Big 3 Upgrade?

[SHOgun_it]

I consider myself a big car audio ******. Along with the title, comes the need/want for a great sounding stereo system. I already have installed a Pioneer DEH-P6800MP head-unit in the SHO, and have a 800-900 watt (continuous/rms) 4-channel amp on the way for my Christmas present. I will be running my front-stage components off of about 200wrms each side on the front two channels. The rear channels will be bridged, sending a subwoofer about 400-450wrms. I basically have everything all planned out, yet still sketchy on a couple parts. One of these parts being the alternator, and the "Big 3" upgrade.

I'm not sure if many of you are into the car audio thing, or know what the "Big 3" is. The "Big 3" is the replacement of the following wires:

1) Alternator positive to battery positive(w/ a fuse)
2) Battery negative to chassis
3) Chassis ground to engine block ground

First, I'm wondering if anybody else here has done this. I know that the alternator is a bitch to replace, you have to drop the subframe and everything..... Would this be a problem when replacing these three cables? Also, would anybody be able to tell me where each cable is? Thanks in advance.

Beck

 

[SHOZ123]

I did it on my car this summer. The OEM wiring is #6. Going to #4 is more than enough. The starter will take ~150 A continous to turn the motor over (using synthetic oil). It initially peaks ~450A or so.

FWIW when considering the electrical needs of your audio forget watts and talk input amps. Look at the fuses to get an idea. They should be ~125-150% of peak load.

You really don't need to "drop" the subframe. But I lower one side as it is very easy to do and makes the job a bit easier. You will learn to curse Ford engineers when you do this though.

 

[SHOgun_it]

I did it on my car this summer. The OEM wiring is #6. Going to #4 is more than enough. The starter will take ~150 A continous to turn the motor over (using synthetic oil). It initially peaks ~450A or so.

FWIW when considering the electrical needs of your audio forget watts and talk input amps. Look at the fuses to get an idea. They should be ~125-150% of peak load.

You really don't need to "drop" the subframe. But I lower one side as it is very easy to do and makes the job a bit easier. You will learn to curse Ford engineers when you do this though.

I'm not sure what you mean or are referring to with the 150 A to turn the motor over. But anyways, the amplifier fuse rating is 120 amps. I am going to re-wire it with 1/0 gauge, because I will most likely be going bigger in the future. Do you have any pictures labeling which wire is which?

 

[SHOZ123]

I was using the 150A starter anology to try and show that the OEM wire is designed for that much.

The "Big 3" Gen 3 wiring is simple.

1. Alternator to MEGA fuse

2. Battery to MEGA fuse.

3. Battery to starter.

In your case the two cables going to the MEGA fuse would what needs upgrading.

1/0 is way over **** and would be difficult to get attached to the alternator.

 

[JSIL1]

I did what the upgraded wiring and did not have to loosen the subframe at all.

However, i did have to alter one of the lugs I used so that it would fit the alternator. I am using 2 gauge welding wire.

Here is the old alternator wire (with the loom still on it).

New Wire

I had to notch one of the copper lugs in order to get the lug to fit snuggly on the alternator

Here is the stock battery to starter to mega fuse wire.

New Wire

Side by Side

The Battery is run to the starter.

EDIT: Oh Yeah the red stuff is liquid electrical tape. WORKS AWESOME

 

[SHOgun_it]

I was using the 150A starter anology to try and show that the OEM wire is designed for that much.

The "Big 3" Gen 3 wiring is simple.

1. Alternator to MEGA fuse

2. Battery to MEGA fuse.

3. Battery to starter.

In your case the two cables going to the MEGA fuse would what needs upgrading.

1/0 is way over **** and would be difficult to get attached to the alternator.

Lol, sorry for asking yet another question... But, where would those be in the engine bay? Are they labeled or is there a site or something that will show me where to look and what ones to change?

 

[SHOZ123]

Well if you can see the battery then you can figure it all out.

 

[SHOgun_it]

Well if you can see the battery then you can figure it all out.

Alright, I figured I would be able to. Just looking for some reassurance. Thanks for all the help.

Beck

 

[SHOZ123]

It's elementary my dear Watson......:laugh_ti: