BF Goodrich Scorcher T/A...

[wuzzzer]

245/45/17 in yellow. Anyone with opinions on these?...

------------------
Mark
'97 Pacific Green
http://www.picturetrail.com/wuzzzer
Roush Sport Lowering Springs
Porterized
K&N Filtercharger
Rhino mufflers (909 series)
17" Team Loco #150 wheels/Dunlop SP Sport 4000 tires (spring/summer/fall)
Bridgestone Blizzaks (winter)

 

[stephen newberg]

Yellow tires? I've heard of when you get lemons, making lemonade, but this seems extreme...

pax, smn

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'98, Black
Mod.Porter intake, K&N panel, SARC cutout switch, 4 gauge instrumentation cluster, 23mm rear swaybar, 225x55x16 Bridgestone Blizzaks (its winter now )

 

[fredhurderjr]

On your car the yellow stripes are the best color choice, I think. I was looking at the blue ones for Jezzie, until I saw they weren't Z rated.

------------------
White 95 SHO MTX
"Jezebel"

Teases me with occasional great runs in between break-downs.
3.2L SHO Shop Long Block
9psi Vortech S-Trim Supercharger
Eibachs, Tokicos, 96 Brakes, SFCs, STBs
PP Y-Pipe, Custom Stainless Cat-back, Bullets
http://members.home.com/fhurderjr/sho.htm

Mocha 91 SHO
"Monique"

Hi-Revs Jr. Clutch
Dynomax Cat-Back
"The Reliable Winter Car"

 

[SHOFF]

These are one the worst handleing tires made i seen a guy at the track destroy a set of these in a couple of laps the compound is way too soft

 

[RStalveyARFF]

I also believe they are not designed to carry a car of our weight. They are mostly made for sport compacts. We have one set of them at work, and I don't think I'll ever see them leave the warehouse. They look nice, but that's the only nice thing about them. How can a solid strip around the tire aid handling? It can't, plain and simple. It adds a weak spot to the tread.

 

[jdh00]

Plus having colored rubber is pointless, in my opinion.

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92MTX, Dynomax exhaust, Coneless, Conical filter, 17x9" Cobra R's, 235/45/17 Dunlops/Pirellis

 

[RStalveyARFF]

amen to that

 

[wuzzzer]

While I appreciate everyone's viewpoints on the Scorcher tires, here's some facts:

The stock Goodyear tires in 225/55ZR16 size have a maximum load rating of 1477lbs, UTQG treadwear rating of 260.

The BF Goodrich Scorcher T/A in 245/45HR17 size have a maximum load rating of 1521lbs, UTQG treadwear rating of 300.

And, every review that people wrote on the tires at Tire Rack had something positive to say about them, especially about their dry handling.

Having colored rubber may be "pointless" to some, but so is modifying a "Taurus" to others.

 

[SCOTTDW]

Wuzzer, I do not know anything about the Scorchers but the Goodrich KDWS G-Force has proven its worth to me in the last month in snow and rain. On dry pavement it will take you to Nirvana.

Scott
98SF
K&N Panel
Magnaflows 3"tips
42K

 

[SCOTTDW]

Sorry Wuzzzer, when I said wuzzer I meant wuzzzer.
Scott
98SF
K&N Panel
Magnaflows 3 "tips
42 K

 

[i420kidd]

sorry but u r going from a Z rated tire that the factory see's fit to strap on...to an H rated tire??????????........not the sharpest tool in the shed are we....nuff said!!!!!

 

[SCOTTDW]

Actually H, V or Z will work just fine in general. They are all ultra high performance tire ratings and will work well on the 3rd gen SHO. Only reason for the Z rating is the 144 mph top end If you don't autocross or cruise at 140ish you could get by with an H rated tire and never know the difference. I had a 91 Mustang 5.0 that had Z-rated very expensive tires and never,ever pushed the limit of the 149mph tire.

Scott
98SF
K&N Panel
Magnaflows 3"tips
42K

 

[stephen newberg]

Scott is correct. The letter rating for your tire is its constant use speed rating. A 'Z' rated tire is designed for use at constant speeds over a certain number. An 'H' rated at a certain slighly lower number, etc. The main factor involved is the ability of the rubber to disperse heat, since built up high heat loads over time tend to cause separation of the laminates in the tire.

Since no one in North America, and pretty much no one in Europe either, ever drives at the constant speed for which a 'Z' rated tire is designed, they are a bit of overkill, and as much a marketing tactic as an actual need. An 'H' rated tire or even lower, depending on your personal driving habits, is really all anyone over here needs from an engineering standpoint. Past that we are into appearances.

Oh, and those treadwear numbers and such, they are like the Transport department gase consumption numbers pasted in the windows of new cars. They are a general judgement from an ideal test bed. If they are within 10% of each other, you are in the range of error. Which is true for the top 3 speed ratings in relation to each other also, if I remember right.

Happy new year everyone.

pax, smn

------------------
'98, Black
Mod.Porter intake, K&N panel, SARC cutout switch, 4 gauge instrumentation cluster, 23mm rear swaybar, 225x55x16 Bridgestone Blizzaks (its winter now )

 

[[email protected]]

Originally posted by SHO91MTX:
I also believe they are not designed to carry a car of our weight. They are mostly made for sport compacts. We have one set of them at work, and I don't think I'll ever see them leave the warehouse. They look nice, but that's the only nice thing about them. How can a solid strip around the tire aid handling? It can't, plain and simple. It adds a weak spot to the tread.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but solid (read: lack of tread grooves) is better for 100% dry handling, correct? The reason you don't buy slicks for your car is that it sees all kinds of weather.

Other than the fact that I too don't really want to buy an H-rated tire (whether or not I'd actually need a Z-rated), that looks like a pretty agressive tread design, and looks like it would get really good dry traction.

For wet traction, well, it's got several canals in it, and grooving that should/would throw the water out the sides.

So...I wouldn't neccessarily call that a weak tire.

Wuzzer: it's too bad about these tires, though...BF Goodrich (well, Michelin, since they own the BF Goodrich tire brandname) used to offer "custom" tires.

You could color any of the 5 ribs darn near any color. They had purple, pink, orange, light green, dark green, etc.

 

[gosho89]

Wuzzzer,

I was at the tire store saturday when there sat a set of 235/45/18 blue scortchers, the customer had suffered a blown out within 6 hours of taking delivery of his car. The side wall had blown out from some road hazard (pothole etc...) Tire store was scratching there heads, they had rarely seen such damage from that kind of hazard. The wheels were also brand new and didn't have a scratch or dent. Personal I got to see the side wall cross-section and was not very impressed with the construction. Color is maybe a novilty to sell tires, but make sure the tire is a good quality product first.


------------------
Kerry T
1989 Current Red
96 Brk Upgrade, SFC and Solid Bushings, Konis / Eibachs, H-brace, SVO Rod Shifter, P/P Y-pipe, Dynomax Catback, Gen 3 Chrome Wheels,
225x55x16 RE730 Bridgestones
www.shoacop.com/kerrypage.htm

 

[Emerald94]

I personally would not go lower than an "H" rated tire. Usually, the higher the speed rating, the stiffer the side walls. It makes quite a difference in the handling of the car. I am currently running my S-rated snow tires and I can tell you that when I give a sharp "yank" at the steering wheel the car responds somewhat like "..uuhh? you talkin' to me?".
'94 MTX

Originally posted by stephen newberg:
Scott is correct. The letter rating for your tire is its constant use speed rating. A 'Z' rated tire is designed for use at constant speeds over a certain number. An 'H' rated at a certain slighly lower number, etc. The main factor involved is the ability of the rubber to disperse heat, since built up high heat loads over time tend to cause separation of the laminates in the tire.

Since no one in North America, and pretty much no one in Europe either, ever drives at the constant speed for which a 'Z' rated tire is designed, they are a bit of overkill, and as much a marketing tactic as an actual need. An 'H' rated tire or even lower, depending on your personal driving habits, is really all anyone over here needs from an engineering standpoint. Past that we are into appearances.

Oh, and those treadwear numbers and such, they are like the Transport department gase consumption numbers pasted in the windows of new cars. They are a general judgement from an ideal test bed. If they are within 10% of each other, you are in the range of error. Which is true for the top 3 speed ratings in relation to each other also, if I remember right.

Happy new year everyone.

pax, smn

 

[stephen newberg]

"Correct me if I'm wrong here, but solid (read: lack of tread grooves) is better for 100% dry handling, correct?"

Actually, that is not correct. A solid, flat surface such as you are talking about in slicks gives very high adhesion so long as no side forces are acting on the tire. That is, great transfer in a straight line or on a constant radius. Some grooving is very useful for handling if these conditions are not constant. That is why you never see slicks on a road race car, even if the weather is going to be perfect.

" Usually, the higher the speed rating, the stiffer the side walls."

Usually yes, but not always so. It is, however, virtually always true that the lower the profile, the stiffer the sidewalls. So if you are after a very stiff wall, cut down the sidewall height.

pax, smn

------------------
'98, Black
Mod.Porter intake, K&N panel, SARC cutout switch, 4 gauge instrumentation cluster, 23mm rear swaybar, 225x55x16 Bridgestone Blizzaks (its winter now )