Battery relocation, HELP!

[quadmasta]

Okay guys, I've decided I'm relocating my battery to my trunk. I've pretty much figured out that the heavy gauge wire goes from the battery post to the starter solenoid (why the **** did they put it on the opposite side of the bay from the battery?) and the same thing with the heavy gauge wire on the neg terminal. Am I right about that?

What are the two smaller gauge wires to? I believe the smaller one on the neg terminal just goes to the fender.

Help!

 

[SHOZ123]

The easiest way to relocate the battery and make your connections is to keep the OEM cables and use them to run the new wries to.

You do not need to run a large cable back for the ground. I don't use any but some say a small one is needed on the EEC-IV engines. I just grounded the negative cable to the body in the engine compartment. Be sure to get a good ground in the trunk. If you want, after getting the good ground and securing you negative battery cable there, use an Ohm meter to see what the resistance is between the new ground wire and the old. Should be less than a 1/2 ohm.

<small>[ October 12, 2003, 08:14 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[Shoaz]

The hardest thing to take care of when relocating a battery is isolating the cabin from the gasses. The firewall separates the cabin from the engine compartment, but air can flow pretty easily through the rear seat back into the trunk (and back). There are several ways to handle this, the most popular seem to be sealed battery boxes that vent through the bottom of the trunk, and another being a piece of sheetmetal riveted across the braces behind the seat back. Personally, I think it's not too **** to do both. wink

 

[quadmasta]

what's the smaller wire for????

 

[SHOZ123]

Most modern batteries produce very little gas as long as they aren't over charged. The addition of water to the battery is directly proportional to the amount of gas produced. Of course a sealed Odyssey battery is the best anyway.

The smaller wire is a ground directly from the battery to the PCM.

Be sure to use a fuse on the POS wire, directly after the battery. 20' of unprotected wire that won't burn into easily is a considerable hazard. I got a 250A fuse and holder at WayTec Wire for ~$25.00

<small>[ October 13, 2003, 10:25 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[quadmasta]

PCM? Pulse Control Modulation?

I know about fusing power wire. I had a "small" electrical fire in my last car with zero gauge wire. scary!

 

[AutoSHO]

quadmasta:
PCM? Pulse Control Modulation?

I know about fusing power wire. I had a "small" electrical fire in my last car with zero gauge wire. scary!

Powertrain Control Module, or the Engine Computer.

 

[quadmasta]

oh, you mean ECM (my term, Engine Control Module). So if I just extend this wire over to the solenoid, I should be okay?

 

[quadmasta]

yes/no????? I'm plannin on doin this tomorrow. Help me please!

 

[SHOZ123]

It is a small black ground wire. DO NOT connect it to the solenoid.

 

[quadmasta]

Okay guys, here's the verdict. In Gen I cars, there are 4 OEM wires that go to the battery. 2 per terminal:

NEG TERMINAL
skinny black wire: a small ground wire that loops up to the fender above it(ECM connects DIRECTLY to the bolt that this wire bolts to)

fat black wire: connects to the "front" side of the starter

POS TERMINAL
skinny black wire: I'm not really sure if it's black or it's CV grease all over it, but this wire goes directly to the ECM a la if you don't hook it up, your car won't run
fat red wire: This wire loops up under the subframe and around the engine to the solenoid located on the driver's side of the engine.

If anybody wants, I'll do a complete writeup of what I did.