Ball joint/control arm replacement

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

SHOZ123

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
12,152
Reaction score
673
Location
Illinois
I would look on eBay for a new box of cuss words too.

FWIW the small pitman arm removal tool makes taking the tie rod end off a breeze, leave the castle nut on to provide a grip point on the bottom.
 

Izzmo

SHO Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
1,822
Reaction score
51
Location
Kansas City, KS
So, where can I buy a small pitman tool versus a big one?

So far, O'Reilly's and RockAuto just sell the Pitman Puller.. there are not size differences.

Actually.. I guess O'Reilly offers the "SUPER" Pitman Arm puller.. lol. It's gigantic. Would that be it?
 
Last edited:

Mr Anonymous

Tire Wall
Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
7,317
Reaction score
1,947
Location
St. Louis, MO
No puller needed to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, just hit the eyelet with a 6 lb. sledge a couple of times and it will pop out.

Unless you have some kind of magical powers, the axle HAS to come out of the hub in order to R&R the ball joint. To not do so would be like trying to replace your brake rotors without removing the wheels. :nut:
 

SHOZ123

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
12,152
Reaction score
673
Location
Illinois
I agree no puller is needed for the tie rod end. But if you have one it is so easy.

It's like the difference between using the cube for the rear calipers or using a real real disc brake tool.
 
Last edited:

Mr Anonymous

Tire Wall
Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
7,317
Reaction score
1,947
Location
St. Louis, MO
I agree no puller is needed for the tie rod end. But if you have one it is so easy.

It's like the difference between using the cube for the rear calipers or using a real real disc brake tool.
How so? I find it to be exactly the opposite, with a puller being a more involved and much slower process.

I can pop both tie rod ends out of the knuckle in less than 30 seconds total with a hammer. Heck, I probably spend more time walking from one side of the car to the other than actually swinging the hammer. Can't see it being much easier than that.
 

Izzmo

SHO Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
1,822
Reaction score
51
Location
Kansas City, KS
Well, nonetheless, I rented the tie-rod puller and the arm puller as well as the ball joint press and set.
 

Izzmo

SHO Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
1,822
Reaction score
51
Location
Kansas City, KS
Alright...... so I do not have the c-clip...

I have tried everything suggested and the damn ball joint is NOT coming out of there.. in fact.. it looks like (from the bottom) it is welded in there (it is not of course)

So.. should I just buy a new control arm?
 

wymjym

New Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
193
Reaction score
5
Location
near Austin Texas
buy it new if you have the money, or can't replace the old one.

If you are trying to press it out using a hand ratchet...it is a tough nut to crack, if you have an impact gun, raaaap, raaaaaap and its out.
good luck.
wj
 

Izzmo

SHO Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
1,822
Reaction score
51
Location
Kansas City, KS
I have a 760 ft/lb torqe impact wrench and the pitman tool is bending down and tearing off a layer of metal on the control arm...

So... yeah I'm pretty sure the damn thing isn't coming out.
 

Izzmo

SHO Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
1,822
Reaction score
51
Location
Kansas City, KS
Well, I decided to give up on replacing the ball joints.

For is going to do it for a little over $500.. too much ******** for me.

I did every damn trick I know to get that damn thing to pop off and it wouldn't budge! So, until next time..
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
107,080
Messages
1,181,220
Members
16,144
Latest member
14blkbeauty

Members online

Back
Top