Ball joint/control arm replacement

[Izzmo]

I didn't find much information on a search for it, but I just need a few quick explanations.

1. Any special tools you need to take it out?
2. Do I need to replace the ball joint and control arm together, or just the ball joints?
3. Anything specific you all have ran into trying to replace them?

Thanks all. I went in to get an alignment done and they told me it was really loose on both sides and wanted $600+ to replace it, and I was like.. **** no.

Thanks.

 

[rubydist]

You need a good ball joint fork, and a rather large hammer, in my experience.....

I would just replace the lca w/ the ball joint, that way you get new control arm bushings too. Other than being somewhat challenging to get the ball joint to release, the only other challenge was getting the front bolt back into the bushing on the lca, since the bushing is deflected.....

The arms are less than $100 each at rockauto (with ball joints and bushings) and it takes a couple hours or so per side (depends on how long you fight rusty fasteners, etc).

 

[Izzmo]

Cool, thanks for the info, guess I'll do that then. Too bad the control arm itself adds like $50 to the price.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

Gen III, just the ball joint.

 

[hawkeye18]

Add some MAPP gas, and you should be about set.

 

[tardboy21]

I'm actually looking into new front ball joints in the near future myself. I was able to find both the ball joint and lca bushings at Advanced and AutoZone.
Have to fix my free-flow exhaust problem on my 92 before I get to this task though.

 

[Izzmo]

Here's a question:

Is there really a difference between the Raybestos Service grade and professional grade? I'm looking at both images and they look damn near the same. (Ball joint btw)

Also, would you recommend the MOOG or the Raybestos ball joint? (Raybesto's is about $10 cheaper for the ball joint)

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You need a heavy duty pitman arm puller, a ball joint press kit, and a 30mm axle socket.

Do not use a pickle fork or a hammer to get the ball joint out of the a-arm.

Do yourself a favor and skip the aftermarket ball joints and just go buy them at your Ford dealer. The price is comparable, and they fit a lot better. Seen countless aftermarket ones loosen up in the knuckle eyelet after a few days.

 

[Brydakidz]

Don't forget you'll need this too.

But seriously, I did the ball joints on my car short while ago, and it was a real pain. So you may need some refreshment.

 

[2 4shofast]

I agree with Mr. A, I would go with OEM if it where me...

 

[Izzmo]

damn, surprising that rockauto does not offer motorcraft replacement part for this. Thanks for the suggestions guys

 

[tardboy21]

Advanced shows an OEM joint on their site for $26. Not sure if it is an actual motorcraft part though.

 

[SHOZ123]

Some of the early Taursus do not have a locking clip that holds the ball joint in the control arm, the later ones do.

 

[Izzmo]

Well, I just called up Ford and they have two in stock for me.. $50 a pop, not too bad I guess.

Hey Paul, what do you mean by that? I understand you, but do you mean that it will keep me from installing the ball joint and I would have to get a brand new control arm?

 

[SHOZ123]

All I can say is my original ones were just pressed in and not meant to be replaced. It was quite the job to take them out. I did not replace them. The replacement knuckles I got that have the ball joint in them already have a circlip that on top of the ball joint.

 

[SuperHO]

i was told more than once that to get the ball joint removal tool in there, you gotta pretty much remove the hub/front suspension assembly...true?

 

[SHOZ123]

AutoZone now carries a ball joint removal tool with specific hardware for the G3+ Taurus. Taking the knuckle off is fairly easy. I take axle and all out after popping the ball joint loose from the control arm. Then put the hub in a vise to carefully tap the axle out.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

There is no need to remove the knuckle from the car. You just need to jack the car up high enough to be able to fit the ball joint press in there while getting a wrench (or impact) on it. There is also no need to remove the hub or anything else. Just remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, disconnect the tie rod end, pop the ball joint out of the a-arm with the pitman arm puller, use a pry bar to lower the a-arm enough to get the ball joint stud free, and pull the knuckle outward enough to get the axle out of the hub (may have to tap the axle clear with a mallet or air hammer).

After you get the axle out of the hub, remove the c-clip and use the ball joint press to press out the old ball joint (it will get it out about 80% of the way -- a couple whacks with a mallet will finish the removal) and then press in the new one.

 

[SHOZ123]

Just be sure your car either does or does not have the clip on top.

 

[Izzmo]

Well, again, I just need to get to the ball joint. I don't really think I would have to completely remove the hub assembly would I? If so, then be it as it may and I will proceed, but I'm getting confused will all the suggestions around here

Is removing the tie rod end necessary? If I remove the tie rod end, wouldn't it make since to remove the axle as well?

As far as the ball-joint itself.. Ford is selling them for $79.99 A PIECE! Ridiculous if you ask me, but I got them to come down to $49.99 somehow...

Then bolts for it were another $8 a pop. So, this is pretty much coming out to be an expensive fix.

There is not c-clip from what I can see though on the part (ball-joint) they gave me. I know Paul was saying that the early years did not have it?

But anyways, so the tools I will need are these corrrect?

1. Heavy duty Pitman Arm Puller
2. Tie rod tool?? (Not sure if you need this or not to to d/c the end)
3. ball joint press kit
4. Crow bar
5. 30mm axle socket? (Not sure yet if I need to pull out the axle..)

Anything else?