B-12 Chemtool in the Crankcase?

[philjw90SHO]

I am just about to start the 60k and I have a can of B-12 Chemtool to put in the crankcase. It says on the bottle to put it in when the motor is cool, let it idle for 3-5 minutes and then drain it immediatly.

My question is do I have to fill it up right away?Because I'm going to replace all the gaskets and the front main oil seal do I don't want to fill it with my Castrol GTX 10w-30 until I have to.

Can I wait until I'm ready or should I fill it up right away. The only reason I'm using B-12 is to loosen all the deposits from the craptastic oil that the previous owner used. Thanks in advanced.

 

[Yamaha V6]

I LOOOOOOOOVE this stuff, but I'm too afraid to use it in the crankcase myself. I once used Kerosene to loosen the crud in my old Rocket 350 successfully, but B-12... that scares me (even though it says you can).

 

[93nighthawk]

Why do you think that you need to dump it in your crank case? It only has 100Kmi on it. The downside of that is that you will strip bearings/rings of badly needed oil for a little bit that might cause more disasterous consequences compared to just changing the oil regularily. I just use the B-12 to clean the intake and dump in the fuel tank.

Eric

p.s. Sorry that I did not get back to your other post.

 

[sdpatt]

Putting anything in the crankcase that reduces the lubrication properties of the oil is a risk and definitely not advised.

<small>[ December 12, 2002, 09:23 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[Dave Ladely]

Just change the oil, use a full or blended synthetic as they clean very well. IF you really want a clean engine, add a bypass filter setup like Amsoil offers; that's what I have. DON'T use solvents in the crankcase!!!

 

[rangerj]

Quality oils have detergents in them, and there is no need to put anything but oil in the crankcase. Use a quality oil and change it regularly, that is every 3000 miles.

Listen to the folks above, and do NOT put a solvent in the crankcase.

When you change oil it should be near operating temperature. This way the oil flows better, and the "crap" is mixed in with it and not settled.

Before you start on the 60K, run the engine up to operating temperature, let cool down for a few minutes, then remove the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain until you finish the 60K and are ready to add fresh oil. Just let it drip. (into a container!)

While you are doing the valve lash adjustments be sure to cover the oil return holes in the bottom corners of the heads (a ball of aluminum foil). Cover the intake ports in the heads also. (wide masking tape e.g. "painters tape")

Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[Bizzy]

If anything try a bottle of Auto-RX. I used it in both my 95 Taurus SE (vlucan) and my 94 SHO. The SE has 110k miles on it when I did the treatment as per the directions with one little change. The directions are on Auto-RX Application Guide and what I did after the inital 500 miles is to not change the oil but just change the filter and add a qt of fresh oil (Mobil Drive clean I think) then drove another 500 or so miles, then changed over to AMSoil 0w-30. When I did that on my 95 SE, I saw a 3-4mpg gain in my weekly commute, I attribute that to the cleaning properties of the Auto-RX, and a little from the synthetic oil.

The guy that sells the stuff offers a money back deal if you don't think it did anything. All I can say is that after driving 500 miles, then another 500 my oils was as black as if I had gone say 6000. Actually I think that my oil was black at the 500mile mark, and my little extra driving only allowed the stuff to work on my engine a little more. I was floored by the noticable increase in power and MPG.

On my SHO, I did the same but only left it in the engine for 500 miles. I wish I had pulled my fron valve cover off before I did this. If you looked into my oil filler hole at the top of the heads there was a faint brown layer of varnish in there, very faint. After doing that treatment of auto-rx and then going to the AMSoil 0W-30 it is perfectly clean, like gleaming clean. Actually when Mark N. looked at my car that was one of the things he looked at right before he said it looked very clean. I took that to be a good sign comming from someone like him.

This auto-rx stuff mixes in with the oil, and isn't a harsh solvent like throwing B12 in with your oil. Also the inventor says that it is formulated to work with regular dino oil, not synthetic, as it won't blend with the synthetic.

I'f your just about to do your 60k give this stuff a shot. If you're not happy he'll refund your money. Plus if you wanted to get really ambitious you could pull your fron valve cover before, take a picture, then drive the 500 miles (i wouldn't think any leakage of reusing the old seals would be that bad for 500 miles) then do your 60k and take a pic under the front cover after. I'll bet it will be much cleaner. The key thing I think with this stuff is a new high efficency oil filter like a M1-301 to catch all the crap.

 

[olympic]

Oil formulated for diesel engines has high amounts of detergents and will clean your engine right out. No harm should come if you use this for 1 oil change.

 

[shojuan]

olympic:
Oil formulated for diesel engines has high amounts of detergents and will clean your engine right out. No harm should come if you use this for 1 oil change.

One thing to watch out for here is if you have worn rings or valve stem seals the extra detergents will increase the propensity for detonation. This is why a lot of racing oils don't have any detergents. I'm not saying to avoid the oils formulated for diesels, just that if you try them and then you start getting some mystery pinging that wasn't there before, it is likely the oil.

Rick

 

[Lotusrk]

B-12 for crankcase flush

I've been a shop owner for decades and use Berryman's as a crankcase flush. Some really old engines use a (wax covered) rope for the rear main seal. These are the only engines I do not use Berryman's in as it will cause it to wash off the wax and increase leaks. It does a great job cleaning varnish and sludge off the internals, frees up sticky rings. Just before an oil change add the Berryman's slowly to a running warm engine and then let it fast idle for 15 to 30 minutes (do not drive). Then drain and change oil & filter. It also makes hard seals soft again, stopping most oil leaks. The wife's Hionda is getting the flush as we speak (250,000 miles with no major repairs).

 

[Off Road SHO]

And you sir are now the record holder for the oldest post EVER brought back from the dead. I think you get some kind of gold or silver star to stick on your three ring binder or something like that. Just messin with ya.

Tom