Audio Question - Sony system

[Stickboy46]

I just picked up a 2014 SHO with the Sony sound system & the Sync Touch system. How hard is it to add an external amp and sub to this system. I'm not looking to build a crazy audio system. Just a single 10 or 12 sub for a little extra oomph. Probably nothing more than 250-500 watt. I've done installs plenty of times before, but not with a system as integrated as this. Its a pretty safe guess to assume that there are no preouts on this system, so has anyone had success with using a line-level converter to tap into the rear speakers?

Just curious how everyone has done this.

 

[SilverSH0]

I've also been toying with the idea of adding a sub to my system (since I have speakers sitting all over my house). I personally would go line level converter to get signal to the subs. Then I would put a high pass filter (i.e. capacitor) on the 6x9s to keep the sub lows out of them and avoid over driving the 6x9's.

 

[Orguss]

Not hard at all. There are outputs on the Sony amp, which resides on the driver side in the trunk. I'm using a 250W Rockford Fosgate Punch amp with a 12" Orion sub in a custom built enclosure and it's plenty loud. I took out the 4" rear center surround speaker to act as a passthrough into the cabin, but otherwise the rest of the system remains stock.

 

[Stickboy46]

Not hard at all. There are outputs on the Sony amp, which resides on the driver side in the trunk. I'm using a 250W Rockford Fosgate Punch amp with a 12" Orion sub in a custom built enclosure and it's plenty loud.

Are those actual preamp outputs? (I haven't looked yet). Or do they require some sort of line level converter? Where is it located in the drivers side? Just behind the carpet?

 

[Orguss]

They're actual pre-outs. And it's located behind the carpet.

 

[Stickboy46]

They're actual pre-outs. And it's located behind the carpet.

That's pretty amazing ... and convenient. I'll take a look. Thanks for the help.

 

[Stickboy46]

So I guess I had a different thought on what a "pre-out" was. I was thinking straight RCA connection . That's not there lol. So what wires should be used off of that amp with an LC2I? I'll have that coming in tomorrow and am going to try to install my amp/Sub

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Mine was a little pricey but I did it. Kicker AMP and 6.5 Rear Deck SUBS, Kenwood Door speakers and Kicker centers front and rear,

 

[Stickboy46]

Mine was a little pricey but I did it. Kicker AMP and 6.5 Rear Deck SUBS, Kenwood Door speakers and Kicker centers front and rear,

Can you answer my question about what wires you tapped into for your signal for your amp?

 

[Stickboy46]

I was planning on trying to install this tonight. Does anyone have any insight?

 

[ysoloud]

Just use a line level adapter, you can get the wires at the back speakers ( not the center one ).

 

[Stickboy46]

Just use a line level adapter, you can get the wires at the back speakers ( not the center one ).

Isn't there a way you can tap into the wires BEFORE the amp, that would give a cleaner signal for it? That's kind of where I was going with my question.

 

[ysoloud]

Yes, but to be completely honest I very seriously doubt you will notice any difference in sound quality in the setup your wanting to do! The cars have a great midbass range and if your only adding a sub 250htz and below, it should sound nice!

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Stickboy............its not that I can't answer the question but.....I can't I had mine installed and to be honest haven't peeled back carpet since install. My guess is normal AMP install wiring, my understanding is that the Kicker AMP (5 Channel) four channels are for the doors, and the SUBS are split by the fifth channel.

 

[SilverSH0]

Isn't there a way you can tap into the wires BEFORE the amp, that would give a cleaner signal for it? That's kind of where I was going with my question.

The problem is that you're using the LC2i which is a line level converter. It expects the input to be in the 12V+ range and that's what it's designed to handle. I don't know what this specific system uses before the amp but it's going to be at a preamp level (so sub 5V) and then amplify that signal in the amplifier. Hooking up a converter that expects inputs to be in the 12V range to something that's sub 5V isn't going to give you the output you want.

The most simple way is to splice into your rear speakers and go that route. Even better would then be to add a high pass filter (capacitor) inline with the 6x9 speakers with a cutoff rating at what you're setting your sub cutoff.

 

[Stickboy46]

The problem is that you're using the LC2i which is a line level converter. It expects the input to be in the 12V+ range and that's what it's designed to handle. I don't know what this specific system uses before the amp but it's going to be at a preamp level (so sub 5V) and then amplify that signal in the amplifier. Hooking up a converter that expects inputs to be in the 12V range to something that's sub 5V isn't going to give you the output you want.

The most simple way is to splice into your rear speakers and go that route. Even better would then be to add a high pass filter (capacitor) inline with the 6x9 speakers with a cutoff rating at what you're setting your sub cutoff.

That's a good point. I'll just use the rear speaker input and see how it sounds. unfortunately/fortunately I got my appointment bumped up to get tint done and to get the wheels refinished (previous owner liked to bounce off curbs apparently) to today, so I wont be able to install tonight anways.

 

[Hang10Tony]

I have worked at a car audio shop for about 6 years now and my favorite place to tap for signal (for a sub) is off rear deck speakers, by far the easiest way, and if they are amplified (sho's are) usually have a higher voltage lvl coming into the LOC which in most cases is good (unless this causes to be too loud which with subs usually is never the case and then just turn down gain). Now if going with a 4 channel or anything for mid/ tweet this is a different story for quality purposes but I'm not getting into that right now haha. At the shop we also use a LOC that has a remote out (acc out) that provides a switched 12v when senseing signal from speakers, these are very nice and i recommend using them for this purpose. They are nice because you do not have to go tapping into fuses or other wires for remote turn on wire for your amp and if you tap the rear deck everything is then in the trunk for you except power wire. I'm getting ready to throw a my old JL w3 in mine soon also good luck!

 

[ysoloud]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Rad...ash=item4d3623484a:g:fU4AAOSweW5VGtmC&vxp=mtr

Here you go, a direct connect! Sorry been out of town!

 

[Chris Horner]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Radio-Add-A-Amp-Amplifier-Sub-Interface-Wire-Harness-Inline-Converter-/331620763722?fits=Year:2013|Make:Ford|Model:Taurus|Submodel:SHO|Engine+-+Liter_Display:3.5L&hash=item4d3623484a:g:fU4AAOSweW5VGtmC&vxp=mtr

Here you go, a direct connect! Sorry been out of town!

Those really work good ?

 

[Stickboy46]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Radio-Add-A-Amp-Amplifier-Sub-Interface-Wire-Harness-Inline-Converter-/331620763722?fits=Year:2013|Make:Ford|Model:Taurus|Submodel:SHO|Engine+-+Liter_Display:3.5L&hash=item4d3623484a:g:fU4AAOSweW5VGtmC&vxp=mtr

Here you go, a direct connect! Sorry been out of town!

I actually went with the LC2I. Seems to work well. I managed to install it without cutting or tapping any factory lines in case I wanted to remove it later. I tapped into the rear speaker inputs, but since I replaced the rear 6x9s with aftermarket speakers at the same time, I just tapped into the aftermarket harnesses that I bought from Best Buy. I had to modify the box a bit to get it to fit at the very rear of the trunk since there is that **** right behind the back seat. I think it came out pretty good though.