ATX timing belt

[ISHOU]

Long time reader, first time writer. This is by far the best SHO forum going. Mark Nunnaly's video doesn't show how to set the tension on the timing belt using a hydraulic tensioner tool. This is a required step despite the fact it is a hydraulic tensioner, correct? Is this tool specific to the SHO or can you get one at an auto parts store?

 

[ThrillSHO]

It is a very important required step. It is actually two tools. One is a tensioner compressor, the other is an adapter for your 1/4" drive inch-pound torque wrench used to properly pre-tension. The tools a specific to 93-95 ATX SHO and are available from Ford, SHO Shop and SHONUT. I got mine from Vadim (SHO Shop), but I forget what I paid.

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ThrillSHO Racing
93 ATX SHO
UDPs, LPM, 80mm MAF, K&N w/CAI Snorkle, 8mm Taylor wires, Koni Struts, IPT Coil-overs, Camber plates, Adjustable rear control arms, Touque box brace, Poly bushings, 24mm front SB, 26mm rear SB, Shaved Alum SFB, Full-length SFCs, Front & Rear STBs, SS Y-pipe, Borla Cat-back, TransGo Shift Kit, Relocated battery, Five point harness, Five 2" gauges below the CD player, 225/50s on 16x8s, 96 Brakes
Very Low Very Fast

 

[sdpatt]

I may be missing something here, but how do you maintain the tension on the belt that the tensioner tool establishes after the tool is removed? The only thing that applies pressure to the tensioner pulley's pivot arm is the pressure from the gas piston. That is the piston's only job - to apply the correct tension to the timing belt throughout its life. The tensioner tool is not required. As long as you don't loosen the screw that holds the pulley to the pivot arm, there is nothing to adjust.

After the gas piston is removed from the engine, you compress it with a C-clamp or vise and insert a 1/16" pin or drill bit through the holes to hold the piston shaft retracted. After the belt and the tensioner are reinstalled, all you have to do is remove the pin to let the gas piston apply pressure to the pivot arm to properly tension the belt.

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Scott

1991, 254K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
6 disc CD, Class II hitch, Silver award at SHOklahoma Car Show

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 01-19-2002).]

 

[myshonuff]

i must just be lucky but when i replaced my timing belt i just forced the tensioner back in same on other side to date noooo problem.just had to put alittle pressure on the timing belt thats all.

 

[ManySHOs]

Originally posted by myshonuff:
i must just be lucky but when i replaced my timing belt i just forced the tensioner back in same on other side to date noooo problem.just had to put alittle pressure on the timing belt thats all.

Same here. When I did the one on my old 94 ATX, I didn't use the tool.

Ian
93 mtx

 

[ThrillSHO]

It comes as no surprise to me that I am apparently unlucky. The first time I did it on my 93, I didn't use the tools. I too did the c-clamp method. Not long after that the belt loosened and started jumping teeth ruining the belt. Since then I have used the tools twice, with no more problems.

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."