Goulash
New Member
So anyway, when I did the rod bearing job, I snapped three out of four exhaust manifold studs. One backed out originally, then I was able to back out another stud after the y-pipe was dropped. Finally, I removed the front exhaust manifold to remove the third. The flex pipe corrosion was handled with an angle grinder and a drill, but now with 5/6 y-pipe fasteners accounted for, I'm struggling with this stubborn rear manifold.
It snapped off flush (as it's an Ohio car), and I've been drilling on it, but my original hole wasn't centered, and now I have a nice hole next to where the stud should thread, and I can't get the drill bit on what's left of the stud. I'd like to remove and replace the manifold with a different one with new studs, but it looks intimidating. Has anyone succeeded in removing a rear ATX exhaust manifold while the engine is still in the car? Should I try to remove it from the top or bottom? Someone mentioned undoing the motor and transmission mounts and jacking it up for clearance....just looking for some ideas.
On a side note, would this sort of exhaust leak affect valve lash due to not enough backpressure?
Thanks - Justin
93 ATX
It snapped off flush (as it's an Ohio car), and I've been drilling on it, but my original hole wasn't centered, and now I have a nice hole next to where the stud should thread, and I can't get the drill bit on what's left of the stud. I'd like to remove and replace the manifold with a different one with new studs, but it looks intimidating. Has anyone succeeded in removing a rear ATX exhaust manifold while the engine is still in the car? Should I try to remove it from the top or bottom? Someone mentioned undoing the motor and transmission mounts and jacking it up for clearance....just looking for some ideas.
On a side note, would this sort of exhaust leak affect valve lash due to not enough backpressure?
Thanks - Justin
93 ATX
