atx gear selector stuck in park

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Russell

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Greetings: my 93 atx is locked in park. the unlock button will not engage. What i'm guessing is possible stuck linkage or bad brake switch. The problem right now is trying to get the center console out. There are the obvious screws in the armrest but I hate to pull to ******* the plastic. Anyone pulled one appart before? It does'nt seem to be one of Fords better ideas. First time on the forum. Thanks
 

Bizzy

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Sounds like your BOO switch to me. I've never dealt with it personally so I don't know how it is replaced. Others will chime in I'm sure.
 

SHOtimer

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Your brake switch on the brake pedal (BOO switch) has gone out. So, basically the car doesn't know that you have your foot on the brake, so it doesn't release the lock on the tranny, and your brake lights don't work.

What to do to get it fixed. If you turn your ignition half way to the "on" position, just enough to unlock the steering wheel (but not enough to turn "on" the iginition - it will bypass that switch. Then just move it into neutral, start the car and then your off. Just remember that your brake lights don't work.

Buy a new BOO switch, replace it and your done.

Doug
 

SHOtimer

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You don't need to pull the center console. But, if you want to - not needed, their are two screws under the arm rest, and one under the cup holder. After that it just pulls up. The center console portion with the cubby-bucket thingy doesn't come out.

Doug
 

Russell

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Thanks for the tips on the boo switch. You were right, my brake lights were not working. I also smelled electrical burning and found a blown 15 amp fuse on the flip out fuse box under dash. The two wires coming out were green with red stripe and white with red stripe. The only catch is my only wiring diagram is for a 89 mtx. Anyone with a correct wiring diagram? Thanks again for all the tips
 

etc1006

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Theres downloadable wiring diagrams on here in the How do I section. What # was the fuse location...
 

projectSHO89

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IMMEDIATELY!!!

Open your hood. Locate the master cylinder. Look at the plug that goes into the bottom. Disconnect it and inspect for the presence of brake fluid. If found, you need a new cruise deactivator switch.

The switch leaks brake fluidinto the connector, blows fuse F1 (I/P fusebox), and you loose, among other things, the cruise, the brake lights, and the ATX shift interlock.

Hey, at least the fuse blows on the Taurus. They put a 20A fuse in the F150 line. That lets the connector get hot enough that the truck will spontaneously combust at any time. Subject of a major current recall.

Steve
 

Russell

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Thanks projectSHO89 I did replace the BOO switch, no fix. found the plug for the cruise deactivator sw and yes it has been leaking fluid and is blowing the f1 fuse. So now I'm off to look for a switch. Thanks how do you know this stuff.
 

etc1006

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Steve is that on the new trucks? Man, they can't get away from burning trucks. First the ignition switches on the 80-90s now this...
 

projectSHO89

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etc1006 said:
Steve is that on the new trucks? Man, they can't get away from burning trucks. First the ignition switches on the 80-90s now this...


etc1006: 96-03 give or take a year or so. Also applies to the Expy and Navi. May eventually get widened to include more early-mid 90s model 150s.

Russell, I learn these things because 1) I own these critters and 2) I've made it my mission to know more about them that the guys at the dealership..

Steve
 

Russell

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I have now replaced the cruise de-activation switch under master cylinder and steve- projectSHO89 was right again, there was quite a severe ark on side of switch assy. The ford suppplyed switch comes with a short 6" jumper wire to convert to new connector plug style. The problem is that it is still blowing f1 fuse. So I think the male connector on the car bundle is shot due to overheating and not looking to good. Is there access to a wiring diagram on the SHO forum? thanks.
 

projectSHO89

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Does the fuse still blow if the cruise switch is not connected?

There is still a problem at the switch, the harness, or the cruise module. If it's the harness connector (likely), I'd just cut it out and splice in the replacement harness. There's no concern about wiring polarity in this instance.


Go to the "How do I.." forum. The wiring diagrams are there for download.

Steve
 
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