attaching door lock actuator to solenoid?

[jaded93atx]

Happy holidays everyone,
I woke up x-mas day and went out to find that someone had not so kindly backed into my driver door and creased the skin just under the handle. Such is the price of parking on Chicago streets, and so much for my car alarm.
I was able to pull the panel and pound out most of the dent, enough to allow the handle to function freely and the door to open and close anyways.
The major problem now is that the remote entry wont unlock or lock the door, the solenoid just makes a loud whirling sound. I can lock and unlock the door with a key or by pushing the **** down but the automatic locks wont function. Is there any easy way to reattach the actuator to the solenoid, the linkage point was not visible to me and I have gorrilla mits for hands. I damn near got frostbite and a number of slices across my hands trying to blindly feel out the linkage.
...Thanks In Advance For Any Insight

 

[rangerj]

The actuating rod is most likely still attached to the solenoid. It is attached to the lock mechanism with a retainer. It is the retainer that has most likely broken away from the lock mechanism or the rod has been bent.

With the door panel off the solenoid should be visible. It is to the back of the door and mounted to the inner door frame. The actuating rod is short and is bent into a double "L" shape, that is a 90 degree bend in one direction and another 90 degrees in the opposit direction. The bend fits into a gromet or bushing that also acts as a retainer. I think the bushing is nylon and the force of the hit to your door has broken it. I have seen them break due to age and use.

Then it is also possible the force of the hit damaged the solenoid or its rod. I have never seen one of these rods break. However, there is always a first time! rangerj

 

[jaded93atx]

Big Thanks for that Ranger J, It sure helps to at least know how its supposed to be attached and look, so far I've been lucky enough to get most of the crease out, maybe it will continue and I'll just have to replace the grommet. I've become spoiled using the remote entry, going back to the primative and having to use the key just isnt the same. We get a break up here from the sub zero's tommorrow, I'll let you know how things turn out.

 

[jaded93atx]

Well I pulled the panel and could just barely touch where the solenoid linkage connects. It is buried behind the window rail, and the lock mechanism. I cant see how it can be serviced without taking everything in and on the door apart, and even then it would still be super tight. At this point I don't see the point and will just use the key to lock up. Even if I was able to get it to function the door still looks like garbage. In the long run it might be best to search out a new door at the boneyard. Bummer
Thanks for your time and advice Ranger

 

[rangerj]

Look on the edge of the door for a plug near the latch. I think there is an access hole for getting at the lock solenoid to latch connection. I did this on a Sable about 3 months ago, that is replaced the connecting grommit ( a nylon piece that holds the connecting rod to the latch lever. I forgot to mention this before. I'm not sure it is the same for the Taurus as I've never looked at my own 15 year old Taurus for this. rangerj

 

[jaded93atx]

No such luck, although if I keep the door (the way people drive around here makes me hesitant to invest in cosmetics) cutting a hole with a hole saw in the edge of the door right there seems like the answer for easier access.

 

[rangerj]

From what I remember about living in Chicago, people park by "ear". Have a cold Old Style and ride out the winter. You can fix the door in the spring.
rangerj

 

[jaded93atx]

LOL, Sounds like a plan
Thanks again
Steve