Anti-Freeze Odor

[Hank F.]

Well, the dreaded smell is assaulting my nostrils! I've seen the post of dash removal, and I'm thinking that not many projects intimidate me, but that job- in the winter- outdoors- has me thinking" time to get out the old 84 Century for the rest of the winter." What I want to know is does anything else cause the odor? I have no other symptoms, and no evidence of leakage of any kind, and no fogging, etc. Plus, when the heater/defroster is in the "ON" position, I have no smell. Only when the heater and fan are "OFF" does the smell intrude. Help! I do not want to drive my wife's Home-Depot mobile for the rest of the winter.

 

[SHOck]

Hmm. That's counter-intuitive, as you should smell coolant anytime the blend door is open to the heater core, and it should stop when you turn off the EATC. I suspect your blend door is not functioning correctly, or being told what to do correctly. That, or the coolant is not leaking into the heater core chamber.

I've got a new core awaiting install, but I do not have fogging or leakage issues. As long as the coolant loss does not overtake the drain tube, you should have no fogging issues. Mine clears haze as normal, but smells right fowl as it does.

Aside from a leaking core, have you attempted to tighten the hoses attached to it in the engine bay? When these start to leak, you can get the same smell.

If you can take the cold, you can bypass the heater core until spring...

 

[Hank F.]

I have been too busy to really give it the once-over. This morning, I tightened all clamps and cleared out what I believe to be the drain hole. I may attempt to put the stuff my Dad used to say was the route of lazy mechanics- Stop Leak- to see if I can get thru the holidays. Any suggestion of a brand that will clog up a leak but not my radiator? This may be premature, as the tightening and clearing may work.

 

[SHOck]

Haven't ever heard of a stop leak type product actually doing what it says and not causing problems. Some will cause damage to the waterpump seals by gumming up there. Radiators often get clogged. Best to wait, IMO.

 

[Hank F.]

You guys are exactly right. I had almost convinced myself that the Clogger would be for the greater good, but I wised up and bypassed the core for the time being. Besides, yesterday set a record at 60 degrees- on the 14th of Dec.? Thanks for adjusting my thinking.

 

[jays350]

I also have a 93, with yamaha motor. I smell ant-freeze and I think my floor is getting wet. BUT my temp gauge does not go past the L. Does not lose water or over heat. And where is the thermostat located, is that a possibility? Any suggestions would be helpful. I have a heated garage so not a problem.

 

[doclees]

If it is not the heater core or other leak you may suspect the t-stat. Have had two go bad slowly causing a backup in the overflow bottle and out. This would get in through any firewall hole such as the heater core drain. This is the type of t-stat that goes bad closed. If it has been running hotter on the temp gauge it may be getting ready to go. Then it over heats and really backs up out of the bottle. Mine caused the same slight symptoms of heater core without the drip to the floor.
Now don't stress the heater core change. Can be done in about 5 hours at 34 degrees in the dark. I bet I can do it again in less than 4 hours.

 

[Hank F.]

Judging from what I saw on the core change sticky- You are the MAN! I cannot see myself changing that core in less than two days of 80degree weather.

 

[doclees]

Really drclements is the man. Do a search on him for more info on the down and dirty heater core change. Use mechanics gloves! Sheet metal edges. The toughest part is the uncertainty of pulling on plastic parts that you are not sure if they snap in or have a hidden screw. I would hold up 20 min on a part that I couldn't tell searching for a screw. But again if you are not getting any drip inside I would check all connections first. Second I would run it for about 20 min and check if the overflow bottle looks above the hot fill mark. If it does I would change the t-stat. So much easier than a heater core. If the smell goes away in a couple of weeks your good for now. If you have lots of miles on you sho and don't know if the core has ever been changed set some weekend aside in the summer.