Alternator Probs....

[BioFUSION]

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[93rev2sev]

You need an alternator.

There is a wire that goes into the harness and just dead ends. That's probably what you have there. I think it is a radio frequency thing-a-ma-bob.

 

[hawkeye18]

That black wire goes absolutely nowhere. I really have no idea why Ford put it in there. Seems kinda ********. Maybe they didn't want to risk water getting through the open hole in the connector? Of course, they could've just used a two wire plug and alternator but then that would cost extra money... *sigh*

Oh, and one of the diodes in your diode pack went out. If you rev the engine high enough, it causes an avalanche in the diode and it conducts, letting the light go out. You need to get your alternator rebuilt (the diodes are pretty easy to replace if you have the correct tools). This will cost much less than a new alternator, which probably won't last very long either.

 

[hawkeye18]

battery could have shorted a cell... get the whole charging system checked at AAP.

 

[shoon]

I'm willing to bet money that the one wire that has its own gray connector is whats causing the problem. (not the 3 pin connector.. the 1 pin connector)

I had a similar problem.. took the alt out to work on the AC, and battery light came on when I put it back together. The connector gets corroded, and when u disturb it, it will become a problem. Pull it out and scrape it with a sharp pointy pic then plug it back in and see if that solves your problem. Just take your time with it and do a good job, u have to scrape it quite a bit. Slap some dielectric grease on it too and bend the prong out a bit so it makes good contact and doesn't corrode again.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Just buy a new pigtail from Ford. Should be about $12.

The three conductor connector provides two functions: 1. provides the field voltage via the regulator on the violet/white wire, and 2. lights the dash light when there is an under- or over-voltage condition via the light green/red wire. As mentioned, the black wire does nothing and just terminates in the harness.

The female spade receptacles on the harness connector become fatigued over time and stop making firm contact with the spade terminals on the regulator. That harness and connector move with every engine movement, so over the years they just start to get loose.

Losing field power intermittently will eventually cook the regulator.