Alternator for '89

[Marccus]

I believe I need a new alternator. The original stock alternator still on my '89 has 295,000 miles.

The battery light comes on when the car is idling and below 2500 rpm. Above 2500 rpm the light goes off. But the battery is discharged after using the car and I need to recharge it overnight.

I'm not hearing any noises from the alternator. Would this indicate that the diodes or volatage regulator may be gone or are going since the light goes off over 2500 rpm?

(1) How do I check the voltage and/or current output of the alternator while it is in the car and running? I have a digital voltmeter which can also measure current up to 10 amps.

(2) Can anyone confirm the Ford Part number for the stock alternator in the '89? I came up with:

E9PZ-10346-ERM

(3) I typed in the above part number in www.motorcraft.com for a -

"1989 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0L Fuel Injected V6 Vin:Y"

and the site came back with three choices:

(a) Motorcraft Part #: GLE-327RM [Service Alternator or Generator] 120 Amp. Taurus 3.0L (182) EFI SHO (Alternators)

(b) Motorcraft Part #: GLE-327 [Service Alternator or Generator] 120 Amp. SHO (Alternators)

(c) Motorcraft Part #: GLE-327 [New Alternator] 120 Amp. SHO (Alternators)

Firstly, it specifies 120 amp not 90 amp. Why?

What is the difference between GLE-327RM and GLE-327.?

Can I put the larger 120 amp alternator in my car IF in fact I have a 90 amp original alternator in my '89?

Does "service" alternator mean remanufactured alternator as opposed to the last selection which says "new" alternator?

If an alternator is rebuilt correctly, shouldn't it be just as good as a new one?

I'm thinking of buying a new one even though the remanufactured ones come with a "lifetime" warranty for the following reason.

A friend of mine gave up on a "lifetime" warranty remanufactured alternator (and other lifetime remanufactured parts) from Pep Boys. Autzone, etc., because it crapped out every 6 months. Although he could just bring it back and get another one for free, he was sick and tired of the labor time he spent putting it in.

(5) I used the Ford par # in another website, www.wholesaleparts4u.com, and it came back with:

Electrical - Alternator - Alternator - 3.0 liter
All - 3.0 and 3.8 liter 1988-1989

Nothing else was specified, not "Taurus" or "SHO", etc. It just gave the above two lines when inputting the ford oem part #.

(6) Can one upgrade to a higher amperage output alternator? If so, how high can one go from the stock output? Does one have to worry about increasing the wiring gauge from the alternator to ... wherever it goes (!) and about "frying" certain components in the electrical system?

In other words, "bigger" and "more" are not always better.

Thanks.

 

[Bizzy]

First check your battery terminals and make sure they are tight and clean. Then check the connections on the alternator to make sure they are tight and clean.

It may be that one of the diodes has burned up in the alternator causing you to have some problems, yet allowing the car to still run for a period of time. It's really not good for the battery to be discharged and recharged so often so let's get this thing fixed soon.

You do need a 90 amp alternator and I don't have any helpful info on upgrading to a bigger one, though I think a couple of people have done it. New, you're looking at over $200 for one, about $160 for a refurbed unit. Or...better yet, you could take the alternator out and take it to a shop that rebuilds them. Most of the time that'll run you a fraction of the cost of a reman unit and if done properly will last just as long as a new one would.

 

[greenbeanmtx]

295,000 WOWSERS Well done very well done!

 

[Marccus]

First check your battery terminals and make sure they are tight and clean. Then check the connections on the alternator to make sure they are tight and clean.

Or...better yet, you could take the alternator out and take it to a shop that rebuilds them. Most of the time that'll run you a fraction of the cost of a reman unit and if done properly will last just as long as a new one would.

OK, my battery connections and all electrical connections are immaculate. I've made my own battery cables from 2/0 welding wire and my battery clamps are the 800 amp quick sanp-on type from Sweden which are used on Volvos - easy to clean so no corrosion builds up.

I use Thomas Betts Kopper-Kote on all my connections in the engine compartment and I've sealed all my electrical connectors in the comnpartment with heavy walled adhesive lined heat shrink tubing or self-fusing silicone tape.

If I take the alternator out, can I have a shop refurbish it in one day?

I only have one car - my SHO.

I'm saving for my other car - the Enzo Ferrari and should have enough money in 2,328 years, 9 months, and 13 days.

What type of shop am I looking for that will do this?

Are there any instructions for installing an alternator - I've never dealt with the timing belt. Do I need special tools to reinstall and adjust the tension properly?

Thanks.