Congratulations on getting the Ingalls control arms. I have them, and they are fantastic. The car can be set up so much better with them. There's been a lot written over the years on alignment specs., and if you go digging back, be forewarned; there's at least one article where the negative and positive values are erroneously reversed! Here's a summary of good target numbers; the factory ranges for the Taurus are too sloppy.
Front:
Caster: Should be around +4.0 to +4.5 degrees. Gen 1 cars may have a little less, later cars a little more. Caster may be a tenth or two more positive on the right to compensate for road crown.
Camber: Ideal is -0.5 to -1.0 degrees. Should be balanced side to side. Stock, the fixed camber will be too negative; perhaps as much as -2.0 degrees. The fix is to cut the spot welds that fix the strut plate in place and slot the 3 mounting holes in the strut tower so the top of the strut can be moved outward 1/4" or so. It's easier than it sounds.
Toe: The total toe should be no more negative than -0.1 degrees, with the left and right toe balanced; e.g. right toe -0.05, left toe -0.05. Balance within a tenth is great.
Rear:
Camber -0.3 to -0.7 degrees and balanced side to side
Toe: +0.01 to +0.03 degrees left and right sides. +0.02 to +0.06 total toe. Don't have negative toe values (toe out) in the rear!
Thrust angle: 0.00
Notes:
-The specs are with a the car at curb height with 1/2 tank of fuel. The floor must be level within 1/16".
-The units in the above recommendations are degrees. Don't confuse these values with specs that are given in inches. Most alignment machines are setup to use degree specifications these days.
-For toe the positive numbers represent toe-in and the negative numbers represent toe-out. Don't get mixed up on that. The tire has toe-in when the rear of the tire is spaced farther apart from the vehicle's longitudinal centerline than the front of the tire.
-Toe refers to an individual side and on a properly aligned car is always half the total toe. Properly aligned or not total toe is always equal to left toe plus the right toe. Ex. If you have +0.1" on the left (that's toe-in) and -0.1" toe (that's toe-out) on the right then you'll have zero total toe but with a misaligned steering wheel if it's the front and dogtracking if it's the rear.
-A common trick Ford dealer techs use to compensate for the crown in the road is to run half a degree more caster on the right than on the left. This follows the rule that the car will drift towards the side with the least positive caster. Most roads are crowned to drain water (and cause your car to drift!) towards the right. Ignore the fact that a lot of big freeways have drains in the middle too, most of the crown will be towards the right.
-tie rod jam nuts: 35-46 ft-lb
-front strut top nuts 20-30 ft-lb
-rear control arm inner pivot nuts: 50-68 ft-lb
Do you have it in your dropbox also?
