Alignment and steering problem

[1993BlackSHO]

I just started driving my SHO after an engine and tranny swap. Problem that I first noticed driving it the first time was if I reversed too fast, the passenger front would shake vilently. Forward is fine even under hard acceleration. Took it in for new tires and alignment since I had the subframe out. The guy who did the alignment said he couldnt get the front passenger wheel to come all the way into spec. Close but still a little out. Took it out on the highway today and noticed that if I accelerate hard, it pulls to the right. Under hard braking it pulls to the left. Crusing it stays straight. Put the car on the lift and nothing seems loose, but I know something must be. Any tips on where to look?

 

[1993BlackSHO]

Somebody has to have an idea of how to find out whats wrong. I figure its got to be a ball joint or tie rod but I cant seem to get anything to move by jerking on the wheel. Please any tips would be appreciated. My wife is driving for now as she only needs to make occational trips close to the house while I am at work.

 

[92inPA]

Sounds like you've got a case of rusted out strut rods cups. Read this... Strut Rod Bushing Repair

 

[NJSHO]

Might need to move the subframe around to get the alignment into spec

 

[93rev2sev]

Front suspension diag.

Subframe: Put the car on the ground and place a jack under each corner of the subframe(one at a time). Raise the jack until it makes contact with the subframe. Watch that corner of the subframe closely as you raise the jack one or two more pumps. If there is a subframe bushing issue, you will see the subframe raise before the car raises.

Strut rods: Put the car in reverse. Have a buddy lay underneath the front of the car. Have him look closely at the strut rod to subframe area. Don't start the car. Just rock it back and forth against the engine. You will have to really get it rocking...don't forget...REVERSE...putting the car in a forward gear...especially the higher ones...will be dangerous to anyone under the front of the car.

Ball joints: Use a long prybar(or tire iron) and attempt to pry the control arm away from the knuckle. Be careful not to rip the ball joint boot. There should not be any up and down movement of the control arm, independant of the knuckle.

Wheel bearings: Jack and support vehicle. Remove front tire. Put 2 or 3 of your lugnuts back on and tighten them against the brake rotor. Grab the rotor at the top and bottom and see if there is movement...there should not be...

Tie Rods: Same as wheel bearings, but grab the rotor at 3 and 9 o'clock and watch the "head" of the tie rod end.

 

[1993BlackSHO]

Thanks a lot. That is some really good troubleshooting info. With all that, I should be able to find the problem this weekend.

 

[1993BlackSHO]

OK after doing a good inspection, looks like it was the outer tie rod. It was moving just a bit inside the knukle. So replaced it and it seems to have gotten a little better, but not completely.

So here is my thoery now. I have a bit of play in the steering. Not much, I can only turn the wheel maybe 1/8 in. Ive never had a front wheel drive car with this much power before and front wheel drive cars have torque steer. I am thinking that because of the little bit of play in the wheel combined with the torque steer, that is what I am feeling. Anyone think that could be it?

As far as the braking goes, I think I have an answer there too. I replaced all the brake hoses on the car except the left front because of little or no fluid while tring to bleed. That might be causing it to pull a little while braking.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Did you pull the engine/transmission out-the-top, or drop the subframe?

If the engine/transmission were pulled out-the-top - was the car level during the removal install (ie. on a flat lift or *four* jack stands to level the vehicle).

If the subframe was dropped - how did you re-align the subframe?

I just started driving my SHO after an engine and tranny swap....

 

[1993BlackSHO]

I dripped it out the bottom. To realign, We put in all for bolts but left them a little loose, and used the alignment holes to get it in the right place before tightening them. We had a lift so it was pretty easy to see what we were doing to make sure it was aligned.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

It's possible that the subframe was not aligned [correctly] prior to the previous alignment, and that by aligning it properly, you actually changed the alignment.

During my clutch install ordeal, I had the subframe out twice. The first time Ryan (91 Plus) helped and when I drove the car the alignment was as if the car had been re-aligned (no pull, steering wheel aligned). The second time I aligned the subframe by myself (which is difficult to judge at best since you can only sight one alignment point at a time). I found that aligning either front alignment point allows for movement of the other when it is not held in position. As best as I could tell, the subframe appeared to line-up with the previous frame marks - but while the steering wheel was still correctly aligned, the car did have a very slight left-pull.

When you consider the distance between the four mounting points, any shift left-right and/or forward-aft, is going to have some effect on the camber and toe-in adjustments.