AL SFB Install question.

[khiser0001]

I have seen the various install guides online but was wondering if there is a reason that I could not drive the car up on ramps and then replace the SFB's by using a jack to support the sub-frame in each corner that I am working on.

Does this put stress on the sub-frame?

Thanks in advance,

Kevin

 

[fricker66]

I'm not sure I follow your question. Or at least the manner in which you want to replace the bushings. If the vehicle is driven up on ramps, you'll need to raise the BODY of the car up from the subframe. When we replaced mine, it was very easy to use jackstands to support the vehicle and a jack to lower each side of the subframe that we were working on.

Did I interpret your approach correctly?

<small>[ January 19, 2004, 01:44 PM: Message edited by: fricker66 ]</small>

 

[khiser0001]

Yes, Thanks!

I just never have been comfortable using jackstands. I do not really know why.

Where is the best place to put the jackstands? If you jack the car up at the jack spots then you obviously can not put them there.

Thanks in advance,
Kevin

 

[fricker66]

Use the subframe as the jacking point. Place the stands under the body, loosen all 4 subframe bolts. It's best to remove the front and rear bolts in pairs as you will want to replace both rear and then both front bushings. Use the jack to lower the subframe and gain access to remove the bushings. Then use the jack to raise the subframe back into position and install bolts.

<small>[ January 19, 2004, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: fricker66 ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

If you loosen only one SF bolt at a time you will definitely stress the subframe as only the one corner will drop. As stated before, do the front and rear sets as a pair. On the MTX, be sure to disconnect the rear electrical connector from the DIS module on the intake balance tube. It will strike the roll damper bracket when the rear subframe is dropped. Crunch!

 

[AREA 91]

AH HA!!!! evil_gri !!! So that's how the DIS Module broke!

 

[Bizzy]

yeah the DIS MAY break when doing one corner at a time. depends on you transmission, and caster settings on your car. If your caster is set way forward and you have an ATX chances are it shouldn't hit anything. MTX's are a different story.

I'm a fan of loosening the front 2 bolts a turn or so, then lowering both rears down to rest the SF on a jack. Then I lower the rear end of the SF down just enough to get the bushings in, raise it back up and bolt it into place. Then do fronts in a similar fashion. don't move the jack and then the SF dosen't need to be aligned. Though when adding SFB's that is a good time to make sure it is all aligned right.

 

[sdpatt]

netviper:
yeah the DIS MAY break when doing one corner at a time. depends on you transmission, and caster settings on your car. If your caster is set way forward and you have an ATX chances are it shouldn't hit anything.

Think about that for a little while. How is the caster setting going to have any effect on the distance between the DIS and the non-existent roll damper bracket? The caster or camber setting will change with the positioning of the upper strut mount, but not anything exterior to the strut tower?