for some reason or another my air bag light has been flashing , i didnt hit or tap anything with the sho , it just started to come on. any ideas out there? im unable to check codes- i bought the car used and the connection piece has been cut - its m.i.a ty for any help. its annoying ,
Air bag
- Thread starter scooby
- Start date
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projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Count the flashes of the airbag light. It should be flashing a two digit code.
Pulling engine codes would matter anyway, the systems are not interconnected.
Steve
Pulling engine codes would matter anyway, the systems are not interconnected.
Steve
sorry for the long delay - i got a 12 from the light.
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
sorry if this is hijacking the thread but i felt it was relevant to my problem without having to start another thread after finding it with the search.
first just want to say hi, i'm a new member and a new SHO owner. i'm having a similar problem since i bought the car it's got a few electrical 'issues' nothing affecting how the car runs and drives and stops, but rather annoying. the one that pertains to the topic is this:
the SRS chime has been active since i bought the car and after talking to the previous owner she said she had some work done a while back and it's been doing it since. I dont see an SRS idiot light, which means i have to replace it.
1. How do i take the guage cluster out to replace the bulb? is it difficult with a 1991 SHO plus?
2. Seriously doubt it's just the light that is the issue. my feeling is that it's probably a bad module. how much are these things?
3. in the mean time between taking the module out and replacing it. is there a way to make the noise go away and disengage the airbag so it doesnt freakishly go off?
4. how hard is it to replace the steering wheel with an airbag in this vehicle? four screws behind the wheel and the clockspring?
first just want to say hi, i'm a new member and a new SHO owner. i'm having a similar problem since i bought the car it's got a few electrical 'issues' nothing affecting how the car runs and drives and stops, but rather annoying. the one that pertains to the topic is this:
the SRS chime has been active since i bought the car and after talking to the previous owner she said she had some work done a while back and it's been doing it since. I dont see an SRS idiot light, which means i have to replace it.
1. How do i take the guage cluster out to replace the bulb? is it difficult with a 1991 SHO plus?
2. Seriously doubt it's just the light that is the issue. my feeling is that it's probably a bad module. how much are these things?
3. in the mean time between taking the module out and replacing it. is there a way to make the noise go away and disengage the airbag so it doesnt freakishly go off?
4. how hard is it to replace the steering wheel with an airbag in this vehicle? four screws behind the wheel and the clockspring?
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/heatercore/heatercore.htm
or check out http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=81287 both the same thing.
take a look at that site and scroll down to the part where it talks about removing the cluster. very informative. Thank Tom for this one. (firstgen89sho)
-Mitch
or check out http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=81287 both the same thing.
take a look at that site and scroll down to the part where it talks about removing the cluster. very informative. Thank Tom for this one. (firstgen89sho)
-Mitch
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
i dont actually have to rip off all that stuff prior to the cluster do I?
i wouldn't actually think so.
i wouldn't actually think so.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
no gosh no, the write up is for a heater cor removal, liek i say, scroll down to the part about the cluster. starts with removing the beazel. its quite easy
-M
-M
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
thank god...:woohoo:
going to get the bulb tonight then.
and what about the module? is this thing gonna be pricy to replace? or is there some way to just yank the SOB out of there and take the steering wheel and replace it with a Non airbag wheel?
going to get the bulb tonight then.
and what about the module? is this thing gonna be pricy to replace? or is there some way to just yank the SOB out of there and take the steering wheel and replace it with a Non airbag wheel?
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
the airbag module? shit no, just pop the glovebox down (all the way) and look towards the fender of the car. there should be 2 airbag modules, they are both blue. take them both out and you shouldent have a problem. if you want to keep your airbags working go to a local picknpull and pull the 2 out of any sable/taurii (dosent have to be a sho im pretty sure) and throw it in your car. LMK if you need any other help.
-mitch
-mitch
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
probably unrelated but since you asked, 
I was tearing around in the car last night and today and noticed the tachometer seems to be acting "twitchy". reading aboue 2000RPM when i'm idling at 1100, saying i'm running at 5,000rpm in 5th gear at 65.
probably a loose connection or something. i haven't replaced the bulb yet.
I was tearing around in the car last night and today and noticed the tachometer seems to be acting "twitchy". reading aboue 2000RPM when i'm idling at 1100, saying i'm running at 5,000rpm in 5th gear at 65.
probably a loose connection or something. i haven't replaced the bulb yet.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
mhmm, my 91 did that after i poped the needle back over the stop (went all the way around i guess, think the prev owner took it out mudboggin be4 i bought it) i now have that cluster in my 89 so i will see how it is... did you find the airbag module?
-Mitch
-Mitch
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
i know where it is... just haven't made time to fix it. i've been busy as **** trying to play catch up with some baggage conveyor getting installed at PHX sky harbor international in the basement of terminal 4. they switched me to nights and today was the first time i've had time off. and i'm just gonna sleep.
i've been successfully ignoring it by cranking the radio.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
hey, uh, wasn't this thread talking about something else?
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 21
Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
Normal Operation
The air bag diagnostic monitor measures the resistance between Pin 16 (Circuit 613, DB/W) and Pin 3 (Circuit 57, BK ground). If the air bag diagnostic monitor measures a difference of more than 2.0 ohms between Pin 16 and Pin 3, it will flash out code 21 on the air bag indicator.
It is important to note that Circuit 613 (DB/W) is grounded to the side of the safing sensor case, and the case of the safing sensor is grounded to the vehicle in the LH kick panel. A good ground connection, at both the case and the vehicle body, is important to proper circuit operation.
Possible Causes
High resistance at Pin 16 (Circuit 613, DB/W) to ground can be caused by:
16. A poor connection due to loose mounting or dirt at the LH kick panel safing sensor mounting surface.
17. An open or damaged wire in Circuit 613 (DB/W) from Pin 16 of the air bag diagnostic monitor connector to the LH kick panel safing sensor.
18. An open circuit inside the LH kick panel safing sensor.
I don't really think you have a 12, which is:
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 12
Low Battery Voltage
Normal Operation
The air bag diagnostic monitor measures the voltage at Pin 13 of the air bag diagnostic monitor connector. Voltage at Pin 13 should be equal to battery voltage. If the voltage measured at Pin 13 drops to less than 9 volts, the diagnostic monitor will flash out code 12.
Possible Causes
Low battery voltage at diagnostic monitor Pin 13 can be caused by:
NOTE:
If fuse 7 is blown, make sure to diagnose the system for Possible Causes 1, 2 and 3.
6. A short to ground in Circuit 611 (W/O) or 612 (P/O) may result in a blown fuse 7.
7. An internal short to ground within the LH kick panel safing rear air bag sensor and bracket may result in a blown fuse 7.
8. A short to ground on the battery feed circuit 937(R/W) between the fuse and Pin 13 of the air bag diagnostic monitor may result in a blown fuse 7.
9. A concern in the charging system causing battery voltage to drop below 9 volts.
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 21
Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
Normal Operation
The air bag diagnostic monitor measures the resistance between Pin 16 (Circuit 613, DB/W) and Pin 3 (Circuit 57, BK ground). If the air bag diagnostic monitor measures a difference of more than 2.0 ohms between Pin 16 and Pin 3, it will flash out code 21 on the air bag indicator.
It is important to note that Circuit 613 (DB/W) is grounded to the side of the safing sensor case, and the case of the safing sensor is grounded to the vehicle in the LH kick panel. A good ground connection, at both the case and the vehicle body, is important to proper circuit operation.
Possible Causes
High resistance at Pin 16 (Circuit 613, DB/W) to ground can be caused by:
16. A poor connection due to loose mounting or dirt at the LH kick panel safing sensor mounting surface.
17. An open or damaged wire in Circuit 613 (DB/W) from Pin 16 of the air bag diagnostic monitor connector to the LH kick panel safing sensor.
18. An open circuit inside the LH kick panel safing sensor.
I don't really think you have a 12, which is:
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 12
Low Battery Voltage
Normal Operation
The air bag diagnostic monitor measures the voltage at Pin 13 of the air bag diagnostic monitor connector. Voltage at Pin 13 should be equal to battery voltage. If the voltage measured at Pin 13 drops to less than 9 volts, the diagnostic monitor will flash out code 12.
Possible Causes
Low battery voltage at diagnostic monitor Pin 13 can be caused by:
NOTE:
If fuse 7 is blown, make sure to diagnose the system for Possible Causes 1, 2 and 3.
6. A short to ground in Circuit 611 (W/O) or 612 (P/O) may result in a blown fuse 7.
7. An internal short to ground within the LH kick panel safing rear air bag sensor and bracket may result in a blown fuse 7.
8. A short to ground on the battery feed circuit 937(R/W) between the fuse and Pin 13 of the air bag diagnostic monitor may result in a blown fuse 7.
9. A concern in the charging system causing battery voltage to drop below 9 volts.
Bobby1Brat
New Member
Airbag and Heater
I am new to the forum stuff so I hope I am doing this correctly. This post is a bit large but I want to get in all the details. I bought a Gen 2 SHO 1995 about a year ago. I drive 140 miles round trip a day to and from work and have had no issues with this car until the other day. I was on the highway driving and the engine shut off and came back on all by itself a few times. I pulled off the road and shut it off to take a look under the hood. The car would not start again. It turned out to be the crankshaft positioning sensor. I didn’t have time to do it myself, so I had a garage fix it. I got the car back and as far as the engine, it ran great as it did before the problem. However, when I left the garage and head down the road the airbag light is blinking 2 blinks space 2 blinks for about 15 to 20 minutes. I think this is a code 12 ? During this drive home I also notice the heater display is not on, no power to the heater! I start coming to a stop and the heater display comes on and the blower starts working. I let my foot off the brake to go and the display goes black and heater shuts off. I pulled over to try this again and sure enough while braking when the car was almost stopped the heater came back on. I shut the car off, turn the ignition to the on position, not start position but just key on position and the heater works fine. Even putting the AC on high blow to put a load on the circuit, it worked perfectly. Start the engine, heater, AC and display shuts off. Put the car drive and the airbag light starts it 2 blink intervals. I don’t think the new crankshaft position sensor has anything to do with this. It is bizarre because I have never had an electrical issue with this car. I went through and pulled every fuse I could find under the hood and under the dash and tested all were good! Tonight on the way home I noticed the heater did not come on when coming to a stop until the car had been running for awhile, then it did it every time I came to a stop. The air bag light is right off the bat and it last for about 20 minutes of driving. Tonight when I got home after a 60 minute drive I could smell battery acid! I opened the hood and could see the battery had spit out acid and the positive terminal was pretty hot, negative was cold. I tested the battery with a meter. Engine off 12.5v engine running it was about 13.6 with everything on. Maybe I should try replacing the battery before I wrote this post. Is it possible the battery is causing all this? Any ideas are welcome. Thanks
I am new to the forum stuff so I hope I am doing this correctly. This post is a bit large but I want to get in all the details. I bought a Gen 2 SHO 1995 about a year ago. I drive 140 miles round trip a day to and from work and have had no issues with this car until the other day. I was on the highway driving and the engine shut off and came back on all by itself a few times. I pulled off the road and shut it off to take a look under the hood. The car would not start again. It turned out to be the crankshaft positioning sensor. I didn’t have time to do it myself, so I had a garage fix it. I got the car back and as far as the engine, it ran great as it did before the problem. However, when I left the garage and head down the road the airbag light is blinking 2 blinks space 2 blinks for about 15 to 20 minutes. I think this is a code 12 ? During this drive home I also notice the heater display is not on, no power to the heater! I start coming to a stop and the heater display comes on and the blower starts working. I let my foot off the brake to go and the display goes black and heater shuts off. I pulled over to try this again and sure enough while braking when the car was almost stopped the heater came back on. I shut the car off, turn the ignition to the on position, not start position but just key on position and the heater works fine. Even putting the AC on high blow to put a load on the circuit, it worked perfectly. Start the engine, heater, AC and display shuts off. Put the car drive and the airbag light starts it 2 blink intervals. I don’t think the new crankshaft position sensor has anything to do with this. It is bizarre because I have never had an electrical issue with this car. I went through and pulled every fuse I could find under the hood and under the dash and tested all were good! Tonight on the way home I noticed the heater did not come on when coming to a stop until the car had been running for awhile, then it did it every time I came to a stop. The air bag light is right off the bat and it last for about 20 minutes of driving. Tonight when I got home after a 60 minute drive I could smell battery acid! I opened the hood and could see the battery had spit out acid and the positive terminal was pretty hot, negative was cold. I tested the battery with a meter. Engine off 12.5v engine running it was about 13.6 with everything on. Maybe I should try replacing the battery before I wrote this post. Is it possible the battery is causing all this? Any ideas are welcome. Thanks
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