Advice on subframe recall

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Dr. Tweak

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Hey guys...

I picked up the subframe recall kit from Ford and I'm doing it tomorrow. Any advice on doing it? There isn't much in the manual, so I'm just going to wing it...

By the way, I'm doing this because Ford said they already did my car, but they are shot again.
 

WakaShoMan

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JD,

On these boards you often hear of someone doing the recall and "spinning the top nut". I just replaced my front SFB's today and while I did not "spin the nut", I think I know how many people have done so.

The nut is held in place by a couple of metal tabs on the frame. After I removed the bolt, I was able to reach up and maneuver the nut out, WITHOUT adjusting the retaining tabs, by pushing up on the nut and turning it.

So... my guess is that many people might "spin their nuts" if, when unscrewing the main bolt, they hold the bolt flush against the SFB bushing washer. This means that the "nut" gets pushed up and possibly pushed out of its tabs.

So,,, what I did was to GENTLY unscrew the main bolt, and let the bolt "drop down" as I unscrewed it.

Note: The ORIGINAL "nut" is one of those cheap-o stamped things, so you can not simply put a socket on it to stop it. The recall units do have a real, live nut though.

By the way. When you pull up the carpet of your car, there had better be a 2.5" hole (with a rubber plug) underneath the clutch pedal, and another one in a similar location on the PAX side. If there isn't, then the dealer who says he did the recall is full of it.
 

Dr. Tweak

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Thanks for the tip bro.

Do I need to jack up the car? If so where do I put the jackstands? I would keep them off the subframe, right?
 

WakaShoMan

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JDLangevin:
Thanks for the tip bro.

Do I need to jack up the car? If so where do I put the jackstands? I would keep them off the subframe, right?
JD,

I put the car on jackstands, with the jackstands positioned at the "jacking notch" on either side of the car.

I then positioned a hydraulic jack on the subframe, close to the bolt/SFB that I was about to remove. I removed the main SFB bolt, then GENTLY lowered the subframe (via the jack) so that I could remove the top SFB shim and washer. AT ALL TIMES I had the hydraulic jack under the section of subframe I was working on and I NEVER LEFT THE SUBFRAME UNSUPPORTED.

After I got the new bushing positioned, I then jacked up the subframe and torqued down the main bolt. Prior posts by other SHOforum guys strongly recommend to NOT use the main SFB bolt as a "jack". Jack up the subframe and THEN tighten the bolt!

See this SHPOforum topic: http://www.shoforum.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=001653

Hope this helps.
 

Dr. Tweak

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Hey thanks.

Now because I'm not replacing the bushings, I don't need to mess with the fronts at all, right?

What about the hole in the floorboard to put in the beefier nut? It should be there since this was already done once....
 

WakaShoMan

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JDLangevin:
Hey thanks.

Now because I'm not replacing the bushings, I don't need to mess with the fronts at all, right?

What about the hole in the floorboard to put in the beefier nut? It should be there since this was already done once....
The recall only covers the rear mounts, so there is no "recall need" to do the fronts. I did my fronts only because I was upgrading the bushings to the police style.

And yes, if the rear recall was done CORRECTLY you will have the holes in the floorboard. If you do not find the holes, then you;ll have to cut them in and then replace the old-style nuts. (Neither you nor the dealer can access the OEM nuts without cutting those holes).

If the holes are not there, then report the entire incident to Ford Motor Company. This was a safety-related recall and they need to know if a dealer is being criminal.
 

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