do i use rear or front? also how many cans will fill it? i dont have a guage right now but it was bone dry. its a 92 r-12 car but i have some 134-a . question being can i use the 134- with a retro fitting kit or will it damage the compresror?
ac recharge ports. r-12 134-a
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Ishodu
SHO Member
You can't just put 134a in a r12 system. And any system when its bone dry needs to be evacuated before filling this would be after fixing the leak that you certainly have if its all gone. BTW the port for filling is the low side and its fitting is close to the firewall on the passenger side.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
You need to connect a vacuum pump to the system to evacuate any air or moisture out of the system. Then fill with the proper amount of R-134 refrigerant AND oil.
The retrofit kit is nothing more than some R-134 and some adapter fittings. You may want to change out the o-rings to the "green" kind.
The retrofit kit is nothing more than some R-134 and some adapter fittings. You may want to change out the o-rings to the "green" kind.
sperold
Last to Know
Some people have swapped motors and left the AC system assembled by removing the compressor from the motor (but leaving the lines intact) and swinging it out of the way.
Sounds like you didn't do that.
Since you know all your components are working properly, you can proceed to the freon 12 replacement (R-134a).
Your best bet is to shop it around. You have to install the adapters, maybe change your expansion valve, vacuum out the air (and moisture) with a vacuum pump and refill your system with 134a.
The compressors are all the same and the 134a is supposed to be compatible with the O-rings and seals already in your r-12 system. But check it out and get some quotes and find out what people are saying.
Do a search on this forum and get informed on this topic.... there is a lot of money to be saved if you do the minimum, and do it correctly.
The recharge kits are usually for topping up a system that is still working, but poorly, and has not been dismantled... which allows moisture to enter the closed system.
Sounds like you didn't do that.
Since you know all your components are working properly, you can proceed to the freon 12 replacement (R-134a).
Your best bet is to shop it around. You have to install the adapters, maybe change your expansion valve, vacuum out the air (and moisture) with a vacuum pump and refill your system with 134a.
The compressors are all the same and the 134a is supposed to be compatible with the O-rings and seals already in your r-12 system. But check it out and get some quotes and find out what people are saying.
Do a search on this forum and get informed on this topic.... there is a lot of money to be saved if you do the minimum, and do it correctly.
The recharge kits are usually for topping up a system that is still working, but poorly, and has not been dismantled... which allows moisture to enter the closed system.
I was able to do it by just getting the R12 and R134 compatible oil along with replacing some of the seals. It did need to be evacuated and refilled.
turbo79
SHO Member
I had my '92 converted to R134 about a year ago (by a Mercury dealer) as part of a compressor repair (taking out a clutch disc) and it's doing just fine after about 10,000 miles, including a 1,500 mile road trip last Summer. They didn't change out any seals, but, of course, did install the R134 port adapters.
Unlike like last years' road trip, the car now has tinted windows, so it will be interesting to see how much less the A/C system will have to work to maintain the same comfort level. True test ahead, it's supposed to be close to 100 deg. as we cross Eastern Washington en route to our destination in Montana. (Coming from Western Oregon.)
Unlike like last years' road trip, the car now has tinted windows, so it will be interesting to see how much less the A/C system will have to work to maintain the same comfort level. True test ahead, it's supposed to be close to 100 deg. as we cross Eastern Washington en route to our destination in Montana. (Coming from Western Oregon.)
shoon
cliTaurus
AFAIK, the oils for R12 systems are NOT compatible with R134a (unless mixed with retro oil; see below). You should replace your accumulator / receiver drier because it acts as a reservoir for the compressor oil; for best results & durability.
-R12 systems usually use mineral oil, which I've heard can become corrosive and break down if you add R134a.
-R134a Systems use PAG oil only, and should not be used with R12 unless its marked as "Double end capped" on the bottle.
-For a retrofit from R12 to R134a, ester oil is commonly use because it mixes well with the existing mineral oil. However, it does not lubricate as well.
-The orifice tube in an R12 system is different from that of an R134a system, and should be changed out.
So for a proper retrofit:
-Replace any seals that have been dismantled, use compressor oil on them when re-assembling
-Change charge ports with adapters
-Swap out orifice tube
-Replace Accumulator / receiver drier (it contains a desiccant pouch used to absorb moisture out of the system; if the system has been open to atmosphere for a while you should replace it.)
Rock auto used to sell a bag of all of the o-rings and seals for the AC on the SHO for around $10 - 15.
-R12 systems usually use mineral oil, which I've heard can become corrosive and break down if you add R134a.
-R134a Systems use PAG oil only, and should not be used with R12 unless its marked as "Double end capped" on the bottle.
-For a retrofit from R12 to R134a, ester oil is commonly use because it mixes well with the existing mineral oil. However, it does not lubricate as well.
-The orifice tube in an R12 system is different from that of an R134a system, and should be changed out.
So for a proper retrofit:
-Replace any seals that have been dismantled, use compressor oil on them when re-assembling
-Change charge ports with adapters
-Swap out orifice tube
-Replace Accumulator / receiver drier (it contains a desiccant pouch used to absorb moisture out of the system; if the system has been open to atmosphere for a while you should replace it.)
Rock auto used to sell a bag of all of the o-rings and seals for the AC on the SHO for around $10 - 15.
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