The compressor should not take more than about 7 foot lbs (84 inch pounds) to turn it. If the compressor is siezed then it needs to be replaced. Based upon your description the clutch face did a "melt down" which is usually caused by the siezure of the pulley bearing or the compressor. If the pulley bearing is not seized, then the compressor is.
You can get a new, or remanufactured Nippondenso 10P15F (SHO specific compressor) from several sources. Check with your local auto parts store. Some rebuilt compressors are better than others.
You will find that both a rebuilt or new compressor will NOT be covered by warranty unless you replace the accumulator/dryer and the oriface lines, and clean out the rest of the system with a chemical made for this purpose. Cleaning kits are sold by parts stores. If your system was using R-12 it should be converted to R-134a. You will need all new "O" ring seals no matter which refrigerant you use, but the R-134a seals are different (different material), and the refrigerant oil is also different.
If you replace the compressor you should remove the condenser for cleaning and have it pressure tested for leaks. Pressure test it first. If it has leaks, why waist the cleaning solution?
The "special" tools used to take apart the A/C lines are available from Auto Zone for about $20. The tool slips into the garter spring, expands it, and lets the two tubes be pulled apart. The "tool" also is used to separate fuel lines. The set from Auto zones has about 5 different sizes for the different sized lines (fuel and A/C).
When you have the system back together it needs to be vacuumed before being charged with refrigerant. This is the most important step in the whole process, IMHO. If you have further questions, and you will, we are here. The process is simple nuts and bolts, the rest of the process WE will get you through. rangerj