AC Problems

[Ict_Lx]

Hey guys, I finally got my 98' up and running again after a multitude of issues. When I got it running and went for a test drive I noticed that the AC wasn't working. I figured that the coolant was low and went to wally world for some R134A. When I hooked it up and started the AC it showed as normal but when the compressor tries to kick on it drops off and shows low. The compressor only kicks on for a sec and then stops. I'm assuming that I am now in the market for an AC compressor. Ford wants $460 for a new compressor. What do you guys and girls think? Thanks!

 

[Inkertinker]

Search A/C problems here, but I would remover the shim first. Its the ones behind the A/C compressor clutch.
Dave

 

[bacernate]

The low side will drop very rapidly when refrigerant charge is low when the clutch cycles on. Ignore the gauge when it's not engaged that is static pressure, should be 70 ish depending on outside temp. so jump the low pressure switch to make the clutch come on and suck some in until the gauge reads about 30-35, unhook the jumper and plug the switch back in and see how it works.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

to add to bacernate's reply, if the clutch does not engage when you jump the switch, you need to remove the shim.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

The low side will drop very rapidly when refrigerant charge is low when the clutch cycles on. Ignore the gauge when it's not engaged that is static pressure, should be 70 ish depending on outside temp. so jump the low pressure switch to make the clutch come on and suck some in until the gauge reads about 30-35, unhook the jumper and plug the switch back in and see how it works.

to add to bacernate's reply, if the clutch does not engage when you jump the switch, you need to remove the shim.

Correct on both replies.

 

[Ict_Lx]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try and check it out this weekend.

 

[Ict_Lx]

Hey guys, I got around to messing with this today. I jumped the switch and the compressor turned on and stayed on but my pressure was at 0. I put an 18oz can in and was still at only 15 psi on the low side with the compressor running. I then went to auto zone and picked up a new switch ($12.99) and a few more 12oz cans of R134A. With the new switch installed and another can of coolant, I was able to get about 32 psi on the low side. The air blows ice cold but I couldn't get anymore than ~32psi with the compressor running. I figure since it's working, I won't mess with it anymore. Thanks for the input. You guys are a lifesaver!

 

[bacernate]

32 is about right unless you guys are in the 80's there.

 

[Ict_Lx]

32 is about right unless you guys are in the 80's there.

I think that it was in the mid to high 60's today. It might have hit 70 but not much higher than that.

 

[92ShoOff]

Hey fellas, while we're on this topic I hope you don't mind me asking for help with my particular situation. I picked up a '96 last year and the A/C never worked. I tried draining the system and adding R134a back into the car a few times last year and gave up. It just wouldn't blow cold air.

Today was nice, hot weather and I remembered that I still need to fix the A/C. So I started by draining both the high and low pressure sides of the lines, jumped the connector to the compressor, and emptied two cans of R134a into the low pressure side of the system. While the A/C unit was on (MAX A/C) and the connector was jumped I noticed that the clutch was intermittantly spinning fast and slow. Like, with the engine and idle the clutch would go from barely spinning, then jumping to catching up with the speed of the compressor pulley. It would do this back and forth every couple of seconds. I assume since the clutch wasn't engaging at full speed steadily that that's the reason why the air coming out of the vents never got cooler.

Last year I had borrowed a tool from a fellow member to take the nut off the A/C clutch and remove the shim. Well, I got the nut off, but didn't find a shim/washer directly behind it. I had a difficult time trying to get the nut tightened back up oce I got it back on, being that there was no way to really hold the clutch still while trying to tighten the nut. And there was so little clearance for range of movement on the tool to move back and forth with the nut that I just found it practically impossible to tighten. Does it sound like that nut has come loose since the clutch is jumping around the way it is? I really hate where the compressor is positioned. You absolutely cannot get any sort of standard tool in there and on the nut. Any words of wisdom??????

Thanks,
Andrew

 

[aarmel732]

Ford has 13 new old stock in the obsolete warehouse. Just bought a new compressor for 320. But be warned, it is the compressor only, no clutch included. Tell your local parts man to check the obsolete listing for the warehouse, they can still get them.

 

[SHOZ123]

Hey fellas, while we're on this topic I hope you don't mind me asking for help with my particular situation. I picked up a '96 last year and the A/C never worked. I tried draining the system and adding R134a back into the car a few times last year and gave up. It just wouldn't blow cold air.

Today was nice, hot weather and I remembered that I still need to fix the A/C. So I started by draining both the high and low pressure sides of the lines, jumped the connector to the compressor, and emptied two cans of R134a into the low pressure side of the system. While the A/C unit was on (MAX A/C) and the connector was jumped I noticed that the clutch was intermittantly spinning fast and slow. Like, with the engine and idle the clutch would go from barely spinning, then jumping to catching up with the speed of the compressor pulley. It would do this back and forth every couple of seconds. I assume since the clutch wasn't engaging at full speed steadily that that's the reason why the air coming out of the vents never got cooler.

Last year I had borrowed a tool from a fellow member to take the nut off the A/C clutch and remove the shim. Well, I got the nut off, but didn't find a shim/washer directly behind it. I had a difficult time trying to get the nut tightened back up oce I got it back on, being that there was no way to really hold the clutch still while trying to tighten the nut. And there was so little clearance for range of movement on the tool to move back and forth with the nut that I just found it practically impossible to tighten. Does it sound like that nut has come loose since the clutch is jumping around the way it is? I really hate where the compressor is positioned. You absolutely cannot get any sort of standard tool in there and on the nut. Any words of wisdom??????

Thanks,
Andrew

You can take the tire and fender liner off, then lower that side of the subframe to get another couple inches access. I took the nut off with an impact wrench and long extension from the bottom.

 

[92ShoOff]

Hey Paul, thanks for the info as always. So I already have my inner fender cover off from last time I was fiddling with the A/C clutch. How exactly are you lowering the sub-frame? Are loosing the bolt on that corner all the way out and supporting it with a jack, or what?

The clutch seems to be spinning just fine today though. Got out on the road after I emptied a third 12oz. can of refrigerant into the system and I'm getting as cold as about 45 degrees F through the dash vents. I'll wait until it warms back up outside tomorrow and see how the line pressure is and how the temp. coming out the vents is doing.

 

[SHOZ123]

You jack the car up and support it by the body on the passenger side. Then put the jack under the subframe and pull the bolts on that side loose. Lower as far as you want.