AC conversions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ncsu brandon

New Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2001
Messages
109
Reaction score
0
Location
Raleigh, NC; Thomasville, NC
My compressor just died out and the shop wanted to do the complete conversion of the system from R-12 to R-134a when I found out the cost I put on the brakes and did a little research...from what i've gathered the 92's and maybe others don't convert over to that R-134a that well...so my question is has anyone done any conversions or are you all on R-12 still....another thing which is what i think i'm gonna do is i found a product R-406a that is compatible with all the components i have now and it's an alternative to the R-134a as far as being approved by the EPA and all that stuff...the oil is rather cheap to purchase...has anyone here heard or used this stuff yet?
 

Mark W

New Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2003
Messages
57
Reaction score
0
Location
Streamwood, Illinois
The R134a conversion on my '89 SHO, and my '89 Mustang 4-cyl LX, works very well. My mechanic does these for only $130, and tells me that you have to have a thermometer to tell the difference. Go for it.

<small>[ June 15, 2003, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: Mark W ]</small>
 

rangerj

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2002
Messages
2,338
Reaction score
10
Location
Brunswick, Ohio
NCSU,

If an R-134a conversion does not work righ, it is because it is not done right, period.

All too oftem someone pumps R-134a into an old system, and then complains because it does not work right or get cold enough.

Every conversion I have done gets 35 to 38 degrees out the dash center vent, with some variation depending on ambient temperatures.

The evaporator and condenser have to be cleaned of R-12 oil and refrigerant. The filter/dryer line should be replaced, as should the oriface line. All "O" rings and garter springs should be replaced. R-12 "O" rings are different than R-`134a "O" rings.

The compressor should be drained of R-12 oil, but not cleaned, if it is in good working order. All too often the compressor is already worn out when the owner is considering conversion.

Just like Texaco and Shell are gasolines, R-12 and R-134a are refrigerants. The "system" is not an R-12 "system" nor an R134a "System", anymore than your gas tank is a Texaco or Shell gas tank.

The system components must be in working order or it will not matter what refrigerant you install. In the U.S. the only two refrigerants currently authorized by the EPA for passenger automobiles are R-134a, and R-12.

If you A/C system is not functioning, fix it. Then if you want to convert to R134a it will work as well as R-12. rangerj
 

sdpatt

Sr. SHO Engr.
Joined
Dec 6, 2000
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
383
Location
Dallas, TX
The system in my 1991 SHO was properly converted three years ago and I have been enjoying the 35-38 degree air out of the vents ever since. The condensor is the limiting factor in the heat transfer capability of the system after the conversion. There must be a sufficient supply of fresh air moving through the condensor to allow the system to function at its fullest.

This requires the condensor fins to be straight and clean, the foam weatherstripping seals between the condensor and the radiator to be intact and the radiator fan to be working properly. I have recently confirmed a 60 degree temperature drop between ambient air and the center dash vent (95F-35F).

The biggest benefit of the conversion is cheaply accessible repalcement refrigerant that is owner serviceable.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,197
Members
16,142
Latest member
Kaevorlly

Members online

Back
Top