AC Clutch Gap adjustment question

[Porkchop]

So my AC clutch was slipping on Friday and blowing hot hot air even on AC. Got around to getting a feeler guage, which stopped at .024 and I still had enough room to wiggle it so im thinking the air gap is definitly up near the upper end of the .033 acceptable range.

Im reading up on the adjustment procedures, but I wanted to ask if it is possible to remove the clutch without having to lower the subframe, taking out the overflow tank, moving hoses etc? All im reading is you do have to do the those steps to make it "easier".

Do I have enough room to take off the center nut with everything in place and remove the clutch? I really REALLY don't want to lower the subframe to get to it.

I have yet to read WHERE exactly the bushings are, or will be when the clutch is removed. Any help on that?

Oh, and how long to do this? I've heard its "quick", but no time placed on it. Any light on this?

Any additional help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks all:wave:

 

[Izzmo]

You can.. but from first hand experience.. oh is it so easy if you just lower the sub-frame a couple inches. The bolts aren't that bad to take off, and if you just lower it on both sides, the puller nut if right there, take it off, remove the washer, and you are good to go!

30 minute job tops.

v8sho.com is unclear about what the "shim" looks like. But if you just take the clutch plate off, you will see it is just simply a washer. Once removed, put the plate back on and your AC should start working fine.

Others have "made" tools to do this without lowering it all, but it's a real PITA and would just lower the subframe, because it's not that hard to do anyways.

 

[Porkchop]

Nick, thanks.

ok, so you should do both sides... alright well i'll have to give it a try.

Once the subframe is lowered a regular 14/15mm socket and extension should fit on the clutch nut with no problem correct?

 

[Izzmo]

Some have said you can lower one side, but if you do that, just make sure nothing on the engine will hit anything.

Most said when doing one side they have hit and split open the tubing for the power steering pump, which will create a big mess. So, just make sure to watch the engine when lowering it and only lower it an inch or so and check and make sure everything is still good before proceeding.

There is only so much room to go down though doing it one side, so I'm not sure how far it will go. If you still can not get to the AC clutch nut, then dropping the other side shouldn't be too bad.

Good luck!

 

[Porkchop]

Thanks Nick.

Been through 3 alternator swaps so lowering the subframe is 2nd nature to me.

 

[Izzmo]

Ah, then you should have no problem then!

 

[Porkchop]

Nick, thanks for the help. Got around to fixing it yesterday afternoon. Had to lower the front subframe like 3-4 inches to get the compressor bolt to be visible.

Found a trick too. Instead of putting screwdrivers into the gaps, I had a couple of smaller C clamps, that were just slightly larger than the pully/clutch assembly, that I was able to clamp the clutch to the pully and break the bolt loose (which didn't take much effort at all)

Found the air gap before fixing it to be around .028" which is near the top of the acceptable air gap of .033". Took the washer out, (which when compared to the feeler guage was in excess of .025" in thickness) and the gap is .014 with a hint of resistance when putting in the feeler guage. Double checked the gap and it is more like .013/.012 which is fine with me.

Car blows ice cold now (so nice as it will be 90 and 90% humidity today)

It was less than a 30 minute job after getting the subframe down

 

[Izzmo]

Glad to hear ya fixed it!

 

[metro]

Took the shim out of mine a couple months back. I just removed the 3 bolts holding the compressor to the engine, the lines will alow the compressor to move back a couple inches, making it a snap to get a socket on the nut. You do have to take the serp belt off that way. Total time of job: approx 10-15minutes(using a hosit)

 

[SHOZ123]

I did this two years ago. Now I am starting to get the same problem of the compressor not coming on if the engine is a higher rpm than idle. Once on it will cycle but will not initially start.

Time for a new clutch and coil I guess.

 

[Izzmo]

Mine seems to cycle a lot... it blows cold and comes on, but it cycles a lot... wonder what that means? New clutch.. or new ac compressor all together?

 

[Ian Macoomb]

Paul, pm me if you find a good deal on a clutch. I've got a new coil from e-bay already.