ABS codes, a bunch of them
- Thread starter HUTCH
- Start date
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no ideas? anyone?
Here's a little history on the car that may help...
this is a transplant from a 92 mtx into a 95 gl wagon body. I had to transfer the abs pump and electronic control module on top of it because the electrical connectors were different between years. I also had to exchange the wiring for the rear sensors because they were different as well. I ran the line from the engine harness all the way to the connection in the trunk area.
The abs would kick in occasionally when coming to a slow stop, for no apparent reason. I have since done a rear brake job and this has not happened since so I'm chalking that up to extremely worn pads and rotors.
I would like to get it functioning properly, but at this point I'm thinking about pulling the fuse and light... (it's driving me nuts)
Here's a little history on the car that may help...
this is a transplant from a 92 mtx into a 95 gl wagon body. I had to transfer the abs pump and electronic control module on top of it because the electrical connectors were different between years. I also had to exchange the wiring for the rear sensors because they were different as well. I ran the line from the engine harness all the way to the connection in the trunk area.
The abs would kick in occasionally when coming to a slow stop, for no apparent reason. I have since done a rear brake job and this has not happened since so I'm chalking that up to extremely worn pads and rotors.
I would like to get it functioning properly, but at this point I'm thinking about pulling the fuse and light... (it's driving me nuts)
the abs will no know if the pads / rotors are worn or not, so changing them had nothing to do w/ the abs kicking in or not.
having done the same kind of thing (95 atx SHO motor & trans into 92 Sable wagon) I know that there are numerous wiring differences. the most likely candidate is that you did not make all of those wiring conversions correctly. or there are connector issues, perhaps where you spliced wires together.
for example, the abs signal needs to travel in a shielded cable - so if you just ran a pair of wires from the engine bay to the rear wheels, you will get a corrupted signal that will cause all kinds of chaos in the abs system. the better way to deal with that is to re-wire the connector at the passenger side firewall and use the factory wiring.
having done the same kind of thing (95 atx SHO motor & trans into 92 Sable wagon) I know that there are numerous wiring differences. the most likely candidate is that you did not make all of those wiring conversions correctly. or there are connector issues, perhaps where you spliced wires together.
for example, the abs signal needs to travel in a shielded cable - so if you just ran a pair of wires from the engine bay to the rear wheels, you will get a corrupted signal that will cause all kinds of chaos in the abs system. the better way to deal with that is to re-wire the connector at the passenger side firewall and use the factory wiring.
That's exactly what I did. I pulled the wiring from the donor car and ran it through the firewall, behind the heater under the dash, under the carpet and plugged it into the wiring that comes through the floor in the trunk area just in front of the spare tire well.
All of the wiring is factory, no cutting and splicing anywhere.
Where the plugs were different, I exchanged wires from the donor.
All of the wiring is factory, no cutting and splicing anywhere.
Where the plugs were different, I exchanged wires from the donor.
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