A Few Questions Before Clutch is Replaced..

[mroldan9]

So I think my input bearing is going (whirring/whining/grinding noise when idle coming from the transmission, goes way/changes pitch when press the clutch in) so I am going to take it in to the transmission shop pretty soon; I don't have the resources or equipment to do it myself. Anyways, I came up with things that will be replaced while it's all apart:

*Clutch
*Rear main seal
*Oil Pan Gasket
*Carrier Seal
*Subframe Bushings
*Engine Mounts
*Control Arms (Ball Joints)
*Sway Bar Links
*Exhaust Manifold to Y-Pipe Studs
*Clutch Adjuster Mechanism (the one in there is broken already)
*Clutch Cable
*Clutch Cable Bushing

Anything else I should be looking to replace while its apart?

Also, I want to get the diff pin welded (I have no money for a quaife or wavetrac right now), how to I go about explaining that to the transmission shop so they know what I'm talking about and not sound like an idiot?

I have a shop in mind already.. but does anyone in the Denver area have any recommendations for an experienced SHO shop around here?

I'm going to be supplying all the parts so hopefully the cost of labor stays under 1k!

BTW big thanks to all members of this forum, especially those old timers.. I don't post much but have done A LOT of reading through the thread and learned an awful lot!

 

[K-Dawg]

Throw-out bearing, which comes with most clutch kits. However, most people would recommend a SHONut Ceramic throw-out bearing. I usually replace the trans seals (input, (2) output, shift). You may also want to pick up a couple subframe bushing recall kits and maybe two subframe repair kits for the strut rod bushing mounts.

I'm not sure what the preferred method of diff-pin welding is these days, but I imagine that it involves some sort of ring or pipe.

There's a couple SHO enthusiasts in the Denver area. Maybe they'll see your thread and be willing to point you in the right direction

 

[ISHOU]

I can tell you where not to take it. Kellers Automotive. They did my 89 about 5 years ago and I ended up having to supply the flywheel since it still had the undersized one and they couldn't figure out how to get one. It would have taken them about two weeks if not for my effort, but it was over the holidays. I would check with Seyfor Automotive. They are up north in Arvada. The shop owner Donny is a big Ford guy and familiar with the SHO.

 

[jayro]

On the dif welding...a normal trans shop is not going to be able to do it. It involves taking the transmision apart to access the diff. I have seen 2 different types of diff welding. The best is probably the one where you have a ring tht slides over the diff that is welded to the pins. You can also use short pieces of steel rod at an angle between the 2 short pins and the ring gear rivits. There is a lot of discussion about the welding causing things to be unbalanced. Read up and decide for yourself. I did mine a few years prior to buying a Wavetrac. I just had the supports welded between the pins and the ring gear rivits. If you do this you have to make sure that enough heat is used to get a good weld on the pins and rivits. Also have to watch for case clearance issues.

TO be honest, if you are wanting to have this type of work done on your sho I would recommend finding a local enthusiast who has a facility and is willing to do the work. They are going to know more about the vehicle than a shop.

 

[K-Dawg]

Oh yeah, get the flywheel ground.

 

[mroldan9]

I can tell you where not to take it. Kellers Automotive. They did my 89 about 5 years ago and I ended up having to supply the flywheel since it still had the undersized one and they couldn't figure out how to get one. It would have taken them about two weeks if not for my effort, but it was over the holidays. I would check with Seyfor Automotive. They are up north in Arvada. The shop owner Donny is a big Ford guy and familiar with the SHO.

:thankyou:

I will check them out for sure! Actually pretty close to where I live so even better!

And about the differential.. doesn't the transmission have to come apart anyway for the input bearing (pilot bearing?) to be replaced? I just thought since it has to be apart it would be a good time to make sure the differential is good for a long time to come.

 

[Toolman]

Your internal bearings are likely fine. What you are experiencing sound like a throw out bearing failure, which does not require transaxle disassembly.

Likely not going to find anyone to do all you are wanting for the price you mention. At least not someone you would WANT working on your vehicle.

 

[K-Dawg]

Your internal bearings are likely fine. What you are experiencing sound like a throw out bearing failure, which does not require transaxle disassembly.

Agreed, except it doesn't necessarily point to a throw-out bearing failure. My brand new ceramic bearing makes quite a racket, and it goes away when I press the pedal.

As long as the clutch pedal feels fine when you press it, the clutch isn't slipping, and you can change gears fine, keep driving it until something fails.

 

[mroldan9]

Agreed, except it doesn't necessarily point to a throw-out bearing failure. My brand new ceramic bearing makes quite a racket, and it goes away when I press the pedal.

As long as the clutch pedal feels fine when you press it, the clutch isn't slipping, and you can change gears fine, keep driving it until something fails.

That's what I'm hoping for and if I was certain it was the TOB I would keep on driving.. it shifts and drives perfect otherwise!

I've just read conflicting info.. some say if the noise is present just sitting there idling with the clutch pedal "out" its the input bearing.. if the noise is there when you press the clutch "in" its the TOB, which lead me to believe its not the TOB. But I know less about this car than most of you so at this point I just dont know and wouldnt want to risk ruining the transaxle if it is indeed the input bearing and I drive it until it fails completely I have a love/hate relationship with this car.

 

[rbruso]

If the noise is there when the clutch is disengaged but goes away when the clutch is engaged it is the TOB. When fully disengaged, the TOB is still touching the pressure plate fingers, even if just barely, so the bearing ends up chattering over the fingers. This is not a sign of a problem.

I agree with the earlier post: if the clutch isn't slipping, if the trans is shifting (relatively) smoothly, and if there's no noise when the clutch is engaged just keep driving it.

Even if it is shifting hard I'd recommend checking the fluid and maybe trying a different fluid.