A couple trans ?s

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87hurricane

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Hi guys, I'm new to the board, and to SHOs, although I have several friends that had/have SHOs. I'm picking up a 92 MTX this weekend with a dead tranny. I have another trans to put in the car, but I wanted to know if there was anything I should check or replace before I put it in the car. Also, is there anything else that I should replace while I have the trans out? I plan on replacing the crank seal, is there anything else that I should replace or check just to be safe? I'm a firm believe in fixing it right the first time, and I don't mind spending a little extra time and money to make sure that everything is right while I have it torn apart. Thanks in advance guys.

Dave
 

Phoenix

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Hi guys, I'm new to the board, and to SHOs, although I have several friends that had/have SHOs. I'm picking up a 92 MTX this weekend with a dead tranny. I have another trans to put in the car, but I wanted to know if there was anything I should check or replace before I put it in the car. Also, is there anything else that I should replace while I have the trans out? I plan on replacing the crank seal, is there anything else that I should replace or check just to be safe? I'm a firm believe in fixing it right the first time, and I don't mind spending a little extra time and money to make sure that everything is right while I have it torn apart. Thanks in advance guys.

Dave

The weakness if you want to call it that way is the Diff pin. It will go out with excessive overspin/burnouts.

3 ways to avoid this to happen again

-Dont do burnouts - duh (boring)
-Weld the pins with a small metal piece to the ring gear Studs , but make sure you clear the case.
-Install a Quaife, the price is 1200$ and they no-longer make it...for now. It's like a limited slip diff. without the pins.

Change the seals and pour some good ATX oil in there and your good to go. Might be a good time to check the clutch/pressure plate while your at it.

Also note that you can do burnouts without a welded diff. It can take 5 years or 5 days before it throws the pin outside. Its just a matter of time.
 
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93rev2sev

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Tranny R/R means subframe removal...usually

You may want to get new subframe bushings and hardware. Locate RCMautomotive performance and shonutperformance.com. They are 2 of the primary SHO parts suppliers. I'm not sure how the SHObrothers are doing these days but they might be a viable option for parts, also.

You will be a very happy camper if you strip down the subframe and send it to a local sandblaster guy. Then, use your favorite epoxy (por15, chassis black) or spray paint (duplicolor self etching primer-2 coats + your favorite enamel topcoating). One year + 5 months later, my subframe still looks like new...

With the subframe out, you can easily reinforce(weld) the strut rod recievers(weak point) and replace all the bushings.

Tranny R/R ALSO means y-pipe removal.
You might want to replace the exhaust manifold studs with stainless steel...especially if they break off while removing the y-pipe....I just used bolts with the heads cut off...if they are really bad, you will have to drill out the old ones...not fun. Use a small bit then enlarge the hole, then re-tap the hole. Tapping the exhaust manifold to y-pipe hole can ONLY be done with the subframe out.

Tranny R/R ALSO means the oilpan is fully accessible.
Take this time to replace your rod bearings. Follow the guide located here:

www.shophoenixproject.com
 

87hurricane

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I'm replacing the Clutch and PP. Quaife isn't an option right now. Ok, weld the pins... is there a write-up on this somewhere? I'll do a search.

Subframe bushing...check, I was considering doing this anyways.

Is there a thread on welding the strut rod recievers? I'll do a search on that too.

The car only has 100k on it, do you think the rod bearings need done?
 

1993MTXSHO

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I'm replacing the Clutch and PP. Quaife isn't an option right now. Ok, weld the pins... is there a write-up on this somewhere? I'll do a search.

Subframe bushing...check, I was considering doing this anyways.

Is there a thread on welding the strut rod recievers? I'll do a search on that too.

The car only has 100k on it, do you think the rod bearings need done?

my car spun a bearing at 99k a few months before i was doing the bearings, so yeah change them:thumb:
 

87hurricane

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Ok, one more question. If I do decide to weld the pins on the diff, how complicated is the trans teardown? I'm a pretty competent mechanic, but I've never had to dig into a transmission. I don't drive like a lunatic, but at the same time, I don't want to have trans problems later. Also, I need the car back in running condition ASAP. If its a relatively simple procedure, I'll do it, but if its too much I may just throw the trans in and cross my fingers.
 

87hurricane

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Does the video cover trans dissassembly too? I'm not concerned about the clutch, I've done plenty of clutches over the years, and although this is more complicated than some, I'm sure I can handle it. The teardown I'm concerned about is the actual trans work, pulling the diff etc.
 

93rev2sev

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Actually, the clutch vid is $20 and if you want BOTH vids it's $30....e-mail him...he'll set you straight if I'm off base..
 

87hurricane

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I'd also like to give a big thanks to everyone who reccommended that I replace my rod bearings. I didn't have any issues now, but I sure would have, I had one bearing that was right on the verge of catastrophic failure. I almost didn't bother doing them, but I sure am glad I did.
 

93rev2sev

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:thumb:

You, sir, are welcome....

How'd the job go? got pics of bearings?

By the way, If you had one bearing that was in bad shape but the rest were nice...Check that piston's spark plug and keep an eye on it.
 
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