a cooler for the oil cooler?

[NovaSS]

I have to relocate my oil filter, no big deal a visit to summit for a bunch of braded hose and fitting / adapters.

I was going to make a custom ****** and get rid of the factory cooler ( heater) and mount a cooler in line but was thinking.........

What if I just mount an extra cooler in engine coolant line between the block to the factory cooler. This would cool down the engine coolant before it hits the factory cooler. This way I dont force the oil through a buch more AN fittings /lines . Has anyone done this?

 

[92sho16]

I don't have any experience with this but my educated guess is that for probably the same amount of money you could run a regular oil cooler and have better results.

 

[SHOZ123]

I've done this in the past, but I can't give you any oil temp numbers. It will help with the coolant temps if the new inline cooler is before the oil cooler.

 

[gmail]

im not sure if it would help much or know of anyone who did this but in all honesty it might yeild better results to rip off the stock cooler and run a new cooler.
yamahasho would be the guy to talk to about what he used for his setup.
you can also go threw this thread and see pictures of what hes using.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?p=996687#post996687

 

[SHOZ123]

Water to oil is a lot more efficent that air to oil.

Considering that it helps quite a bit with the coolant alone I would think this would help a lot of the V6s from with just that problem. The cooler oil is just a added benefit.

TO: OP Do you even have an oil temp gage?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Yes, It is more efficient (effective) to a point. Generally, you're cooling oil on the water outlet of the engine (you're also adding heat to the coolant that the radiator now needs to cool). You won't get any cooler than what the water temp is and it's generally 190+ 190-220 is just fine for oil, however, I found that these motors can run warm as is. I elected to separate my my water and temp so that one does not directly effect the other.

This has helped tremendously as I have not had any issues with cooling in just about any situation I've put the car in since install. My water temp no long creeps on continuous hard driving and the oil pressures do not fluctuate as much at given RPM's.

I would personally suggest a frount mounted air-to-oil cooler with a t-stat. It'll take care of itself and the radiator and t-stat will take care of the water. Don't skimp on the ID of the lines used.

 

[SHOZ123]

That's why I had the water cooler in line with the oil cooler. It cooled off the water before it went to the oil cooler.

 

[yamahaSHO]

You had a separate water cooler aside from the radiator?

 

[SHOZ123]

Yes it is in the picture I posted. It's a Hayden oil cooler I used to run the water through.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I didn't see the picture initially.

Personally, I think the better option would be to cool the oil without the stock unit. Cooling th water first is better than the stock setup though (however, unregulated).

 

[gmorrell]

What are your plans for the car? It appears this is a normally aspirated engine going into something that's maybe 2200 pounds? Is this a street toy, autocross plaything, open track warrior?

Street toy or autocross: Use the stock water/oil heat exchanger and plumb your remote oil filter on top of that. The stock cooler also helps warm the oil during the warmup phase, and is perfectly adequate for cooling all but the most weaponized normally aspirated engine.

From Jason's and my perspectives - running supercharged engines that are exceeding 400HP crank, the stock water/oil cooler simply can't keep up with the sustained high loads of pushing a 3500 pound breadbox around a road course.

Open track whore: Plumb in a remote cooler with an in-line Mocal thermostat. Are you running the radiator in the front of the car? If so, I'd suggest using -12 lines, as that's a pretty long run. In the thread linked by gmail, YamahaSHO posted a picture in post #79 of the block takeoff I fabricated for my remote oil filter and cooler.