A/C Problems...

[mrbamcclain]

Ok, my a/c was in need of a de-shim and I did that about 2 months ago. Everything was working just, ok. I took it in to the shop and had it evacuated and recharged and it worked fine for a couple of days, but now it's off, the compressor, and won't stay engaged. When I start the car it'll engage for about 3 seconds then go off and will not re engage.
I've tried jumping it, but it won't come on. I did a self test and it came back with the code 115. A search turned up this as the diagnosis

U1073 Engine Coolant Temperature Signal Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual.

Can anybody shed some light on what may be the problem.

 

[mrbamcclain]

Anyone?
It's hot as **** here in Louisiana.

 

[SHOZ123]

Assuming the pressures are good and the pressure switches are good then it sounds like a new clutch coil is needed.

 

[mrbamcclain]

It seems that the switches themselves are not getting enough power to make the clutch engage or remain engaged. A temporary fix was to install a toggle switch on a hot wire from the battery.

 

[SHOZ123]

So what are you bypassing?

 

[mrbamcclain]

low pressure switch

 

[SHOZ123]

So is the pressure low or the switch bad? You can change the switches without loosing the charge.

 

[SHO Dude]

or..... The radiator is clogged full of shyt and the engine is actually getting too hot and turning off the compressor so it doesn't self destruct.

You'll never see it in the gauge.

 

[mrbamcclain]

I did a coolant flush and cleaned the area behind the bumper a couple months back. The first start of the day the compressor would come on and immediately click off and not come back on unless the car was turned off then back on. I couldn't jump the switches on the high nor low side. So, I just tapped the power wire off the compressor and installed the toggle switch in line. I'm gonna have to take it to Ford maybe and let them track it down. I'm sure it's an electrical problem. Not enough juice flowing through the switches to keep the coil energized. For now I have air, just have to remember to flip the switch when getting out.

 

[mrbamcclain]

Update to this problem I was having. After searching through many days of old posts I finally was able to track down the problem with my A/C.

My car has been running extremely rich lately and I have been down to about 12-15 MPG. I have scan gauges mounted on the pillar and my temperature would rise to 180 degrees and just stop there, so because the PCM wasn't being told the true temp of the car it was running in a loop and causing the rich condition. The coolant sensor was actually broken and that is what caused the A/C to kick off as a saftey measure. A $17 part has caused me almost 2 months of frustration and at least $300 in excess fuel....:shakehead