A/C no work?

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SnickterP

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i just refilled my system with an R134 conversion kit, and im getting nothing. we drained all the old stuff out, then filled it. but now it seems that the a/c compressor is not turning on, the clutch isnt engaging. is there a relay sonmewhere that may cause it not to come on? or is the whole thing probably bad?
 

SnickterP

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i just ran the elecronic climate control self diagnostic test, and i got a code 04, for a bad ambient temp sensor (which i figured, my car reads -40 outdoor temp), and code 02 - blend door problem. that i have no idea what it means, but maybe it relates?
 

mopower

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I don't know about 92 specifically but on the or near the drier there should be an electrical pigtail attached to a sensor, this is a pressure sensor, it is a two terminal sensor, if you pull the pig tail off and short it out it will trick the car into thinking that the pressure is correct. This usually will allow the compressor to turn on.
If your compressor now cycles then you either have too low-high pressure in the system (check it with manifold gauges) or the sensor is bad. Do not run the compressor if the charge is too low (or high)!!!

There is also a fuse in the fuse panel that could be blown, check this one first!
 

sdpatt

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If you didn't flush all of the old oil out of the system, you are lucky it hasn't run. You must get all of the old oil out of the system before the refill with the new and incompatible oil used withthe R134a. You must also replace the dessicant in the receiver/drier to ensure there is no old oil in it too.
 

rangerj

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SnickterP,
First of all, DO NOT engage the A/C compressor if you didn't clean the R-12 oil and gas out of the system. A cleaning kit is available from most auto parts stores.

Remove all the lines, the condenser core (in front of the radiator), and get a replacement filter/dryer. How much oil did you add to the compressor? Put about 5 ounces in the compressor, attach the manifolds to the compressor, and hand turn the compressor about 20 revelutions in a clockwise manner.

The system takes about 8 ounces of oil, but you do not want it all in the compressor, all at once. If you do not have the tool that is used to "inject" oil into an A/C system, then you can get a can of R-134a that includes about 3 ounces of oil. After the system is run a short time the oil will be dispursed throughout the system. Can you immagine trying to start an engine with the cylinders full of oil? The hydrolic pressure could do a lot of damage.

Reassemble the system with fresh "O" rings lubricated with a touch of R-134a oil. Use the synthetic oil designed for a retro-fit from R-12 to R-134a. Replace any of the connection springs that are rusted. Auto Zone sells a set of, "Air Conditioning & Fule Line Disconnect Tool Set", that is used to release the connections. About $20

The "tool" spreads the spring, allowing the connection to be separated. A good retrofit kit should include the oil, "O" rings, and springs, such as CarQuest's kit number 409996 for Fords 1980 to current with the Nippondenso compressor 6E, 6P, 10P, and 10PA. (Thats us folks!)

Next. While you have the compressor out, you can supply the clutch coil with 12 volts and see if it activates the clutch. If not, check the clearance between the clutch faces. It should be about .030 to .035.

If the clearance is OK, check to see if the coil becomes a magnet when 12 volts is supplied. If it does, and the clearance is good, then the problem is most likely in the compressor.

If the coil does not become a magnet, then the clutch coil, pulley, and face need to be replaced as a unit. If the coil works as it should, then check to see if the coil is getting battery voltage. The pressure switch could be bad, or there could be a short, or an open, in the line to the coil.

When you have everthing back together, vacuum the system at approximately 25 to 30 inches of vacuum for a minimum of 30 minutes. I prefer to vacuum for 30 minutes, then let it set for 30 minutes to check for leakdown. If the system holds vacuum I then vacuum for another 30 minutes.

This gets the moisture out of the system, as well as any remaining R-12. Moisture will **** a compressor. If you do not think so, pour water in your crankcase and see what happens to your engine!

Now you can start the engine and turn on the A/C system. The vacuum in the system will draw in enough gas to activate the clutch. It takes 20 pounds of pressure to "flip" the pressure switch. When adding the R-134a, hold the can upright so that the refrigerant enters the system as a gas. Do NOT hold the can upside down so that the refrigerant enters as a liquid. Remember the hydrolic pressure mentioned earlier?

As the can reaches about half empty, you can help it "boil" into a gas by placing the can in a pan of warm (100-110 degrees F) tap water. Put 28 to 30 ounces of R-134a into the system. If you are going to add oil with the gas, do it with the first can. Shake the can so that the gas and oil are drawn in as a mix. However, before you do this, read the manufactures instructions on the use of their product, and follow the instructions.

You are looking for a low side pressure of 50 psi, and a high side pressure of 250 psi. The temperature of the air coming out the vents should be 35 to 40 degrees F. (A/C on max, windows up, blower on full)

If I made this all sound easy, it is not. This is why a dealer charges $1000 to $1500, depending on the parts needed to be replaced. If the system was working you would not be doing this, right? Lastly, remember there is only one way to never make a mistake, don't do ANYTHING! Lastly, work safely, and protect your eyes. Hope this helps, rangerj
 

DHMag

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holy gawd almighty *bows down to AC God RangerJ*

listen to this man, he knows his sh...shtuff :)
 

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