munkee
Too busy...
Does anyone have a part number for the ac drier. Everywhere I go they have n\s for a part number.
A\C drier
- Thread starter munkee
- Start date
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93MTXSHO
New Member
hmmm... that's kind of strange. I ordered my accumulator, liquid line, and discharge line from Autozone. Surprisingly, they all fit correctly and in some respects are better than OEM because they are made from aluminum rather than steel. My only suggestion would be to try the (choke) dealer. They may be able to find a NOS one just lying around in some warehouse.
most parts places don't list it as an accumulator/drier.... it is usually listed as a "hose assembly"... because it is made onto the liquid line... ask for that and you should be fine... i would give you part numbers but i need year and mtx/atx
Louis
Louis
munkee
Too busy...
All right, thanks guys. I will give that a shot.
93MTXSHO
New Member
Just FYI, the liquid line is not the line with the accumulator attached to it. The liquid line carries liquified refrigerant from the condensor to the lower evaporator port. It's only about a 3/8" max line, which also includes the orifice tube. The accumulator is attached to the suction line, I.e. compressor is "sucking" refrigerant vapor from the evaporator into the compessor.
I just bought a 4 seasons dryer, and lines in one assembly all the way to the evaporator. Are the orifice tubes normally included in these assemblies? I bought a few extras just in case.
( im going to be doing 3 dryer replacements)
N
( im going to be doing 3 dryer replacements)
N
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
The orifice tube is located in the metal section of tubing in the portion of the liquid line that sits directly below the rear corner of the battery when everything is put back together.
Steve
Steve
rangerj
Active Member
MUNKEE,
The acumulator/drier, also referred to as a filter/drier, is available at most parts stores and through several "on-line" parts distributors.
For those who are interested, the following is a very simple explanation of the A/C system.
The compressor creates both suction and pressure.
It pushes liquid refrigerant through the high pressure line into the evaporator.
The "oriface" slows down or restricts the flow of the liquid, in order to give the liquid time to "evaporate" in the (you guessed it) evaporator core.
The liquid absorbs heat and boils, and "evaporates" into a gas. The gas is sucked, or vacuumed, into the larger "suction" line, through the filter and the chemical desicant (dryer), and finally back into the compressor.
The compressor pushes the gas, under pressure, into the condenser where it is cooled and "condensed" back into a liquiid.
The cycle continues as long as the A/C is on, and is regulated by a sensor called a thermister, which is in the evaporator core. The system has some protection built into it in the way of pressure switches.
The low pressure switch prevents the compressor clutch from being activated if the pressure is to low. The high pressure switch, you guessed it, prevents the compressor clutch from being activated if the pressure gets to high.
There is also a high pressure relief valve that will open and release pressure if the internal pressure gets too high.
Keep in mind this is a very simple explanation of the A/C system operation. For anyone interested in the "science" of air conditioning you can find all the details you want in a book on "Thermodynamics".
A couple of additional points may help, I hope.
If you are doing an R-134a conversion make sure you use an oil made for an R-134a CONVERSION.
Do not exceed the maximum amount of oil recommended for your system, usually 7.5 to 8 ounces.
Clean out the system components that are being reused to get rid of the R-12 oil and crap that accumulates in the components. The accumulator/dryer cannot be cleaned and is best replaced.
If you replace the compressor the accumulator/dryer is a MUST to be replaced.
The one exception to cleaning components is the compressor. DO NOT CLEAN OUT THE COMPRESSOR. JUST DRAIN IT.
It is absolutely essential to vacuum the system for a minimum of 45 min. to an hour.
I like to vacuum for an hour, then let the system set for 1/2 hour to an hour, and check for any leak down. If none, I vacuum for another hour.
Water will boil under vacuum. This is why you vacuum. Just as water in your crankcase would damage your engine, water in the A/C system will destroy your compressor. Vacuuming is very important, do not take it lightly.
Hope this helps, rangerj
The acumulator/drier, also referred to as a filter/drier, is available at most parts stores and through several "on-line" parts distributors.
For those who are interested, the following is a very simple explanation of the A/C system.
The compressor creates both suction and pressure.
It pushes liquid refrigerant through the high pressure line into the evaporator.
The "oriface" slows down or restricts the flow of the liquid, in order to give the liquid time to "evaporate" in the (you guessed it) evaporator core.
The liquid absorbs heat and boils, and "evaporates" into a gas. The gas is sucked, or vacuumed, into the larger "suction" line, through the filter and the chemical desicant (dryer), and finally back into the compressor.
The compressor pushes the gas, under pressure, into the condenser where it is cooled and "condensed" back into a liquiid.
The cycle continues as long as the A/C is on, and is regulated by a sensor called a thermister, which is in the evaporator core. The system has some protection built into it in the way of pressure switches.
The low pressure switch prevents the compressor clutch from being activated if the pressure is to low. The high pressure switch, you guessed it, prevents the compressor clutch from being activated if the pressure gets to high.
There is also a high pressure relief valve that will open and release pressure if the internal pressure gets too high.
Keep in mind this is a very simple explanation of the A/C system operation. For anyone interested in the "science" of air conditioning you can find all the details you want in a book on "Thermodynamics".
A couple of additional points may help, I hope.
If you are doing an R-134a conversion make sure you use an oil made for an R-134a CONVERSION.
Do not exceed the maximum amount of oil recommended for your system, usually 7.5 to 8 ounces.
Clean out the system components that are being reused to get rid of the R-12 oil and crap that accumulates in the components. The accumulator/dryer cannot be cleaned and is best replaced.
If you replace the compressor the accumulator/dryer is a MUST to be replaced.
The one exception to cleaning components is the compressor. DO NOT CLEAN OUT THE COMPRESSOR. JUST DRAIN IT.
It is absolutely essential to vacuum the system for a minimum of 45 min. to an hour.
I like to vacuum for an hour, then let the system set for 1/2 hour to an hour, and check for any leak down. If none, I vacuum for another hour.
Water will boil under vacuum. This is why you vacuum. Just as water in your crankcase would damage your engine, water in the A/C system will destroy your compressor. Vacuuming is very important, do not take it lightly.
Hope this helps, rangerj
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