A/C Dead End!! I Give Up!Any Suggestions?

[cope247]

Ok, below is a thread I posted about 2 days ago. I have put in a new constant control relay module or CCRM for short. I am still not getting any power to the compressor!! I even swapped out the EECM just in case there was something i was missing. I guess the only thing left to really do is to swap out the climate control unit up front but I'm not sure that is going to change anything. The only problem I had with the climate control was this last winter it was stuck on high heat, no matter how low of a setting I changed it to. So I don't know. I'm just ready to give up. I am been trying so hard to make this work. I love this car and it just gripes me that I can solve this problem. Thanks for listening to me cry. I'm going to go wipe away my tears and blow my nose.:cry: Any input would be extremely helpful. Thanks alot. Cory
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Hi everybody. I was hoping to get some imput on why my a/c is not working. I think I know but I want some re-assurance. My clutch and my pulley on the original a/c compressor was bad so I got a refurb installed but waited on the evac and recharge because money was tight. Today I just had it evacuated and recharged with 2 pounds of r134a. The tech said that it is holding excellent pressure and there wasn't any leaks. The only problem is, from what he told me, was that the a/c compressor is not working properly. He hooked it up electronically to see what was going on. The fuses were ok, the a/c low pressure switch was good as well as the high pressure switch. But the problem he said he ran into was that the constant controle relay module (CCRM) could be defective. I'm not too sure where the CCRM is located but i think its the small black box located just above the radiator underneath the plastic protective lip right on top.? My question is, do I need to just replace the ccrm or do I need to replace the main climate control unit???? I can run the heat up to high and get hot air, I can run it at low setting, 60 degrees, and get the fresh air from the vents, and I have no problems with changing the fan speeds from high to low. So what do you suppose the problem could be??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my third SHO and I have never ran into any a/c problems before. Thanks so much for your time,-Cory

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Last edited by cope247 : 07-18-2006 at 04:01 PM.


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#2 07-18-2006, 04:41 PM
DHMag
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if youre not getting an error message from the EATC, then it is working properly. there is a self test you can perform on the EATC, its guidelines are laid out in the Chiltons manual.

these compressors (Nippondenso 10P15(x) series) are excellent compressors but do not like high RPMs at all. the Nippondenso 10P15(x) compressors have a max speed of 5000-5500RPM.

its not uncommon for the CCRM to cause a relay controlled problem. swap it out with an identical letter unit and give it a whirl.

has the orifice tube been changed ?
__________________
Dale
79 'Bu - 88K
~Scrawny 1987-2005~

"The love and the laughter
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[SASHO91]

stupid question, but is the compressor plugged in??

 

[I'll sho u]

I've worked on automotive ac for almost 10 years and have found that on fords usually the low pressure switch is bad. Unplug it and put a jumper wire in the plug. if the ac works replace the pressure switch. I have found broken wires in the harnes that runs right above the radiator, so check there also

 

[Kevin Traegner]

I'll second that. I've also seen low pressure switches go bad, and it can be kind of tricky if you're not looking for it. Jump the switch and see what happens.

 

[Entropy]

I'll second that. I've also seen low pressure switches go bad, and it can be kind of tricky if you're not looking for it. Jump the switch and see what happens.

.
I third.....the motion passes.

 

[firstgen89sho]

I motion to replace the EATC unit, as I have one with the same problem, I have good connection from the back of the head unit, all the way to the compressor. if I really hit the dash, the a/c will come on and work for a bit, then it will cut off and not work for a bit, have to wack the dash hard again, its the relay inside the eatc module that has gone bad

reason why I say that, is in the thread, he mentioned that the low pressure switch is good, and since he replaced the ccrm, the only other thing that is left is power coming down from the EATC

best thing to do is unplug the low pressure switch, and check for a 12v power coming down the red wire I beleive, either the red or the green, but I bet that there is no power getting to the low pressure switch, causing the aformentioned problem

 

[cope247]

Thanks so much for all your help guys. And yes, the compressor IS plugged in. I will print out this thread and work on this. Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

Two questions:

1: What year and engine/transmission? There are differences.

2: How did the tech charge two pounds of refrigerant into the system if the compressor won't run? (Takes highly specialized equipment...)

Quit replacing stuff, diagnose it first....

Steve

 

[Racer X]

Two questions:
2: How did the tech charge two pounds of refrigerant into the system if the compressor won't run? (Takes highly specialized equipment...)

All you need is a shop to draw a vacuum on the system first. Those 2 pounds will just about jump in on it's own.

 

[rtuo8795]

its deff a wiring problem. you might just have a bad switch. are u sure your compresser clutch isnt turning on? otherwise , check to make sure your acutators are hooked up right.

 

[SASHO91]

*this is a long shot* what about the coolant sensor in the heater core hard line? could that be faulty? what about the ambient temp sensor... I know some cars wont turn the compressor on if its too cool... so maybe the sensors are out of range??

 

[Racer X]

*this is a long shot* what about the coolant sensor in the heater core hard line? could that be faulty? what about the ambient temp sensor... I know some cars wont turn the compressor on if its too cool... so maybe the sensors are out of range??

I was just thinking about that while I was working on my car. If your CELO switch on the heater line is bad, the same thing would happen.

 

[firstgen89sho]

doesn't matter, I just changed my EATC out for having the same symptoms and problems as cope, and all my problems dissapeared. now... I had 4 different EATC's to try out, one of the 4 properly worked, another 2 intermittantly worked , and the last one wouldn't even turn on the a/c.

now, before you jump down my neck for saying that I'm right and all of you are wrong. I am a certified Ford tech, and have followed all the proper diagnosis for the problem. What cope had discribed, is to the "T" the same problem that I just had. and since I have replaced the faulty EATC, I have not had a problem since with my a/c cutting out and/or not working at all.

 

[cope247]

Thanks again for everyones wonderfull ideas and opinions. I think i'm going to try and go slo SLOs theory. I feel as its my last resort. I will surely let you guys know next week what the deal is. I don't have to have a/c but now I do just to solve this puzzle, no matter how much it costs me. I hate un-finished business!!! Thanks everyone, I truly appreciate all the help! Cope

 

[firstgen89sho]

I'm going off of memory here, but when you pull your EATC out, there will be a (iirc) green/purple wire or just a purple wire, in the black connector, looking at the face of it with the locking part of the connector at the top, the second wire in from the left should be a purple, or a green/purple wire. apply 12 volts to that wire and listen for your cooling fan and a/c to kick on that will determine right away that the rest of the system is working fine. and that the EATC a/c relay is defective.

pic of connector and which pin.

 

[projectSHO89]

We still don't know what year or configuration is in use. There are significant differences. If the OP would provide this, the proper DIAGOSIS is easy.

The CELO switch only affects the blower. It does not affect the compressor clutch power.

Putzing around without knowing which configuration is in use is a sure way to waste time and money.

The quickest way to see if the EATC is the problem is to check for its output at the cycling switch. This would be the purple wire as mentioned. If no power there, check it at the back of the EATC or "inject" a temporary battery feed into that circuit to see if it works. If it doesn't, there is an open circuit between the EATC and the cycling switch.

Steve

 

[cope247]

My SHO is a 1995 automatic with the 3.2 Liter engine with 163,000 miles on her. I don't know if that helps much but I think thats what you were asking for projectSHO89.

 

[projectSHO89]

My SHO is a 1995 automatic with the 3.2 Liter engine with 163,000 miles on her. I don't know if that helps much but I think thats what you were asking for projectSHO89.

Yes, it is. Now I know which set of diagrams to use.

Okay, have you checked the purple wire at the cycling switch for power?

If power is there, have you jumpered the switch to see if the clutch energizes?

Check that and report, then I'll give you the next things to check.

Steve

 

[cope247]

Hey Steve, could you give me the next steps. I'm going to print out this Forum and give it to my mechanic. I appreciate everybodys help!

 

[projectSHO89]

Hey Steve, could you give me the next steps. I'm going to print out this Forum and give it to my mechanic. I appreciate everybodys help!

Send me an email address by PM and I will send it to you as an Adobe pdf.

Steve