A/C Clutch Gap Adjustment

[JRA2000TL]

I need to do this on my 95 and have done a little research. Now that I was able to get the system fully charged, the a/c comes on upon a cold start up and works for 15 minutes or so, then goes warm. The clutch will not re-engage unless I whack it with a broom handle, then it engages only for a short period of time and cools until it quits again.

According to SHOtimes, I remove the battery and I can check the gap from there. Dumb question....how do I do that? Use the same feeler gauge I bought for doing my upper 60k?

As for removing it, the directions seem pretty straight-forward in using something to hold the clutch still, remove bolts holding it on, remove clutch and the washers/shims fall out. Re-assembly is the reverse procedure.

Just not sure how to check the actual gap and determine which one of the 2 washers/shims I need to remove.

 

[TYSHO]

According to SHOtimes, I remove the battery and I can check the gap from there. Dumb question....how do I do that? Use the same feeler gauge I bought for doing my upper 60k?

Yes. When you remove your battery and tray [if needed], spin the a/c pulley [no belt] or turn the crank bolt with a 19mm or 3/4" socket [belt not removed]. When you spin this, you will see the clutch housing on the outside that stays in place. You measure the gap between these two parts, the pulley that spins and the clutch housing that does not move. You will notice the small gap, that's where you slide the feeler gauge inside.

Example:

 

[hawkeye18]

If you do decide to undertake shim replacement, a few things:

1: Remove the alternator. Gives you a lot more room to work in.

2: Buy a good set of snap ring pliers. A $10 set from harbor freight is going to drive you insane. Get a good $30 set from sears. I've found that the 45* bend tips work the best. Your patience will be severely, severely tested trying to get that snap ring out.

3: You will need a spanner wrench, or at the very least a good solid rubber loop gripper thingy.

4: DO NOT let the shims and o-rings fly off as you remove the center nut! They will make a run for it!

 

[JRA2000TL]

I didnt know I needed snap ring pliers or a spanner wrench. I have a $14 set of snap ring pliers from Lowe's, lol. I thought it was 3 or 4 bolts and was straight forward. SHOtimes didn't mention needing these tools.

 

[rubydist]

given your description, you should just remove the nut and take out the thin shim that is in there, leave the thick shim, and reassemble it. this will tighten up the gap enough for it to engage properly.

I use one of those rubber 'strap' wrenches on the outside of the clutch while loosening/tightening the nut - that works great.

As stated above - do not lose the shims when you take it apart! there are lots of little spaces for them to fall into that are hard to find them and get them out.

 

[hawkeye18]

Wait, the snap ring might be for replacing the whole clutch assembly. I don't know if you'd need to remove that damn snap ring just for the outer face.

Actually, I don't think you do.

But yeah, definitely keep a tight grip on those shims.

 

[SHO1]

No snap ring needed for shim adjustment, just one nut to loosen 9 maybe 10mm iirc, but not sure.

 

[K-Dawg]

The only one of hawkeye's steps that applies is #3.

The most time consuming part of this procedure is removing the battery and bracket and putting it back in. I just did it the other day on my 91. Took about 15 minutes.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Awesome! Thanks everyone. I'll post again if I get stuck but it sounds pretty straight-forward. Hopefully I'll have some time Sat. morning to get it adjusted. I guess I'll go buy a spanner or strap wrench or something similar to help hold the clutch still.

 

[AREA 91]

I'm pretty sure the last one I shimmed I did from under the car. I did not remove the battery, tray, or alternator.

The center nut is a 10mm.

 

[K-Dawg]

SHOtimes says 12mm; mine was 13 or 14mm, but it had been off before because there was no lock washer.

It looked like you might be able to do it through the fender well, but I'd want to remove the liner.

 

[AREA 91]

You might be right on the nut size.
I roll without the a/c in my whips.

 

[JRA2000TL]

This $%*@ing strap wrench I bought isn't working! The clutch face just keeps spinning through it anyway.

Any other ideas? I pulled the battery, battery tray, and removed the belt/tensioner to give me more room.

Again, a 15 min. job is turning out to be a major ordeal.

 

[TYSHO]

F*** it. Winter is coming up.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Nevermind...got the bolt off, now trying to pry the clutch off. Not enough swearing at it I guess.

 

[hawkeye18]

This $%*@ing strap wrench I bought isn't working! The clutch face just keeps spinning through it anyway.

Any other ideas? I pulled the battery, battery tray, and removed the belt/tensioner to give me more room.

Again, a 15 min. job is turning out to be a major ordeal.

Here is an exploded diagram of the clutch face... and actually, now that I think about it, the rubber thingy is gonna be useless for this job:



You need to immobilize the outer clutch face. Advance Auto sells an adjustable spanner wrench that works for this purpose, though it is finicky and difficult to use. But it will work.

This also shows you the lock washer under the nut (which you can't lose), and the shims behind the clutch face (which will make a run for it as you're removing the clutch face).

 

[K-Dawg]

With the AC drive belt off, you should be able to get enough bite of the clutch plate with your strap wrench to get the nut loosened or tightened. If the Advance Auto Parts spanner wrench is anything like AutoZoo's AC Clutch Tool, it's useless for this job.

Don't necessarily try to pry the clutch plate off. It has to come straight off. If you try to pull it off (or put it on) cockeyed, it will jam and won't move. While jiggling it with both hands, I was able to wiggle it off the shaft. In addition to the washers, don't lose the key that prevents the plate from spinning on the shaft.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks for the help everyone. I was able to get it. I had ro re-assemble something twice because I'm an idiot and I won't say how long it took, but I didn't let the car defeat me. I didn't have a chance to go on a long enough drive to see if it stays cool after 15 min. I had to get ready to go to a party. I will check it out tomorrow. I removed the thinner shim and got it back together.

 

[hawkeye18]

Dude, don't feel bad... first time I did that, i replaced the whole clutch assembly cos I bought a new clutch off of ebay and it came with the pulley and why wouldn't I replace it while I'm down there, right?

Well, 5 hours later... of course, to be fair, 3 of that was spent trying to get that #%*#%& snap ring off. #4 on my little chart there. That guy is a motherf***er.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Ok well...you wanna know the stupid thing I did? I put the tensioner pulley on backwards and was greeted with a nice screeching sound when I started the car. I flipped it around and re-assembled. The pulley spun as it should, but I still had belt squeak--tightened the belts and I was good to go. Go ahead and laugh.

You guys have to remember before I got back into these cars and got on this forum, the most I could do was a front brake job. Now I've installed a starter, alternator, fixed the gap on an a/c clutch,fixed switches, swapped a camshaft out, and other misc. things. I gotta give it to you guys and the forum for helping me out. I have book smarts but 0 mechanical ability and I'm getting stuff done little by little.

Ok I'll quit cluttering up the thread now with my post. Car seems to be fixed, at least for now; may have a small leak still--will wait and see. A/C has not gone warm yet. I just took it out and drove it awhile ago for about 20-30 min.