95 SHO wont start after runing/geting worse

[chad76]

Hello, just found this great site.

I have an auto 3.2

Im not really big with working on cars but if the job is not too complicated I will try to save money.

Anywho, this problem is geting really consistant,
in the morning my car will fire right up, I can drive it for about 15 min or so, turn the car off. But when I go to start it up it carnks but no start, somtimes it will start, but will stall imediatly, and somtimes when it starts it just sounds really ugly/ rough idle, and somtimes accomanied by some sort of thumping noise, the pedle doesnt seem to help either.

But so far, thankfully the car will start eventually, somtimes in 10 min but somtimes it will take about half hour.

Heh, I have had this problem or similar problems for about a year now, before it would stall when I slowed to a stop.

My mechanic has put a new fuel pump in, a nw egr valve, cleaned the throttle body, and I still have these stupid problems. I somtimes wonder how much he put in that I didnt even need.

That along with replacing the Batery, Alternator brakes/master cyliender, and just 2 weeks ago the starter died. LOL this car is killing me, only had it since last summer.

And now im wondering when is somthing major gona go.

Hope this read was'nt too bad on the eyes, any help is apreciated, thanks

 

[Mels]

Vapor lock? shrug

 

[SHOtimer]

Could be the cam and or crank sensors.
Doug

 

[kd7kmp]

The crank sensor is a common culprit for the symptoms you are describing. The water pump will start leaking and get the crank sensor wet. Do you know if the water pump is good or leaking? If it's been leaking you can bet the crank sensor needs replacement.

Kevin

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Start with reading your codes. It's the first step to properly diagnosing any problems with a computer-controlled engine. There are links to sites in my signature which show how do read your own codes with something as simple as a paperclip or short piece of wire. No need to buy a code reader or pay anyone to read them. Any mechanic who doesn't start with the codes is just wasting your $$$ taking shots in the dark at what might be the problem.

From the sounds of your description, I agree with the above suggestions that the crank and/or cam sensor may be the culprit, but read the codes first and let us know what you find.

 

[chad76]

Thanks guys, I will get the codes checked. And see where to go from there.

 

[SHOtimer]

Don't go anywhere or pay anybody to check your codes. Click on the link in SHOoos sig, and it will show you how to get your codes and interpret them....
Doug

 

[chad76]

Heyas I just got done checking my error codes and I think I'm going to have to redo them in the morning. Since I did not realise that it gives 2 digit codes as well. here they are

111, 111, 117, 217, 621, 221, 433, 217, 217, 621, 221, 433, 2

I think that 2nd 217 may be 216, thats what I wrote the 1rst time before redoing it.

I do realize at some point they start over, but I am confused since it seems to have restarted at 217 instead of back at 111, and 2 times I somehow ended with the single digit 2. thats why Im starting to wonder if I was geting any 2 digit codes??

Heh im a computer or TV repairer usualy, big time rookie at cars

Anyhow I am going to redo it. Maybe daylight will make it easier.

But if anyone can decifer these codes that I'm uncertain of at the moment and relate them to my problem I'd apreciate it. Thanks again

 

[BeatDaSHO]

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=84

go there. Some of those codes aren't even there so you did it wrong.

Greg

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Ok, it took a little figurin', but I see what you did -- you counted the separator pulse as a 1. These are the codes you got:

111: System checks OK (this just means no hard codes, just the memory codes)

172: Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

176: Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S

212: Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault

214: Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal

332: EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly

Looks like you have multiple potential problems to address...

The first thing you might want to do (if you didn't already do it when you read the codes) is clear the codes (remove the jumper while the codes are pulsing out) to make sure none of the codes are long left over. Then after some driving run the codes again to see which ones return.

The next thing you'll want to do is make sure the ground path from the DIS module to the chassis is clean, tight, and intact. If there is an interruption or weak ground path connection you can get both the 212 and 214 codes when the DIS and CID sensor are still perfectly fine. You should also double-check the integrity of the connection at the coil pack and examine the wires going into the connector for any breaks or damage.

The 332 code isn't as urgent, but it will require at a minumum cleaning the EGR nostrils in the intake. Search the forum for 'nostrils' and you'll find some insturctions with pictures for the procedure.

If the two lean O2 codes return, you're probably experiencing a vacuum leak somewhere which can take a little more work to track down.

See where this gets you and let us know what happens!

 

[Zap]

Hey,

Welcome to the SHOForum. If you need any help, let me know. I see you are also in Cincinnati. I take care of both my own, and my girlfriend's SHOs. I've done a number of service things myself, so I have a bit of experience.

Oddly enough, you don't happen to park on Riddle Road, do you? I see a red GenII 94-95 SHO there driving up to school. It's in beautiful shape.

 

[chad76]

Hey SHOooo good lookin out, You DA MAN!

And Zap, I could really use some help from an experienced person, heh maybe you can show me where some of this stuff is.

 

[stevetatro]

Riddle Road?!? I used to live on Riddle Road.

Anyway, Chad, it seems you experiencing the EXACT symptoms of when my CID Sensor went bad. If you can eliminate some codes and you're still left with the 214, it would make sense.

If that's the case, it's getting pretty bad. Mine didn't even indicate a code until it was long gone. It had been acting up for some time.

If you really have all those codes, I'd still start with the CID sensor, as it's cheap and very easy to replace.

If you need anything just let me know. [email protected] is my email!

Take care.

 

[chad76]

Hey all, good news. I fixed it

Yesterday I decided what the ****, im gonna just go ahead and replace the CID (cam posistion sensor) a part I had no understanding of not too long ago.

After a week of confusion trying to get the part, I convinced augtozone that thier parts database has inacurate info on that part. Every time I mentioned that I needed that part and then said I had a 3.2 engine they would tell me that thier comp said the part was listed as "not required" and then saying that they only had it for the 3.0 engine. Even wierder I called 3 other local parts stores and they all said the same thing, apartently they all share the same database.

Well after doing searches on this site I found the part nunmber F134 and told them the SHO guys know what thier talking about, now give me that GOD D*mn part

My car starts everytime now, I still have a CEL though, but hey im just happy about the fact I can go to the store now without having to leave my SHO runing while im in there.

ALL I have to say is this site is wonderful, you guys are great, even though changing a cam position sensor is a laughable task to most here, Im proud of myself considering I have NEVER EVEN CHANGED MY OWN OIL eek!

If that doesnt say somthing about this site I dont know what does, I was about to get riped by taking my car to the ford certfied mechanic, I saved at least a few hundred dollars. And now have alot more understanding of my car, and it encourages me to be my own mechanic.

Again, Thanks thumb

 

[rangerj]

Chad 76,
Ah, chad76, youo ar not done yet. You still have a CE light on. Like Martha Stewart in a prison jump suit, that is not a good thing.

Are your O2 sensors original? Do they have more than 50K miles on them? They have stopped switching, that is from rich to lean. They do that continuously when things are working right.

The fact that they are staying on the lean mixture side I would agree with the above post that you have a vacuum leak. Look for a cracked or broken vacuum hose. Check the snorkle tube that goes to the throttle body from the air cleaner box. Is it split or cracked?

Don't quit now, you're on a roll! rangerj

 

[MVSHO]

I used to live on Riddle Road, too. Can't remember the name of the apartments at the s-curve for the life of me. Lived there for 4 years.

Glad to hear one of your problems is fixed!