95 sho with multi problems

[oneqwicksho]

Ok its a 95 ford taurus sho 3.0 mtx with 120,00 miles.

I'm posting for my brother to figure out the problem so I can fix it, cause anymore he is sho DUH.

The problems we are having are 1. While driving down the road it feels like the car starts to loose spark signal and starts a miss and car will start to kinda shutter.
2. If we shut the car off (while this problem is happening going down the road) and then turn it back on the car will back fire and run ruff then clear out and be fine for a bit.
3. Coming to a stop sign or just sitting and idling the car will start idling up and down from 1500 to 1000 rpms.

During all of this the tach will sometimes just stop working ( I'm thinking cam sensor) Thanks for all help in advance

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Cam or crank sensor maybe.

I'd lean more to the crank sensor due to the tach not working.

Time for a front 60K if that's the case.

 

[oneqwicksho]

That's what I'm thinking. I have everything under warranty so that will save a couple bucks

 

[rubydist]

The tach runs off the cam sensor and the dis,
the crank sensor is used for timing orientation so the dis knows which plugs to fire when.

The idle surging is more likely an iac problem, imho.

Have you pulled the wires off the plugs? - is there oil in the plug wells?

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

The tach runs off the cam sensor and the dis,
the crank sensor is used for timing orientation so the dis knows which plugs to fire when.

The idle surging is more likely an iac problem, imho.

Have you pulled the wires off the plugs? - is there oil in the plug wells?

I thought the tach runs off of the Crank sensor??

 

[Huntervf]

Guys, idling/surging problems are NOT going to be related to the crank or cam sensors. Why does EVERY problem anymore get blamed on these items???? They fail a LOT less than people seem to think.

There any codes for these symptoms?

If you're not getting a CE light, I'd be willing to bet that car has a dirty and/or failing Mass Airflow Sensor. Buy a can of electronics cleaner and spray it out, see what that does.

 

[oneqwicksho]

Guys, idling/surging problems are NOT going to be related to the crank or cam sensors. Why does EVERY problem anymore get blamed on these items???? They fail a LOT less than people seem to think.

There any codes for these symptoms?

If you're not getting a CE light, I'd be willing to bet that car has a dirty and/or failing Mass Airflow Sensor. Buy a can of electronics cleaner and spray it out, see what that does.

Thank you. I have noticed that a lot lately. I'm thinking with the tach issue is cam sensor problem and the idel problem is either mass or iacv or possibly old wires. And, there is oil in the plug wells.

but, no cel or codes doesent make sense (or my brother is not doing it right)

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Guys, idling/surging problems are NOT going to be related to the crank or cam sensors. Why does EVERY problem anymore get blamed on these items???? They fail a LOT less than people seem to think.

There any codes for these symptoms?

If you're not getting a CE light, I'd be willing to bet that car has a dirty and/or failing Mass Airflow Sensor. Buy a can of electronics cleaner and spray it out, see what that does.

'Cause it makes us sound like we know WTF we're talking about................



Anyway, if there's oil in the plug wells you know you need valve cover gaskets. So change those, get some plugs and wires, and do what Hunter said. I used the electronics cleaner before and it helped.

 

[Huntervf]

I've seen many instances where a dirty and/or failing MAF led to rough running/odd idle situations without setting any code whatsoever.

Tach dropping to zero could be an intermittent cam sensor issue. A bad crank sensor and your car will just shut off, period.

Oil in the plug wells won't necessarily give you an idle problem either. If the wires are going bad due to the oil you may develop a misfire or be down on power, but missing and the idle fluctuations you described--without any codes being set--scream MAF to me.

 

[walser]

I've seen many instances where a dirty and/or failing MAF led to rough running/odd idle situations without setting any code whatsoever.

Tach dropping to zero could be an intermittent cam sensor issue. A bad crank sensor and your car will just shut off, period.

idk about that, ive heard many instances where the crank sensor was going out and it was creating problems and not just making the car not run.. and to me this problem sounds like a cam sensor

 

[CademiaX]

unplug the maf and drive it. if the problem goes away.. clean the maf and plug it back in.

 

[Huntervf]

idk about that, ive heard many instances where the crank sensor was going out and it was creating problems and not just making the car not run.. and to me this problem sounds like a cam sensor

Should the PCM lose signal from the crank sensor--even for a second--the engine will shut off because the PCM will not know the crankshaft position, hence it won't have the necessary info to properly time the ignition sequence. MTX cars may seem to lose power then stutter back to life since the compression can restart the engine. ATX cars will just quit and need to be restarted normally. In either case, a code 211 should be set (or 14 for gen I cars.) Having a CPS failure WITHOUT a code is very rare.

I will offer this however. If the car has stalled, then a 542 should be set in memory. If you're not getting ANY codes, I'd double check that the procedure is being run properly. You did at least get a 111, yes?

I honestly don't know as much about the cam sensor as I'd like, other than it can contribute to a hard start/long cranking problem.

 

[oneqwicksho]

I'm in cleveland he is in mcdonald ( by youngstown) trying to tell him things over the phone and this weekend I'm going down to run codes and hpoefully fix

 

[walser]

on mine last summer the car would drive good and idle somewhat decent, but once i would shut the car off for about an hour it seemed like the cam pos sensor would heat up and the car would run horribly and miss not idle and barley driveably. but once it would cool down for a couple hours it would be fine. and i did not get any codes on that. and im just saying ive read on here that crank pos sensor can be bad and causing problems without just killing the motor.