95 SHO Seems underpowered

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SHOtime-95

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Definitely doesn't hurt to have a known high quality fuel pump in place. You can make the access door under the rear seat to make it easier on yourself, unless for some reason you need to drop the tank anyways. Let's see what the old MAF can do for you.

Looking through the 60K maintenance HOWTO will help you identify parts :)
http://web.archive.org/web/20110506202216/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20110506202226/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/upper60k/upper60k.htm

I think you are describing the CPS as a "solenoid", from the location. Haven't seen the MTX that up close, but sounds right ... Pulling the intake off will definitely get you a better visual on whether it is a valve cover leak or a cam seal leak or both. The oil could also be spray from other leaky seals/hoses migrating up to the CPS area during driving.

Is any of the oil getting on the belts or pulleys? That'd not be good.
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/serpbelt/

Yeah I'll be using a Walbro fuel pump. And as for the solenoid thing, it is in fact the cam sensor. It has oily grime on it. I'll pull off the intake tube on the passenger side for better access. Do I have to buy another gasket set every time I remove the whole intake?

And there might be some oil on my AC belt causing it to squeak sometimes. I'll look at that too.
 

SHOtime-95

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Just don't use an airtex fuel pump as a replacement. Several failures out of the box and shortly after install have been noted over the last few years.

Thanks, I'll be using a Walbro.
 

SHOdded

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Do I have to buy another gasket set every time I remove the whole intake?
Which gasket set are you thinking of? :scratch:

If you do replace the cam position sensor (CPS) seal, get the one branded as NATIONAL, not FELPRO. FELPRO branded seals tend to leak over time.
 
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SHOtime-95

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Which gasket set are you thinking of? :scratch:

If you do replace the cam seal, get the one branded as NATIONAL, not FELPRO. FELPRO branded seals tend to leak over time.

The gaskets between the intake runners and the top of the engine. And I'll take your advice on that, thanks!
 

luigisho

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The real answer is it depends. If you have a ton of miles and it's the original part then I would replace it. Many people reuse the MLS intake gasket. If the black coating looks funky then you can use spray paint or I use the spray tack stuff they sell at the autoparts store. What it really sounds like is that you need a thorough upper and lower 60k along with fuel pump. As was mentioned before with the Walbro don't go too big as they can overrrun the fuel regulator and cause running problems. I have used both the 190 and the 155lph pumps and I think the 155 is preferable as it is more than, but closer to, stock.
 

rubydist

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FYI, AGSF32FM is Iridium (anything that ends in "FW" or "FM") - Ford-speak for that is "fine wire" or some such crap, which is why people are confused.
 

Devin

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Yeah I'll be using a Walbro fuel pump. And as for the solenoid thing, it is in fact the cam sensor. It has oily grime on it. I'll pull off the intake tube on the passenger side for better access. Do I have to buy another gasket set every time I remove the whole intake?

And there might be some oil on my AC belt causing it to squeak sometimes. I'll look at that too.
The metal gasket between the head and the intake is reusable. Some have noticed the surface coating flecking off and had just run some rattle-can paint over it with good results. Just be careful with it and don't crimp the metal and I should be fine.
 

Devin

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The real answer is it depends. If you have a ton of miles and it's the original part then I would replace it. Many people reuse the MLS intake gasket. If the black coating looks funky then you can use spray paint or I use the spray tack stuff they sell at the autoparts store. What it really sounds like is that you need a thorough upper and lower 60k along with fuel pump. As was mentioned before with the Walbro don't go too big as they can overrrun the fuel regulator and cause running problems. I have used both the 190 and the 155lph pumps and I think the 155 is preferable as it is more than, but closer to, stock.
Ahh, ninja'd!
 

SHOtime-95

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Well I put the old MAF sensor in, and now the car runs perfectly fine again, but still feels like any ordinary 90s sedan with just a little extra top end. I'll test the fuel pressure pretty soon and update
 

SHOtime-95

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My Fuel Pressure is 25 psi at 1000 rpm. It stayed the same throughout the rpm range. When I shut the car off I let it sit and the fuel pressure did not drop at all. It actually went up about 2 psi according the the gauge after about 5 minutes. When I primed the car I can hear the fuel pump hum for a couple seconds, but the fuel pressure would not rise at all. I'm not sure why. The tester did not seem very responsive though. It took about 5 seconds of running for the gauge to start going up to 25 psi. Does 25 psi sound about right for my fuel pressure??
 

SHOtime-95

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You should have 49psi.


Wow really? I kept reading on here around 35 stock at idle. 49 sounds a bit high, but I'll take your word for it. I'm thinking my fuel pump is bad. Sometimes I've got to prime it a couple times to get her to start immediately too. And it having poor acceleration of course.
 

rubydist

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it could also be the pressure regulator, but if the pump is 20 years old, its a good idea to replace it anyway.
 

SHOtime-95

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it could also be the pressure regulator, but if the pump is 20 years old, its a good idea to replace it anyway.

Wouldn't my fuel pressure leak if it was the regulator? I did prime it 7 or 8 times and the pressure would not climb at all, according to the gauge. And sometimes the car take about 4 seconds of cranking to start.
 
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