95 MTX no start no crank

[pvine]

This started last summer some time. No crank, no solenoid click, lights bright, battery seemed OK. Replaced solenoid with threaded stud version and replaced push on terminal with ring terminal. Car was not used a whole lot but was fine until recently. Same situation, no crank, no click. Battery seemed a bit weak so it was charged. Lights now bright. Bypassed clutch switch, same. Tried to bench test solenoid but couldn't get it to pull in. I am assuming it needs 12V to the start terminal (small one) to pull in, with case to ground as I did get about 12V at the terminal with it in the car when keyed to start. Got a new solenoid and tried the same on the bench, no action. Replaced anyway and still no start. Checked battery with hydrometer. Three cells showed weak so replaced battery and cleaned all terminals both pos and ground at the battery and the starter. Car now started and started a few more times and then days later happened again a few hours after it just started and ran for a while. My next action after someone can confirm the solenoid gets 12V to energize is to jump the batt terminal and start terminal at the solenoid. If this gets it to crank I am going after the start wiring and ignition switch. If it does not I would try a jump direct from the battery to the start terminal on the solenoid to rule out the pos batt cable. If that again doesn't work I'm thinking the starter itself may be freezing up and not letting the solenoid pull in. Am I missing anything? There's also a small black box on the drivers side up front under the hood that makes a small click when keyed to the start position. Anyone know what this is? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[rubydist]

yes, 12V is required on the small terminal to pull in the solenoid, which then connects the 2 large terminals together internally allowing current to flow to the starter.

you can test if the starter motor is good or bad by shorting the 2 large terminals on the solenoid - the starter motor should spin, however the bendix will not engage unless the solenoid actually engages.

I have started a SHO many times by shorting those 2 large terminals on the solenoid while someone holds the key to start - this allows you to get a car with a bad solenoid back to a garage to swap the starter.

however, if the starter motor is bad, jumping the solenoid does not help you.

the black box you describe is the ccrm, and it pulls in the relay for the fuel pump when you turn the key to run/start.

if your starter turns out to be good, the next likely candidate in my experience would be the key switch.

 

[pvine]

Thanks. I'll confirm the bendix is not binding which would give me the no click. I'll whack the starter a few times and may pull it again to confirm it can move by hand. I would be surprised if this was the problem. My next stop was the ignition switch. The lock cylinder was replaced as it was worn out which tells me that the actual switch may be beyond the number of cycles it was intended for.

 

[Devin]

I had a no crank condition a year back or so and the old ignition switch was visibly fried. If you need info on changing it I made a write up.