bigred56k
N.A.B.
94 SHO MTX problem!
- Thread starter kartmonkey9
- Start date
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Bizzy
SHO Member
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If the water pump is leaking then it would be highly advisable to replace both the pump and the sensor at the same time. If you only replace the sensor you're going to end up in the same boat that you're in now several months down the road.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Agreed.
I replaced Crank Sensor on my silver one when I got the car...I knew the waterpump was IFFY but I left it.
Since February, I have had no problems with the new sensor being dripped on.
Edit: no bashing me for leaving the WP....the motor will be replaced with a 3.2..........Um.....soon?
Last edited:
Bizzy
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Nothing to bash you about Tom. If it's only iffy, or even only dripping every now and again I don't see any problem with just leaving it be. If it's actively leaking onto the sensor though, it would be stupid to replace the sensor without replacing the pump as well.
People need to understand that sensors get wet to a certain extent. It's in the engine bay. What do you think happens when you drive in the rain after all.
Granted, the timing covers are there to help protect the sensors from getting as wet, but I've known of quite a few people who have gone without those covers for years and had zero problem with the sensor itself. My oldest son's car is without them and has been since the crank cancer was repaired on his last year and there's not even a slight indication of issues from the crank sensor getting wet.
Water from the water pump is different though since it's dripping from above and it's got (or should have) coolant in it. Anybody ever dip their finger into coolant? Ever felt how it's greasy feeling?
When the water pump is leaking badly the ingredients from the coolant is what I think causes the damage to the sensor. I think it coats the sensor and causes or contributes the sensor's early demise. I'm not sure if it corrodes the sensor or maybe shorts it out, I've never cared to inspect one that closely before. It's a pretty simple hall effect sensor.
All of the above is only my opinion and I'm certainly no expert in the field. I'm sure that I will be promptly corrected if I'm wrong.
People need to understand that sensors get wet to a certain extent. It's in the engine bay. What do you think happens when you drive in the rain after all.
Granted, the timing covers are there to help protect the sensors from getting as wet, but I've known of quite a few people who have gone without those covers for years and had zero problem with the sensor itself. My oldest son's car is without them and has been since the crank cancer was repaired on his last year and there's not even a slight indication of issues from the crank sensor getting wet.
Water from the water pump is different though since it's dripping from above and it's got (or should have) coolant in it. Anybody ever dip their finger into coolant? Ever felt how it's greasy feeling?
When the water pump is leaking badly the ingredients from the coolant is what I think causes the damage to the sensor. I think it coats the sensor and causes or contributes the sensor's early demise. I'm not sure if it corrodes the sensor or maybe shorts it out, I've never cared to inspect one that closely before. It's a pretty simple hall effect sensor.
All of the above is only my opinion and I'm certainly no expert in the field. I'm sure that I will be promptly corrected if I'm wrong.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Heh heh....she said hall effect...then said field....
kartmonkey9
New Member
replaced the crank sensor....doesnt run any better...rpms still jump...could the sensor be shimmed incorrectly??
SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
I dsagree that no VSS will not cause problems. On my old 91' plus I had a VSS that got very tied up (could barely turn it by hand) and it would cause the car to buck and stall when coming to a stop. However I do agree that the problem at hand sounds like a crank sensor considering the tach is being affected.
kartmonkey9
New Member
replaced the crank sensor...still acting up....could it be the fuel pump?
USHOMEISHOU
Troublemaker
I'm stumped
SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
Check your fuel pressure after cycling the pump a few times and check how quickly it bleeds off. Also check your pressure while running. It wouldn't be a bad idea to swap PCM's woth a known good unit. For ***** an giggles I would try to replace the VSS anyways... it's only a $15 IIRC.
chrism3784
SHO Member
Mine did the same thing. It was the DIS. I'm not saying its that, but its a good possibility. Its an easy obtainable part at the junkyard that nicely fits into a pocket.
SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
This is a good possibilty if the DIS is not getting a good ground as it is a self grounding unit. Also make sure it is not rubbing up against that torque limiter... I've seen that happen numerous times. Rarel does it seem the unit itself goes bad but it is worth a shot.
kartmonkey9
New Member
well its not the fuel pump...has good fuel pressure..
kartmonkey9
New Member
come to find out it was the DIS this whole frickin time...ef n ay cotton
93rev2sev
SHO Member
LOL well...at least you got to see your oil pump.
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