94 ATX Alternator question

[stlooiesho]

The AZ guy said the alternator is on its way out of this world...usual symptoms...antilock brake light on, airbag light on, EATC goes blank. Did a search on 'replace alternator' on the forum & got various info and have got the generic Chilton's for 86-95 Taurii...just looking for some verification on procedures & torque specs.
After removing the battery & according to Chilton (scary thought),
1. Remove drive belt from alternator by turning the 14mm(?) nut to the right, correct?
2. Disengage electrical harness connector & output terminal wiring.
3. Remove bolt from rear alternator bracket-to-alternator, then remove the two mounting brackets. (Is it necessary to remove brackets?...did not see having to remove brackets during 'search')
4. Remove alternator.

To install:
5. Position alternator in vehicle & install the 2 mounting brackets. Tighten bracket bolts to 15-22 ft-lbs (20-30 Nm)
6. Install bolt to rear bracket & tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs (40-55 Nm)
7. Engage connectors....
8. Install belt

For those who have done this procedure, would you change anything, especially step 3 & verify the torque specs for me? Thanks.

 

[SolidState]

this is a really straight forward swap.

Remove the negative lead to the battery. Battery removal is nessessary, but the tray can stay in place.

You will need a 17mm wrench with a boxed end. The tensioner pully is the furthest back on the engine. Push the pully down to to relieve the pressure on the belt and remove the belt.

Once the belt is off, unplug the cable on the top of the altenator. Using a 10mm socket, remove the other cable leading from the altenator. It will be covered by a red or grey rubber boot.

There are 4 14mm bolts holding the ATX altenator in place. Lucky for you, all 4 are facing the battery tray and are very easily accessable.

Remove the altenator, replace with new unit and reverse the process.

Shouldn't take more than 45min-1 hour...

 

[luigisho]

Do not leave the AZ store without putting the 'new' unit on the tester. I went through the entire stock of AZ alts located in 3 or 4 different stores in the area. Not one worked within spec. I had to go to 2 Pep Boys locations testing theirs as well before I found an acceptable unit. These are typically crap. A rebuild from a local guy is usually a better end product.

 

[stlooiesho]

Good clarifying info SolidState--thanks--will be easier to know what to look for. And I'll be picking up the alternator today luigisho....would not have thought of doing that. Great input. I'll let everyone knows how it goes.

 

[projectSHO89]

See? I told ya it's an easy job!

If I was at home, I could just e-mail the procedure from the helms CD.

Steve

 

[stlooiesho]

Yup Projectsho89, when you said that, it got me to looking into it. Story thus far is that I've gotten it apart thx to Solidstate's help--knew just what to look for & find. Upon pulling it out, I saw that the tag identified it as a Napa Supreme -- called Napa -- lifetime warranty! Yoohoo. But, I've got to wait until at least Tues before I can get the replacement. Oh well, it does save spending another $180 on a replacement. Are the torque specs that I mentioned in the initial post correct? I'd especially like to verify the one for the Upper drive belt idler pulley (35-51Nm / 26-38 lb.ft).

 

[SolidState]

my ford manual calls for 30-41 lb-ft for the three bolts on the front of the altenator and 15-22 lb-ft for the top bolt...

 

[stlooiesho]

Thx TEG, should be up & rolling once I get the part.

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Mine went out this weekend...so thanks for the install directions. I will be working on mine now too