94/95 Knuckle difference?

[SHO13]

I hear ya, I've read a lot of heartache and grumblings about getting those bolts off. I've been jacking up the car this past week and spraying down the bolts with penetrating oil.

I've been on the hunt for a 4' crowbar, largest I could find was a 3 footer at Lowes and Home depot.

If I need to, I'll hit Sears for a compressor and impact wrench. Just wasn't sure what rating I would need. I think I saw them from 150 - 600 lbs or so. Price went up exponentially

Hey, what kind of paint do you use on the calipers? High temp? Prime then paint? Clear coat? I want to avoid rusty calipers this time around..

Thanks

 

[FoeSho]

I guess i am spoiled with my Ingersoll-Rand Titanium 1/2" impact gun.

Powerful impact wrench. 1000 ft./lbs. NBT, 9500 rpm. Weighs only 4 lbs. Includes Titanium hammer case, adjustable power regulator, swivel inlet, composite housing. Twin Hammer Plus impact mechanism.

* Impact wrench with 1000 ft./lbs. of nut-busting torque
* Titanium composite materials for lightweight maximum durability




And yes its true 1000 ft lbs of torque. It hasn't been stopped yet. Taking the strut to knuckle bolts out is a 30 second process with this impact. I figured as much as I work on cars at home, it was important to have the proper tools. I have basically a full service shop sans a lift ( I wiiiiish!!!) in my 1.5 car garage.

The Gun was only $259 ( are you reading this sears or Ingersoll-Rand, I expect a comission check in the mail by next friday LOL ) and has taken the stress away from fixing rusty and old parts of vehicles.


Keep in mind that those cheaper impact guns that are rated to "600ft lbs" are rated at a free wheel torque rating not a working load torque rating. I personally don;t even know how they can rate torque at a freewheel speed but..???

 

[Racer X]

With the aid of a firewrench and a heineken or two, I was able to get my pinch bolts off without much fanfare. However, to err on the side of caution, I replaceed them with a pair of Grade 10.9 bolts. It's nice having a Metric & Multistandard Components Corporation warehouse within driving distance from my place.

The bolts are M14x1.75 or M14x2, IIRC.

 

[Shoaz]

Cooling... For the track?

Yes.

Does the shield provide any benefit for the daily driver? I really don't see the track in her future, just spirited street driving.

The shields are there to keep mud and dirt out of the brakes. They don't really do much, but for street use they don't hurt anything, either, other than get in the way when you're working on the brakes. They're miserable to work around, IMHO.

 

[Shoaz]

I guess i am spoiled with my Ingersoll-Rand Titanium 1/2" impact gun.

How much air does that dude need? 90psi?

My half-inch impact gun is pretty weak. I usually wind up using my 1/2" breaker bar with a conduit cheater because the impact gun can't break things loose. :shakehead

 

[SHORANGERBIRD]

-back to the orginal theme of the thread, abs was standard on sho and optional on regular taurii in 94/95, but they both used the same knuckle. the non abs taurii had the provisions for abs, it just wasnt used. that said, when you look up a knucle for 94/95 taurus slo and sho, they have different part numbers, but they are the SAME knuckle. if some of you oldtimers can pull out some of the original SHO Registrys and see in some of my columns i wrote for them about parts, one of the tips i gave, and verified my self at the plant and the parts depot, is that the only diff ford had between the two knuckles is that for apperance they coated the shos knuckle with a black "paint" like coating to keep the higher priced shos you were buying from rusting. hence, the diff part numbers and price. hope that is clear as mud to ya.......

 

[NJatx]

94 and 95 knuckles are the same exact thing.
89-93 are different and 94-99 are basicly the same

 

[yamahaSHO]

94 and 95 knuckles are the same exact thing.
89-93 are different and 94-99 are basicly the same

You're missing the point.... They are available with and without ABS if you get knuckles from a regular Taurus or a Sable.

 

[NJatx]

very true i didnt think about that when i was posting.
my bad, thanks for pointing that out. dont want to give
someone bad info.

 

[shosound]

If you want to paint them use only CAPIPER paint! Any auto parts store and even wallmart should have it in a few colors. This is special paint that can take the heat/possible chemicals(brake fluid). If you use anything else it will flake off in about 6 months, and the brake dust will be near impossible to clean off of it. For the extra couple bucks it's worth it

 

[yamahaSHO]

Can you tell me more about this CAPIPER paint? I've been using caliper paint...

 

[93silverbulletSH0]

94-99 are basicly the same

actually 94/95 and 96-99 are quite different: 96-99 have the ball joint on the knuckle vs. bj on the control arm on the 89-95.

 

[Off Road SHO]

94 and 95 knuckles are the same exact thing.
89-93 are different and 94-99 are basicly the same

94-95 knuckles from a SHO are not the same as the 96-99. What he needs are 94-95 knuckles with the ABS holes and FN74 caliper mounting brackets, NOT the DN101 from the regular taurus slo. Even though the space between the mounting holes are the same, the space between the mounting holes and the center of the hub assembly is greater by about 3/4" on the FN74 brackets. You need that extra 3/4" if you're wanting to run the Gen 3 SHO rotors.

Tom

 

[SHO13]

Appreciate the help

Apprecaite the help... I think I have just about everything gathered up or on order.

I picked up the following:

1 94/95 Knuckles w/ABS from junkyard
2. 2 New Timken hubs/bearings, pressed into the knuckles
3. Remanufactured calipers for 95 Lincoln Conti (Cardone-PN 164611, 164610)
4. Brembo rotors 96 SHO, 11.6". PN 27250
5. Eibach Springs (still wating on em/ back order)
6 Tokico's, (these are getting hard to come by)
7. Moog, Front/Rear Strut rod bushings
8. Moog Lower control arms
9. Moog Sway Bar links
10. Moog Sway bar/frame bushings
11. 17" Ronal R41's, polished face w/silver barrel

Nice thing is, if you take the knuckles w/hub installed and tape measure to the auto parts store, it was easy to tell if I had the right caliper bracket. My bracket didn't have any distinguising part numbers on it.

As far as the caster/camber goes. I'm going to install the springs first, see how far I am out of alignment, then cut welds as necessary. Hopefully I won't be too far off. I've already dropped a pretty penny into her and want to avoid spending another $400 on camber plates or BMR/GTP arms (unless I have to). Too many other things to buy later, it just never seems to end... :cry:

Anyways, a few more questions.

I looked at the Monroe upper strut mount w/bearing. Isn't there supposed to be an upper spring seat? What about the lower springs seat? What insulate the steel Eibachs from the Tokico? Is there some rubber tips that come with the Eibachs.

The Monroe front strut mounts (out of the box) appear to have a sloped edge where the shaft comes through. I'm assuming this only goes in one way. Does the slope tilt outboard or inboard?

Subframe bushings, 171K on the originals... They appear to be in decent shape (California,Hawaii,Florida car -- not much rust) I've heard the Gen III bushings are pretty good and won't be as harsh as the aluminum. Your thoughts?

Thanks

 

[LeddZepp8687]

How much air does that dude need? 90psi?

My half-inch impact gun is pretty weak. I usually wind up using my 1/2" breaker bar with a conduit cheater because the impact gun can't break things loose. :shakehead

My cheap impact cant even break a lugnut loose at 90 PSI..Even at 150+ PSI It wouldnt budge a strut pinch bolt.

Also, alumminum bushings arent "harsh" whoever says that is a wimp..They are phenominal feeling and they dont make the ride any harsher