94 3.2ATX heater hose - pic & question

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apanthropy

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I was driving to the gas station in my freshly acquired 94 and heard a minor thump under the floorboards, around the magnitude of dropping a nickel on your desk...

Then started noticing "smoke" coming from the hood at the next stop light.. so I immediately pulled into a parking lot and opened the hood - Good news, it's not smoke. Bad news, something broke off in the middle of the heater hose and I don't know what it is.

I had a friend pick up some 5/8" bulk hose and installed that to get home, but ..

Is the missing piece here an OEM part that I need on the car or was it just the "T" of a radiator flush kit that some previous owner had insalled?

2y369Y6 (white round thing to the left of center, at middle part of heater hose)

Thanks!
 
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Phoenix

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Its not stock , its a T installed for a flush. And it looks like its missing the screw on cap.
 

EL SHO

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screw a new cap on it or better yet, get rid of that T fitting and connect those two hoses with a new solid fitting.

it sure did a mess in there!
 

apanthropy

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Thanks guys! I've ordered a Gates 18774 cut-to-length 5/8" heater hose (it has two 90 degree molded kinks in it, looks about the right size) to replace it.

The threaded part of the "T" broke off, along with the cap... so now I'm concerned that my engine mounts are probably trashed if that got knocked off.. I wasn't paying close attention at the time but I think it's possible it broke off during a shift from 2nd to 3rd, based on where I was at the time i heard the minor clunk under the car..

Fun.. ;) Are there performance (read: indestructible) engine mounts for the 3.2ATX?
 

SHOdded

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If you don't mind some added NVH, then get solid front motor mount. If you don't mind significant added NVH, get the rear one too. But make sure the body panels/interior skins are tight, or else you will regret the changeover :)
 

Irish Pride

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ATX Heater Hoses

Hose #2 in the above link is the hose you a referring to and what it should look like. The part number on the hose is a direct replacement just in case the one you ordered does not fit properly.

To test your motor mounts, open the hood and prop it open. Get in the car and start it up. While keeping your left foot on the brake, put the car into Reverse and Drive and give the car some gas(left foot still on the brake). Looking thru the gap of the hood you will be able to clearly see the engine. If while in reverse or drive and giving it gas you see the engine flop up an unusual amount, then you have a broken mount. Front mounts break very easy in the ATXs. Some movement is expected, but it it raises up several inches you have a problem.

Raising in reverse is a busted rear mount. Raising in drive is a busted front mount.
 

apanthropy

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I did see those solid mounts while searching..

The aftermarket OEM-style replacement is this thing, right?

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/anr/2967/image/4/

I'm a fair enough fabricator, and may just try my hand at an improved-but-not-solid mount that mimics this thing here - I have the luxury of not needing to actually drive this car just yet since it's not going to pass emissions until its engine is running well (I was only driving it Sunday to get fuel)
 

Irish Pride

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Yes, that is the front mount. If you go that route just make sure you get that mounting bolt on the bottom good and tight or it will snap that mount in half in a matter of weeks.
 

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