93 cooling system

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truly999

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Kay, I am new here and this will be my first post so hello and bear with me :)
I will try to be descriptive.

:madflame: I am having serious issues with my sho. Recently the radiator has been leaking a decent amount of coolant. Even more recent the starter went out and at the same time that what i believe to be the cruise control decided to melt (a little, and i think that is enough). About 2 days after getting it back from the shop with a new starter i noticed it was getting very high in temp and there was a large pool of water (rusty, i couldn't bring myself to put coolant in everyday :redx: :nono:) from the top of the radiator there was a lot of rusty deposit on the surronding areas also. My heater also stopped working, it would blow cold air, sometimes warm, and the next day stopped blowing heat all together. A couple of days later i had been driving no more than ten minutes when there was a loud clicking coming from my engine whenever i touched the accelerator, similar to the sound of low oil in the engine. I pulled off at the nearest gas station, i was burning oil, a lot of oil. Oil level & the engine temp were still in normal range. The oil was just oil, not white or w/ bubbles and I had no radiator fluid and by the cloud of smoke was overheating. It wouldn't start until it cooled down and it didn't have any issues at first but as soon as the temp gauge was in the r/m (normal) I was burning oil. I opened the hood and after a bit of 3AM cursing took off the radiator cap a found that the water was COLD.

I can't afford to repair this piece by piece, and neither can the engine.
Any suggestions, help, ideas would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to im me also, truley999 on yahoo mess.


:snicker: (these are the codes i pulled afterwards to...argh)
129 - No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test

136 - Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S

158 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is/was high or short to power

172 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single Right or Rear HO2S

225 - Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging)

327 - EGR feedback signal is/was low

632 - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) (OD button) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

633 - 4x4L switch should be in 4x2 or 4x4 high for the test

634 - Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault Electronic shift transmission - Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range in PARK
 
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SHOZ123

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I've got a good 3.0L if you need one. But if you don't fix the radiator leak it won't last either.
 

LJRuddy

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My guess is that your system is not getting pressured up. Replace your rad. cap and thermostat. And definately find the leak in your system as that could also be part of the problem with it not building pressure. Rad cap can be had for under 10 bucks and the same for the thermostat.
 

Black '93

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LJRuddy said:
My guess is that your system is not getting pressured up. Replace your rad. cap and thermostat. And definately find the leak in your system as that could also be part of the problem with it not building pressure. Rad cap can be had for under 10 bucks and the same for the thermostat.

Do what he says and also flush the sh*t out of the whole cooling system. The rusty crap you're talking about could be "Bars Leak" or some other leak stopper crap that a previus owner or shop put in there. Fill up the whole system with only water and warm engine to normal operating temp. Then open radiator drain at the bottom an drain all the crap out. Keep the heat on full blast when doing this so the water flushes out your heater core too. Do it 2 or 3 times or untill the water comes out clear. Get a Stant vent cap for the radiator.
 

truly999

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Well a quick update, I took it for a small test run to get more clues and turns out that my water pump is gone so no water was going to the enigine. BUT i have had it sitting for the last couple of days, and i started it up to move it and the engine was really loud, whining. And only got louder with acceleration. When i parked it after the test it ran out of gas as i pulled into my parking space, but other than that it hasn't overheated since it blew the water pump.

and can anyone make some sense of those codes? THis is my mothers car so i am not familiar with it and i am worried about dumping money into something that may be on its last leg
 

95azSHO

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My 95 ATX had the water pump go out I also lost an idler pulley. Since your in there check the pulleys. After you change out the WP do what has been said and then you should have some of the prob solved. It also looks like you need to replace the 02 sensors as well according to the codes. There is a thread in the forum about this use the search mode. Good luck hope this helps you out a bit.
 
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