93 ATX bogging

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ryan21288

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I just purchased my first SHO. I traded a stereo system for it. Its a 93 ATX green on tan with 101k. It has a new tranny and shift kit. Also has flowmasters. But theres a slight problem. When i first step on the gas if accelerating hard like to get in front of someone it bogs down. Only for a second and only from a stop. if i get on it when its moving it downshifts and goes no problem. Also when im backing up and have the wheel cut it almost feels like the cars going to stall. but it stays running fine. It just drops down to like 600rpm. Any ideas? Im thinking possibly a tune up
 

hawkeye18

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well the answer to your first problem is pretty easy: the engine has no torque down low. Every ATX does that, to some degree. If you want a good(er) launch, then you'll need to torque-brake. Step on the gas and brake simultaneously. Load the engine up to about 2600-3000 (it can vary on the car) while keeping the car from moving with the brakes... then let off the brakes.

There is an art to this; if you don't rev the engine up high enough, it'll still bog. Rev the engine up too high, and you'll just sit there and spin the tires... and eventually blow your tranny up.

You'll find that if you graduate letting off the brake a little, you'll cut down on instant torque, making the tires much less likely to break traction and still getting the benefit of Torque braking.

Hopefully this goes without saying, but please don't do this for more than a couple of seconds at a time. You will burn the fluid in your torque converter real quick if you sit there with your TQ at stall.


To answer your second question, it sounds like your Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch is out. This switch detects pressure in the power steering line (like when you turn the wheel) and bumps engine idle up to accommodate.

This can be (mostly) cured by resetting the idle. Disconnect the battery and step on the brake pedal for about 30 seconds to drain any residual power. Reconnect the battery, and turn the car on.

Within 60 seconds, turn all your loads on. Crank stereo up, step on brakes, turn A/C on to MAX (hit the MAX button), roll windows down/up, TURN STEERING WHEEL both directions, shift into gear (with brakes on, of course), turn rear defrosters on, high beams, and foglights if they work.

This will put maximum strain on your engine accessories, teaching the computer what it needs to set the idle at so it doesn't die when you do them in the future.

Then, go out and drive it for 20-30 minutes with varied driving styles (i.e. floor it a couple times) to let the computer figure out fuel mappings and whatnot.

And yes, if you don't know the maintenance history on the car I'd start saving up for plugs, wires, rod bearings, valve cover gaskets (are your plug wells full of oil?), water pump, etc. etc. etc... you'll feel a lot better when you know they're all new. Add O2s onto that list.
 

ryan21288

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Fun lol. The problem is not launching but even just when i start to go up a hill. It sounds like the motor completely cuts out for a second almost like a misfire the it goes fine. Im gonna try changing the plugs and wires this weekend but i might not be able to seeing as i just discovered that it needs rear pads.
 

ryan21288

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The bog is not when im trying to race its even when i start on a hill and give it a little more gas. Hopefully the tune up will solve the problem. I noticed the plug for the pressure switch you were talking about. I looked quick and its unplugged. Seems to be the case for alot of stuff in this car.there was a wire un plugged on the dis side of the intake manifold. It looked to be a ground of some sort. it came off a harness that was below it. I repaired that. The car drives great except for a massive alignment problem but that will be fixed soon. I also have a exhaust leak. looks like from the ****** before the flex pipe. so i am going to do a temporary repair on that by just putting a pipe in place of the ******. The previous owner told me that it had a rebuilt tranny and shift kit. The paint on the tranny looks fresh. It shifs nice if a bit abrupt but im guessing thats the shift kit. im used to manuals...lol my other car is a 04 Honda Element 5spd. but having the auto is nice for everyday back and forth to work and school
 

ryan21288

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It ended up being my maf. I had one lying around from a 93 explorer i had so i swapped them out. Huge gain in power...I thought it felt slower than it should. Plus i took some measurements. I think someone installed a bigger MAF. the ****** side is 85mm and the throttle body side is 75mm. Is this bigger?:confused:
 

hawkeye18

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Uh... do not go swapping MAFs around. The curves for air flow vs. voltage are very, very, very sensitive, and if you don't have a proper calibration you will run either WAY rich or WAY lean, so you will will eventually blow up either your cats or your engine. Please do not go swapping MAFs around unless you possess a tuning chip of some sort and are prepared to figure out how to use it.

I would stress the importance of finding a MAF from another SHO and putting that in there to avoid damaging engine components. Pro-M also makes a MAF you can use without tuning.
 

ryan21288

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Ik its a bad thing. I cross referenced the part numbers on both MAF's and they are the same. So im thinking either someone put a SHO MAF in the explorer i had or they are the same ones. Who knows. But im still curious as to weather i have a bigger MAF housing or not.:braincramp:
 

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