I posted this in another thread, but it's every bit as applicable here. You'll want to ignore my markings, as they don't tell you what you need to know here.
This is the TB warming loop - a hose comes off from the bottom left hand-ish corner of the picture and goes to the TB. That is what you have labeled as Water Bypass hose #6.
Then, that coolant goes from the TB to the IAC spacer, which is literally just a heating block.
Then, the coolant goes from the IAC spacer back to the water block, at the location marked as "B" on your picture.
The only purpose these hoses serve is to warm the air going through the TB in order to keep the TB from freezing closed. This does happen, but only in very, very rare circumstances. I've had it happen to me once, but I don't know of many other people that have had it happen, and that was in central Wisconsin. Simply stomp on the throttle to break it loose (or shift into neutral like any rational person).
Since I'm sure you're aware that warmer air is less dense air, you can understand why many people simply bypass this entire loop. Not only does it keep the air a little cooler, but it means that you don't have to disconnect any coolant lines when removing the intake, and that shaves about 20 minutes off the process. The aggravation and frustration it eliminates cannot be measured, but it is significant.
Here is perhaps a much better picture showing how to bypass this heating loop:
This should better show both of the hose locations. The big hose with no end is the PCV hose - it should look familiar to you! It also shows where the end of one of the heater hoses goes - labeled "A" in your original picture.
Edit: If you have removed the coolant ******* from your TB, then you will have no choice but to route the hose as shown above.
Another note: That IAC spacer is no longer required if you're not running that coolant loop. The IAC still fits, and you get much better access to the two screws that hold it on.
