802SHO 2010 Build

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802SHO

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The perfect storm.

Every now and then a build teaches you more than you planned to learn. This one did exactly that.

It started simple—just a new engine, a better design, a more capable platform. But one wrong gasket led to another discovery, one fix led to another upgrade, and before long the car was showing me how every system truly talks to every other one.

I always knew the mechanical and electronic sides were connected, but I didn’t understand how deep that connection ran until now. The deeper I got, the clearer it became—every leak, noise, voltage drop, and fuel trim wasn’t isolated. They were all part of one language the car was speaking back to me.

Coolant leaks, torn VVT gaskets, a scavenger pump that couldn’t keep up, wrong advice on turbo water lines—all of it forced me to look closer. I redesigned the oil system, reclocked the turbos, added water lines, and built a new return system that finally worked. The car started responding like it was thankful.

Then came the alignment issues, wrong O₂ placement, crankcase pressure problems, and a few small fuel details. I re-engineered, rewired, and replumbed everything—baffled catch cans, larger fuel lines just for extra margin, new sensors, separated boost references. One by one, the systems started syncing up.

But the biggest challenge was tuning. At some point, I stopped accepting simple explanations. I wanted real answers. I pushed past surface-level fixes and demanded full logic—table by table, torque model by torque model. I stopped being the student and started being the system analyst, forcing the conversation into true technical depth. That’s when the gaps revealed themselves.

And buried in those gaps was the truth: the car was never in sync. The billet 3-bolt converter and flexplate setup, the transmission reflash, the raised idle—all done without a crank relearn. The entire foundation was mechanically perfect but electronically unaware of it.

Now that missing link is about to be corrected. With ARP converter bolts torqued and locked, a 12 psi Tial spring holding pressure, and the crank relearn ready to recalibrate the heart of the system, everything finally lines up.

The sunshine at the end of this storm won’t just be a sharper spool or harder boost hit—it’ll be that first clean, crisp, perfectly timed upshift that catapults the car forward faster and smoother than it ever has before.

This wasn’t just a build. It was a complete re-engineering of understanding—learning that perfection isn’t found in any one part, but in how all of them finally work together as one.
 
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bpd1151

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Incredibly well articulated.

Each sentence flowed into the next. Leaving the reader not only wanting more, but also keeping the reader excited. Equally so.

Placing one intimately into your thoughts, your own emotions, each and every step along the way.

Bravo my friend. Bravo!

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802SHO

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Decided to do a crank relearn on my 21 F150 Raptor. Here are the prompts. IMG 6386IMG 6387
At this point I went back and cleared DTC’s. Didn’t even look to see if there were any just chose clear DTC. Then went back and pressed continue IMG 6388
I didn’t do anything here, this is a generic safety message and this truck has a 93 tune so I pressed continue. IMG 6389
I started the engine. Pressed continue IMG 6390
I made sure climate control was off. Pressed IMG 6391
Yes! I pressed continue. Next it will show your idle rpm and it’ll have a target rpm below that. The target was like 3200 rpm. Here you can actually just look at the controller as you increase idle rpm. I was cautious so it took like 30 seconds I noticed a CEL light come on and it seemed to run a little rough, exhaust note breaking up a little bit, it says once you reach the target rpm let off. I did that. Then I had to do it one more time. I did not take a pic of this as it was live. Then this time the idle was already smoother and I didn’t have the exhaust note breaking up, the CEL gone. I hit the target smoother and faster and let off. This is then what it said IMG 6392
I did this bc it can’t hurt anything. Likewise if I return it to stock I should do it again. I also did it for the experience of the process and also bc I wonder if the truck could benefit from it. The engine was already fully warmed up. I arrived at my job site and thought, you know what? I have my SCT device in the truck I should do it to my Raptor. I bought the truck with 86k miles and now I’m around 96k. It runs really well but sometimes it does a shift flare when cold and hey, let’s see if this shows improvement by resetting the rhythm.

I am ready now to do this to the SHO. I’ll follow up with any noticeable difference in the Raptor when I leave this job site close to lunch to grab lunch and head to another job site. Thing is…it’ll be interesting if I do feel a difference bc this was already close to 100%. So if I feel a difference here I’ll definitely feel a massive difference with the SHO. Image
I’m about ready to take the 22x14’s with 35x12.5x22 tires off and put the factory Beadlock 17x8.5 +34 offset wheels back on with 1.5” spacers for a tiny - offset but with 37x13.5x17’s!!! Can’t wait for that IMG 6333
 

kryptto

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so you keep the tuned programming, then run the crank re-learn? what if I already bumped up the idle through the settings like 50 rpm before running the re-learn? trying to fully understand
 

802SHO

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so you keep the tuned programming, then run the crank re-learn? what if I already bumped up the idle through the settings like 50 rpm before running the re-learn? trying to fully understand
Yes you are tuned. You want it running as best it can tuned.
1st) start the engine and let it fully warm up. Let it idle 10 min or so. Turn it off.
2nd) go to vehicle functions and clear DTC’s. Just do it.
3rd) go back into vehicle functions and under special functions you will find Crank Relearn.

Follow the prompts, you’re not changing anything you want it running 100% as it sits. So press continue for everything and make sure nothing is on in the car, maybe turn your infotainment screen off and climate. Follow prompts and you will reset the crank position sensor data to the actual engine data as it sits. When done it’ll be 100% synced.

Then go for a drive and let it settle, some 10-15 min normal driving and then start doing some mid throttle stuff and then finally maybe a partial WOT gear change and let us know if you feel a difference
 

802SHO

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It’s like stumbling upon something hidden in plain sight. Turns out crank relearn was integrated into the SCT devices for a real purpose. I don’t know of any instances that someone actually used this function prior to this.
 

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It’s like stumbling upon something hidden in plain sight. Turns out crank relearn was integrated into the SCT devices for a real purpose. I don’t know of any instances that someone actually used this function prior to this.

I would agree with this.....

Thinking back to when the 2010's were released, all through the years up to current, I can't recall one instance alone, of anyone ever having mentioned this.

Including the various tuners. Reputable or otherwise.

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Jordan_R

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Wow look at the OEM TC bolt. I thought maybe I had to modify the bolt head as well and I did. Also the Reactor Products billet flex plate is supposed to use washers and we did not. All kinds of wrong here getting done right. View attachment 95789
I used AI to find a replacement ARP bolt. These are M10x1.5. It told me I’d need custom ARP bolts made or use a set 230-7304 sold in 3, so I’d need two sets bc I need 4 bolts to use some that were close enough right….so I went to search them and on Summit I saw another listing for ARP….I told AI that part number and it said….100% match…so then why didn’t it recommend these that are sold in a set of 6 smfh.

ARP 230-7305 - ARP Torque Converter Bolts On the way​

I remember the FAFO behind getting those bolts and that socket to work lol
 

Zpak

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It’s like stumbling upon something hidden in plain sight. Turns out crank relearn was integrated into the SCT devices for a real purpose. I don’t know of any instances that someone actually used this function prior to this.
I tried it when I got the chain stretch P0016 code. Obviously didn’t change anything, but thinking back I did have the idle bumped for the trans mounts.
 

802SHO

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I remember the FAFO behind getting those bolts and that socket to work lol
Yeah it was a moment of whatever it takes. I’m not even sure the bolts are 17mm hex bc I turned those down as well lmfao! But now it’s 100% with better fasteners
 

802SHO

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The Raptor didn’t need a crank relearn but I do think it feels more refined now. It either really is more refined or it’s the effect of knowing I did the procedure lol! Now to do the SHO and put front bumper back on
IMG 6376
I helped my son get into a nicer car so now he’s got some upgrades he wants to do. Under my car I’ve got his exhaust, downpipe, intake and tune for his 13 Audi A4 2.0T Manual. Idk where he gets it from
 

802SHO

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I went to do the crank relearn today, and it stopped me right away — “engine idle out of range.” That one line said everything.

It hit me that last year, I asked to have the idle raised from 600 to 800 RPM because it felt like the idle had dropped a little. At the time, I thought I was just smoothing it out, but now I’m realizing that drop might have been the first sign it actually needed a crank relearn. Instead, I masked the problem by increasing the idle, which only pushed the PCM further out of sync with the engine’s real signature.

That explains why the relearn wouldn’t even start. The PCM won’t accept data unless idle speed, throttle angle, and engine load are all within a strict range of what it expects from the factory profile. My tune’s higher idle speed is outside that window, so the PCM literally refuses to record new data.

Looking back, it all lines up — the raised idle, torque source errors, lazy shifts, inconsistent throttle feel — all symptoms of a PCM trying to manage torque based on an outdated crank variance map.

Now I know what needs to happen: return idle to stock, perform the crank relearn, and let the PCM finally hear the true mechanical rhythm of the engine again. That’s when everything will click — torque modeling, shift strategy, and throttle response finally back in sync, exactly how it was meant to be.
 

Bronco2fan

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So, it's kinda like Physics, for every action there is an opposite reaction which needs to be addressed. So much going on it makes my head hurt.
 

802SHO

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I finally got the crank relearn to complete after Brad sent me an OEM idle tune. Everything seemed fine at first, but immediately after the relearn finished and the idle returned to its stock target, I noticed the RPM dip below baseline — almost like it wanted to choke out.

That instantly caught my attention because it was the exact same behavior I had before, which is why I originally asked for the idle increase. That drop below baseline is a classic sign of the injector window being too wide — fuel being sprayed at the wrong point in the stroke, basically off-phase with the crank signal.

So this morning, I went out planning to confirm it with logs. I expected the same stumble and voltage drop I’ve seen before But after the crank relearn, I shut the car off, restarted it, and went through my normal test routine… and everything was rock solid.

No idle dip, no voltage drop, no hesitation — it just sat there smooth and stable. The crank relearn clearly reset the fuel trims and synchronized the injector phasing with the crank reference.

It’s wild how much cleaner and sharper everything feels now. Throttle response is crisp, exhaust note is tight, and the fueling transition is finally in perfect harmony with RPM.

Sometimes it’s the smallest calibration step that ends up unlocking the whole setup. Now getting ready for a test drive
 

802SHO

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My fun was spoiled. Need to chase down a fuse or bad ground. Had to shut it off and back on to get the initial back on power to get the trans to get the signal and eventually I lose all mobility. Turn it off and back on gets me farther. Made it home. Have to leave and figure this out later IMG 6406
 

802SHO

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I’m chasing down P0689. I changed relay 53. I also had changed the ground bolt on the passenger side strut tower to a shiny nice looking one from the moon roof delete for the last car show. I changed that back to the original bolt and torqued it down real good. Cleared DTC’s. Started the car moved it outside to do some maintenance on the Jeep and help my son do his exhaust install on his Audi.

Later it had been running long enough for some codes to resurface so I checked and I didn’t have P0689. I got ready to drive it on the street and didn’t make it out of the driveway quite yet and I lost mobility again. Had to turn it off and back on and then backed up and parked it back in the garage. Checked for codes and P0689 wasn’t one of them? So I went about removing both headlights and checking grounds.

Put about a full turn on both grounds under the driver side fuse box. I moved the passenger side ground against the inner fender behind the headlight so I put it back in its original location. I went through and replaced all PCM related fuses. IMG 6407IMG 6412IMG 6408IMG 6409IMG 6411
IMG 6410
When I got to fuse 46 I’m seeing I have an add-a-fuse on it that used to he for Meth controller I believe. IMG 6420
I replaced the fuse and put it in without the add-a-fuse. Then I hooked up a multi meter to the negative battery terminal and work ignition on I probed each fuse post (2 per fuse) with the positive prong on the multi meter and each fuse post had 12.2 volts. Every single fuse was good, since I was there I checked every single one. I did this of course after messing with the grounds. So I can start the car and drive it….but somehow it loses power after driving but if I lose power to the solenoids it doesn’t regain power. Or at least in the ladder tests I didn’t. When it first happened it was intermittent….it won’t drive forward but it does a little and loses power….then regains it.

It’s not a mechanical problem bc I drove it 3 miles away from home, setting out to test it Saturday and it drove fine and shifted good but as I pulled onto the main road it did the intermittent lose of mobility and I quickly signaled and pulled off on the next street that connects to all the side streets I took to get there. I drove it through the High School parking lot and into a big open area and that’s when it lost all mobility. So that’s the weird part. If it is from vibration or movement, why would it stay powered down? That’s when I tried Neutral, Park, Reverse, Drive….cycling through and free revving in each. Turn it off and back on almost immediately with no wait time, it starts back up and the transmission has power and I can drive ….only so far. Then I need to turn it off and back on.

I haven’t tested it again since last night messing with all the grounds and fuses and checking everything even the main harness to the transmission. The harness was clean and dry and all the pins looked 100%. This is so fricken weird. I first got the code when I went into limp mode out in Stowe VT. That 50 min drive one way to that job site. The excessive crank case pressure and limp mode event. I drove it back the other 30 min or so no problem. Changed all the gaskets, redid the PCV VTA. Moved o2 sensors, etc.

Then I drove it about 30 min one way to do some testing. Did a full pull data log. It had issues of course as I didn’t do the crank relearn yet. No problem driving it out there and driving it back until I was almost home and I ripped on it down the road from my street and it free revved when I was in 3rd going about 50 mph and I thought wtf. And pulled on my street and it was missing and catching. Pull on my driveway and I’m thinking get a log for Brad….but then I couldn’t reverse or go forward….turned it off and back on and drove it in the garage.

So this is a new issue and I’m sort of weirded out by it. Hopefully with all the little things I did last night I can drive it today after work. There’s nothing really obvious. Just I know I moved a ground, replaced a ground bolt with like maybe an aluminum bolt….had that add-a-fuse on one PCM fuse. With all that redone I hope I’m in the clear.
 

Texas Marauder

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I’m chasing down P0689. I changed relay 53. I also had changed the ground bolt on the passenger side strut tower to a shiny nice looking one from the moon roof delete for the last car show. I changed that back to the original bolt and torqued it down real good. Cleared DTC’s. Started the car moved it outside to do some maintenance on the Jeep and help my son do his exhaust install on his Audi.

Later it had been running long enough for some codes to resurface so I checked and I didn’t have P0689. I got ready to drive it on the street and didn’t make it out of the driveway quite yet and I lost mobility again. Had to turn it off and back on and then backed up and parked it back in the garage. Checked for codes and P0689 wasn’t one of them? So I went about removing both headlights and checking grounds.

Put about a full turn on both grounds under the driver side fuse box. I moved the passenger side ground against the inner fender behind the headlight so I put it back in its original location. I went through and replaced all PCM related fuses. View attachment 95863View attachment 95864View attachment 95865View attachment 95866View attachment 95867
View attachment 95868
When I got to fuse 46 I’m seeing I have an add-a-fuse on it that used to he for Meth controller I believe. View attachment 95869
I replaced the fuse and put it in without the add-a-fuse. Then I hooked up a multi meter to the negative battery terminal and work ignition on I probed each fuse post (2 per fuse) with the positive prong on the multi meter and each fuse post had 12.2 volts. Every single fuse was good, since I was there I checked every single one. I did this of course after messing with the grounds. So I can start the car and drive it….but somehow it loses power after driving but if I lose power to the solenoids it doesn’t regain power. Or at least in the ladder tests I didn’t. When it first happened it was intermittent….it won’t drive forward but it does a little and loses power….then regains it.

It’s not a mechanical problem bc I drove it 3 miles away from home, setting out to test it Saturday and it drove fine and shifted good but as I pulled onto the main road it did the intermittent lose of mobility and I quickly signaled and pulled off on the next street that connects to all the side streets I took to get there. I drove it through the High School parking lot and into a big open area and that’s when it lost all mobility. So that’s the weird part. If it is from vibration or movement, why would it stay powered down? That’s when I tried Neutral, Park, Reverse, Drive….cycling through and free revving in each. Turn it off and back on almost immediately with no wait time, it starts back up and the transmission has power and I can drive ….only so far. Then I need to turn it off and back on.

I haven’t tested it again since last night messing with all the grounds and fuses and checking everything even the main harness to the transmission. The harness was clean and dry and all the pins looked 100%. This is so fricken weird. I first got the code when I went into limp mode out in Stowe VT. That 50 min drive one way to that job site. The excessive crank case pressure and limp mode event. I drove it back the other 30 min or so no problem. Changed all the gaskets, redid the PCV VTA. Moved o2 sensors, etc.

Then I drove it about 30 min one way to do some testing. Did a full pull data log. It had issues of course as I didn’t do the crank relearn yet. No problem driving it out there and driving it back until I was almost home and I ripped on it down the road from my street and it free revved when I was in 3rd going about 50 mph and I thought wtf. And pulled on my street and it was missing and catching. Pull on my driveway and I’m thinking get a log for Brad….but then I couldn’t reverse or go forward….turned it off and back on and drove it in the garage.

So this is a new issue and I’m sort of weirded out by it. Hopefully with all the little things I did last night I can drive it today after work. There’s nothing really obvious. Just I know I moved a ground, replaced a ground bolt with like maybe an aluminum bolt….had that add-a-fuse on one PCM fuse. With all that redone I hope I’m in the clear.
May be a problem with the run/start relay.

The PCM power relay does just that. It supplies power to the PCM. The run/start relay turns the PCM on and off.

1761572796243
 
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