802SHO 2010 Build

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802SHO

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Flash power supply at 13.9 volts actually checks out 14 volts steady with ignition ON. I flashed back to stock with my SCT Device and then tried it. IMG 6325IMG 6326
With my laptop, VCM Editor and @kryptto MPVI3 device it read my stock file 1st try like nothing. IMG 6323IMG 6324
Stock file SENT to Ryan Martin (EMS)


This means I don’t have to choose between nobody. I can flash back to stock with HP and use SCT and vice versa. I also sent HP support info on how their products work….and to watch out for 2010 SHO’s trying to use RTD4 and TDN bc it will never be able to read the stock file that way. One month later chasing my tail led to that 100% confirmation
 

kryptto

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Flash power supply at 13.9 volts actually checks out 14 volts steady with ignition ON. I flashed back to stock with my SCT Device and then tried it. View attachment 95744View attachment 95745
With my laptop, VCM Editor and @kryptto MPVI3 device it read my stock file 1st try like nothing. View attachment 95746View attachment 95747
Stock file SENT to Ryan Martin (EMS)


This means I don’t have to choose between nobody. I can flash back to stock with HP and use SCT and vice versa. I also sent HP support info on how their products work….and to watch out for 2010 SHO’s trying to use RTD4 and TDN bc it will never be able to read the stock file that way. One month later chasing my tail led to that 100% confirmation
you're welcome, glad it worked out my friend! very happy you have options now and more control over remote tuning devices.
 

kryptto

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by the way glad we found that flash power supply too. now wish I bought it... j/k I have not been using my car recently and still need to install the ethanol sensor.
 

kryptto

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Another new road to go down Andrew. Good Luck!

What does that power supply device do?
stable flashing voltage and amps... i had always worried while tuning your cars ignition is on and drawing amps... that said I have always used a tender, BUT it doesnt keep a constant amp/volt - this device does and if I could go back I would of bought those type of tenders with the flash feature over an expensive tender only model. same when I am on FORSCAN too for long periods of time.

Key Features to Look For​



When selecting one of these units for professional-grade ECU programming, consider the following:

FeatureImportance for ProgrammingTypical Range
Output AmperageHigher amperage means it can handle a greater electrical load (more active modules) without dropping the voltage. Crucial for modern vehicles.50A (Minimum for some tasks) up to 100A, 120A, or 150A (Recommended for heavy programming/diagnostics).
Constant Voltage ModeDedicated mode for maintaining a precise, user-selectable voltage (e.g., 13.5V, 14.4V) for the entire programming session.Typically 13.0V to 14.8V (Adjustable).
Clean Power OutputThe power output must have low ripple and noise to avoid corrupting data transmission during the flashing process.Low ripple (professional-grade quality).
ProtectionEssential safety features like over-voltage, over-current, short-circuit, and reverse polarity protection.
 

802SHO

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I talked with Ryan Martin real quick on the phone yesterday around 1pm just to let him know I sent him the stock file in an email not through the TDN network. He said ok good I’ll get on this ASAP. I did not get a base map yesterday so hopefully I get one Monday or Tuesday.

Brad made some changes on his tune and sent me a new tune yesterday. I flashed that and went out. The revolving messages and stuck on traction control light were off. I turned traction control off though. My sending unit (fuel level) is flipped so E is fill and half a tank is E. It was about 1/4 and I’ve been refilling around this time. I’m able to put in about 7 gallons so when my gauge reads 1/4 it’s got about 5 gallons left in it.

Reset OAR. Did a rolling multi gear pull and it shifted on the 2-3 right away and I took it to 3-4 and into 4th a little and let off. I messaged Brad…..whatever you did….keep doing it! Waiting for a response. It sucks Brad is part time tuning but he can and does send tunes over the weekend where Ryan I don’t expect will. So hopefully I get another tune revision from Brad today or tomorrow.

The data log revealed he was able to get the car rpm shift redline to listen, it shifted just barely before 6k rpm 2-3 and took 3rd to 6400 rpm into 4th. No ECU intervention and no hard throttle cut. 18 psi tune and 21 psi boost spike on the hit. All in all not perfect but where it needs to be. Shifting.

I think there was too much going on at once. Trying to tame the built 6F55 at the same time with experimental higher rpm shift points were just too much too soon I think. And the same thing I told Ryan, let’s just let the car rpm be normal until it’s dialed in. Then add some rpm. 6800 or 7000rpm is a destination not the foundation. So it seems keeping the rpm down to a normal limit was easier for the trans to do its thing and torque logic to stay overall happy. To get the higher rpm shifting to stick I think it requires a higher degree of torque logic tuning, a higher degree of understanding. For now the scaling and tables align in its original calibration of around 6200 max. I guess what I’m saying is….if you want to take it to 6800 or 7000….better know the ins and outs bc it’ll require system level recalibration. Which is how that’s playing out in real world experience. Same calibration higher rpm it’s wonky.

I insisted Brad scale the car to a 3.0 load. He was quick to say he’s never seen more than 2.3 or 2.4 load with an SHO so that right there tells me it wasn’t scaled that high. He got technical with info and questions so I did use AI and AI did phrase things for me to say as if it were me….essentially I was choosing which AI written response to respond with that made the convo seem fluent.

Like I said, “Got it — appreciate the explanation. I totally get what you’re saying about Ford’s torque inverse being more of a reference model than a literal torque map, and I agree the key part is that the airflow and quadratics are accurate since fueling looks solid. What I’m trying to smooth out is just that abrupt torque drop on the 2-3 shift. Even if the torque inverse isn’t physically measured, it still ties into the trans torque reduction blending and torque source logic, so having it scaled consistently with the airflow model up to 3.0 load should help the PCM keep the same torque request through the shift. If we can tweak the shift torque reduction or blending a bit after that, I think it’ll eliminate that quick “lift-shift” feel I’m getting while keeping everything else you’ve done intact. I’m really happy with how the fueling and drivability look — I just want to get the shift behavior perfect before we move to higher boost.“

He then shared some insight essentially revealing his frustration with the 6F55 tuning and I used AI to keep him on track.
I said, “Yeah totally understand — the 6F55 definitely has a mind of its own when it comes to shift control. I appreciate you checking on it. If lowering the shift point helps, let’s try that. But if it’s still aggressive or hangs, maybe we can blend a touch less ETC or spark cut during the shift event instead of just relying on the RPM drop. That way it keeps the torque handoff smoother without upsetting the trans logic. I get that it’s touchy, but the car’s clearly making solid power now, so we’re just chasing refinement. I’m confident we’ll get it dialed in.”

And it ended with him saying, “Yup I will scale it to 3.0. The throttle only cut because rpm were too high..that’s my safety net. Weed need rpm to come down we should be able to do that..torque should remain high as long as we get off that rpm limiter. We’ll get it.”

Had to use AI to stay in the conversation but it worked. lol! Whatever it takes!
 

kryptto

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I talked with Ryan Martin real quick on the phone yesterday around 1pm just to let him know I sent him the stock file in an email not through the TDN network. He said ok good I’ll get on this ASAP. I did not get a base map yesterday so hopefully I get one Monday or Tuesday.

Brad made some changes on his tune and sent me a new tune yesterday. I flashed that and went out. The revolving messages and stuck on traction control light were off. I turned traction control off though. My sending unit (fuel level) is flipped so E is fill and half a tank is E. It was about 1/4 and I’ve been refilling around this time. I’m able to put in about 7 gallons so when my gauge reads 1/4 it’s got about 5 gallons left in it.

Reset OAR. Did a rolling multi gear pull and it shifted on the 2-3 right away and I took it to 3-4 and into 4th a little and let off. I messaged Brad…..whatever you did….keep doing it! Waiting for a response. It sucks Brad is part time tuning but he can and does send tunes over the weekend where Ryan I don’t expect will. So hopefully I get another tune revision from Brad today or tomorrow.

The data log revealed he was able to get the car rpm shift redline to listen, it shifted just barely before 6k rpm 2-3 and took 3rd to 6400 rpm into 4th. No ECU intervention and no hard throttle cut. 18 psi tune and 21 psi boost spike on the hit. All in all not perfect but where it needs to be. Shifting.

I think there was too much going on at once. Trying to tame the built 6F55 at the same time with experimental higher rpm shift points were just too much too soon I think. And the same thing I told Ryan, let’s just let the car rpm be normal until it’s dialed in. Then add some rpm. 6800 or 7000rpm is a destination not the foundation. So it seems keeping the rpm down to a normal limit was easier for the trans to do its thing and torque logic to stay overall happy. To get the higher rpm shifting to stick I think it requires a higher degree of torque logic tuning, a higher degree of understanding. For now the scaling and tables align in its original calibration of around 6200 max. I guess what I’m saying is….if you want to take it to 6800 or 7000….better know the ins and outs bc it’ll require system level recalibration. Which is how that’s playing out in real world experience. Same calibration higher rpm it’s wonky.

I insisted Brad scale the car to a 3.0 load. He was quick to say he’s never seen more than 2.3 or 2.4 load with an SHO so that right there tells me it wasn’t scaled that high. He got technical with info and questions so I did use AI and AI did phrase things for me to say as if it were me….essentially I was choosing which AI written response to respond with that made the convo seem fluent.

Like I said, “Got it — appreciate the explanation. I totally get what you’re saying about Ford’s torque inverse being more of a reference model than a literal torque map, and I agree the key part is that the airflow and quadratics are accurate since fueling looks solid. What I’m trying to smooth out is just that abrupt torque drop on the 2-3 shift. Even if the torque inverse isn’t physically measured, it still ties into the trans torque reduction blending and torque source logic, so having it scaled consistently with the airflow model up to 3.0 load should help the PCM keep the same torque request through the shift. If we can tweak the shift torque reduction or blending a bit after that, I think it’ll eliminate that quick “lift-shift” feel I’m getting while keeping everything else you’ve done intact. I’m really happy with how the fueling and drivability look — I just want to get the shift behavior perfect before we move to higher boost.“

He then shared some insight essentially revealing his frustration with the 6F55 tuning and I used AI to keep him on track.
I said, “Yeah totally understand — the 6F55 definitely has a mind of its own when it comes to shift control. I appreciate you checking on it. If lowering the shift point helps, let’s try that. But if it’s still aggressive or hangs, maybe we can blend a touch less ETC or spark cut during the shift event instead of just relying on the RPM drop. That way it keeps the torque handoff smoother without upsetting the trans logic. I get that it’s touchy, but the car’s clearly making solid power now, so we’re just chasing refinement. I’m confident we’ll get it dialed in.”

And it ended with him saying, “Yup I will scale it to 3.0. The throttle only cut because rpm were too high..that’s my safety net. Weed need rpm to come down we should be able to do that..torque should remain high as long as we get off that rpm limiter. We’ll get it.”

Had to use AI to stay in the conversation but it worked. lol! Whatever it takes!
lovin this logic discussion... now you will see what Ryan Martin stumbles on as well. Just my 2 cents... you need to manually clear the PCM between different tuning devices as a precautionary step.
 

kryptto

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so they "FordTech" and ask Brad will suggest when things get buggy do a real KAM reset. the one in the tuners have been known not to clear EVERYTHING. so draining the capacitors by "shorting" them out is the best way to make the computers forget their last settings.
 

802SHO

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So Brads tune the TCM intervened again and I had to do some more critical troubleshooting, retracing steps back to the beginning. The idle rpm change came to mind. I still didn’t find the missing link, I just remembered this and looked into what happens if you change engine idle rpm to a speed density, EcoBoost with torque based logic. It messes up everything …IF there was no crank relearn.
I dug deeper. So aside from it being mandatory for an idle rpm change it’s also mandatory for my billet flex plate and GH TC. I should have done it day 1. With the engine idle rpm change that was the 2nd time it needed to be done. I feel like Brad should have known. But either way what does the absence of a crank relearn do?

1. What a Crank Relearn Actually Does

The Crankshaft Position Relearn (a.k.a. Misfire Profile Correction) teaches the PCM the exact pattern of crankshaft acceleration and deceleration across a full revolution.

The PCM stores that pattern as a “reference fingerprint” for your specific engine setup. It’s used for:

-Misfire detection
-Real-time torque calculation
-Throttle and spark modulation
-Transmission shift torque modeling

When you change the idle speed, cam timing, or engine balance (flywheel/flexplate, crank pulley, etc.), that pattern changes slightly. Without a relearn, the PCM’s assumed pattern is wrong — even though the crank sensor still works fine.


2. Why Changing Idle RPM Requires a Relearn

When idle is raised from, say, 600 → 800 rpm, the crankshaft acceleration profile changes:

-Cylinder firing frequency increases.
-Engine harmonics shift.
-PCM’s torque model (based on the old pattern) becomes offset.

This makes the PCM’s real-time torque estimation inaccurate. And on EcoBoost vehicles (especially the SHO), the transmission and engine talk in torque values — not just RPM or throttle percentage.

So now the PCM thinks the engine is making slightly more or less torque than it is. The torque source logic and torque inverse tables depend on that accuracy.


3. How This Causes Your Symptoms
Once the PCM’s torque model drifts out of sync, it affects:

-Torque Source 4 & 16 events (limiters and shift torque reduction):
-PCM tries to modulate torque during shifts but uses wrong baseline → inconsistent torque truncation → rough, delayed, or aborted WOT shifts.
-Throttle closure at WOT:
-PCM thinks it’s overshooting torque demand → closes throttle to compensate (even though you’re at full pedal).
-Transmission torque tables:
-The trans logic expects X torque during upshift; PCM reports Y torque → torque reduction requests mismatch → erratic shift behavior, clutch pressure errors, or TCC slip.
-Idle & part-throttle drivability:
-Misfire detection logic triggers false counts or fluctuating ignition corrections due to mismatched crank profile.

That’s why my car felt inconsistent — sometimes fine, sometimes chaotic — depending on adaptive trims and environmental factors.
 

802SHO

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Brad has never heard of this so that makes sense he didn’t recommend it, or even talk about it. He’s been changing idle rpm for years ok. This isn’t like something minor this is major. He knows how important matched tire size revolution is for accurate speedometer readings. This trumps that importance. This is something that requires no tune change. Just do the procedure. It brings a high probability that once the crank relearns the actual engine speed revolution everything falls into place. Everything finally synced for the first time.

It’s raining for a few days IMG 6347

And since I have the car on the lift I’m addressing something. The Reactor Products billet flex plate has small bolt holes, Jordan and I had brand new OEM TC bolts that come with 17mm hex heads. I had to grind down the outer diameter of a 17mm socket to fit it inside the bolt holes. We torqued to 35 ft lbs. I’ve been noticed on decel at low speed and low rpm and faint slow chatter and I believe a bolt or two maybe loose on the TC. So I tried torquing one bolt head in particular is starting to round, plus the socket doesn’t want to fully seat unless I grind the entire OD down. So I looked further and this flex plate is designed for ARP bolts that are usually 12mm and I can easily fit a socket over the bolt inside the bolt holes and torque to spec. So I’m going to replace them all with ARP and torque down and that faint chatter sound should go away. Then do the crank relearn and go out and test the same tune.

Well, I’ll be tempted to just use Ryan’s tune of which I’ll need to do the crank relearn with his tune as well. So remember when I was going to try a dealership to flash me a new strategy and attempt read my stock file with the RTD4 and TDN app…..but my intuition kicked in to say….bro you’ll likely end up stranded….but remember how I said Ryan said give him a call and he’ll send me a base map so I can drive home from the dealer? Well he’s had my stock tune for all day Friday and all day Monday, not including the weekend. All I can think of is if 48 hours isn’t enough time….16 business hours isn’t enough time to make me a base map….well son of a bitch I’d have been totally ****** if I had called and waited for base map leave a dealership. I think it’s weird the full time tuner didn’t come up with a base map for me in 2 full business days.
 

802SHO

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Hopefully it’s related to really taking time to set the base map up really good with knowing I’m not in the predicament of needing one asap to drive home…more so than he’s just busy with other tunes and hasn’t gotten to me yet. Still it seems odd to me. Every other hour I’m looking to see, did he send my base map? No. No. No. …..nope.. no….smh…nope….no….lmfao at this point I’ll stop checking
 

kryptto

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hey Andrew glad you reach out from time to time, honored to get the inside story. been a pleasure watching your experiences, pain and all since you have by all means a custom super car and watching her come alive has been a roller coaster for sure.

that said everything has a reason and a purpose. you most def would of had to tow the car back after a dealership appt. shame when peeps over promise and under-deliver. now I am gonna flash to stock, clear PCM, flash back and perform a crank relearn.
 

802SHO

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Wow look at the OEM TC bolt. I thought maybe I had to modify the bolt head as well and I did. Also the Reactor Products billet flex plate is supposed to use washers and we did not. All kinds of wrong here getting done right. Image
I used AI to find a replacement ARP bolt. These are M10x1.5. It told me I’d need custom ARP bolts made or use a set 230-7304 sold in 3, so I’d need two sets bc I need 4 bolts to use some that were close enough right….so I went to search them and on Summit I saw another listing for ARP….I told AI that part number and it said….100% match…so then why didn’t it recommend these that are sold in a set of 6 smfh.

ARP 230-7305 - ARP Torque Converter Bolts On the way​

 

802SHO

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Changing out one more thing real quick. I’ve been seeing idle vacuum at 22, a bit more than OEM that usually hovers at 19, 17-19. My TIAL Q 50mm BOV 10 psi spring is not sufficient it likely bled a little at WOT, so 18 psi boost probably 17 in the intake manifold. A 12 psi spring is needed for 22-24 vacuum so that will remain solidly closed during a pull and I’ll get all of the commanded boost.

I had that overnighted so tomorrow I install the ARP TC bolts, the 12 psi BOV spring and do the crank relearn. I’m excited to find out how much different it feels when the engine and transmission are finally synced. Might have to wait until Friday’s weather but this weekend should be good!
 

802SHO

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ARP Bolts are a direct fit. 12 psi BOV spring has thicker wire and is a little shorter than the 10 psi spring. With the 12 psi spring it’ll hold all the pressure in, one thing I haven’t felt is that pressure release you get when the BOV’s open. My exhaust is loud so I don’t hear it or feel it. Had 22 vacuum idle too. Kind of lazy boost handoff on shifts….really seems like it must have been leaking. IMG 6355
Forgot I also have a 3 bolt but these come in a pack of 6. OEM get torqued to 35 ft lbs so I used blue (medium) strength loctite and torqued to 45 ft lbs and made a mark so when I check some time later to see if the’ve backed out.

IMG 6356
Tomorrow is crank relearn. Should be good
 

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