60k tune up parts list

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jraines

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I am ordering all the stuff tomorrow for the 60k tune.
Considering this, what all should be ordered.

Heres what I plan on getting.

3.0 Timing belt( I think this is the only one I need, right?)
Spark plugs
Plug wires
Oil filter, I read somewhere to get the FL-1A instead, anyone?
Oil,
the water pump is new, so I dont think I'll replace it.

Is there anything else I should order, plus is there any suggestions on any thing listed? I stopped by my dealership Saturday, and was told the timing belt is discontinued. We will try vintage ford tomorrow.
Again, any suggestions for the tune would be helpful.
Jaime
 

jraines

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ive also been told a time or two that I should go ahead and get timing belt tensioner pulley and maybe idler pulley.

anyone have an opinion
 

sdpatt

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You said "60K," but you didn't mention the valve gap adjustment. That is a set of tools and shims. If removing the intake, you will likely need the intake manifold gaskets (metal shim-type gaskets between the intake and the heads, Fel-Pro MS94381, AutoZone/AutoZone.com $32.99). If removing the valve covers then a set of the valve cover and plug well seals are in order (Fel-Pro VS50378R, AutoZone/AutoZone.com $71.99). If replacing the timing belt (Gates T248, RockAuto $35.99 or equivalent), you should replace the serpentine belts (Gates K040500 and K060445 RockAuto $12.74 and $13.85 or equivalent) and the front main crankshaft oil seal (called timing cover seal in some catalogs, National 710220, RockAuto $6.75 ). How old is the crankshaft position sensor (Wells SU242, AutoZone/AutoZone.com $56.99)?

I am in the process of doing my "upper 60K" for the 6th time on my 344,000 mile SHO. The cam lobes look great and only one shim was out of spec on the tight side (I gap to the low end of the range). I will be replacing the intake coupler hoses in the morning and putting it back together.
 

jraines

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the more questions I ask, the more things I should do.
well, my shelves in the garage will just keep piling up parts I guess.
Jaime
 

Commish56

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i plan on doing all the 60k stuff plus alittle more due to leaking oil in the rear of engine and also that time 127,*** miles. Water pump.serpentine belt were already done and just passed emissions so dont think i need O2 sensors. I also have tons of other work into her. Dealer told me gaskets and seals were leaking but couldnt tell me all of them til they get in there so i figured i just get the whole gasket set from RCM both upper and lower. I also need tranny screen and oil pan gasket. I am also gonna get the ford cam seals due to some problems i have read about with the fel-pro ones. But just one question regarding the valve shim adjustment,is this something i could do myself or would it not cost that much to get them to do it.I would hate not to do this while other things are getting done regarding 60k.There is also a little a litttle tapping sound also and i have read that could mean i need it. :thankyou:

ny suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated!
also if anyone knows of a good SHO mechanic in northeast pa would be GREAT
Could this be done by someone who is not so mechanically enclined.
 
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itwonder

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I strongly suggest you follow sdpatt's advice above. There is no need to replace the coil pack if it is not giving trouble. Many parts such as the sensors and plug wires will go far longer than 60K miles, but it's good to replace them now to establish a baseline. IMHO, unless you drive the heck out of your car, the front 60K can easily be lengthened to 100K once you 've established a baseline. The top 60K should be done on the 60K schedule.

One exception I'l take is please avoid use of Felpro, National, or Timken seals for the radial oil seal applications: front crank, rear main, and camshaft seals. Having just gone through this, I've concluded they simply do not fit well and the potential for trouble is certainly not worth using them. The Ford factory seals are readily available, and construction is superior. Shipping cost considered, the Ford seals cost little more than those lousy aftermarket brands. The aftermarket seals for valve covers and intake are fine. If you have an oil leak atthe rear of the engine, it is likely the rear main oil seal and you'll have to live with it until there is some reason to drop the transmission out of it. FL-400S oil filter is fine, and cheap at Walmart.
 

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