3D printed parts

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

It's been an adventure but I finally have my gauges in, I yet again played with the design and hatched a simplified version that's easier to wrap and I'm going to rock it for a while until I dream something else up, my finish work is a little rough but I ran short on time after some wiring hiccups.

But here's the latest pod I'm dubbing the Stealth pod. Low profile like the last one, no visor, rounded edges, flat top and sides. In it's bare form it would work nicely in the car, all but the picture in the car are straight off the printer, zero finishing.





Plus a little teaser of something else that's in the testing phase

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Testing a new design for the noise maker delete. The old one melted, but not from heat. I hit the edges with brake cleaner to see if there was a leak. Good news, no leak, bad news, abs doesn't like brake cleaner. This one is a dense design with reinforced areas around the clip. Once I have a successful test it will be available for purchase

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Noise maker plug testing is going great, I can only guess I had a leaky noise maker because throttle response is noticeably better and the cabin is quieter. throwing some more ideas in the mix I came up with this. thinking about trying my hand at the fender vent. I spent most of the time on the bull head which can be isolated and just adhered to the side of the car.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

The Noise Maker Delete Plug has survived the torture test. 1 full week of hard driving, I anticipated some pulls to test it but there was a lot of WOT this week. 4 hour cruise on Monday and commuting the rest of the week my 30 miles each way. If i had to guess i racked up about 400 miles this week, half of which was wot or stop and go. It shows no signs of warping, cracking, or deformation of any sort. I experienced no signs of leaks throughout the rpm range, it would seem my noise maker was leaking because the plug seemed to eliminate top end rpm flutter. PM or email me for details
[email protected]

 

[BlindAssassin111]

The Noise Maker Delete Plug has survived the torture test. 1 full week of hard driving, I anticipated some pulls to test it but there was a lot of WOT this week. 4 hour cruise on Monday and commuting the rest of the week my 30 miles each way. If i had to guess i racked up about 400 miles this week, half of which was wot or stop and go. It shows no signs of warping, cracking, or deformation of any sort. I experienced no signs of leaks throughout the rpm range, it would seem my noise maker was leaking because the plug seemed to eliminate top end rpm flutter. PM or email me for details
[email protected]

Have you tried to do some acetone vapor smoothing on the plug? Given it is ABS it will actually melt the material and create a glossy, smooth, and solid outside layer to help with making it air tight and increase longevity. We used fully 3D printed intakes when I was on a Formula SAE team and this method took seconds (just heated a *** of acetone w/lid, suspended the part in the vapor for up to 10 seconds and removed immediately to let dry and solidify) and it would stand up to the abuse of racing for years (including the rare backfire through the intake). I only mention because I would be a bit worried with long term use without at least some treatment to prevent delamination of the layers.

 

[kryptto]

Have you tried to do some acetone vapor smoothing on the plug? Given it is ABS it will actually melt the material and create a glossy, smooth, and solid outside layer to help with making it air tight and increase longevity. We used fully 3D printed intakes when I was on a Formula SAE team and this method took seconds (just heated a *** of acetone w/lid, suspended the part in the vapor for up to 10 seconds and removed immediately to let dry and solidify) and it would stand up to the abuse of racing for years (including the rare backfire through the intake). I only mention because I would be a bit worried with long term use without at least some treatment to prevent delamination of the layers.

I truly enjoy learning so much from such a talented group with diverse backgrounds.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Have you tried to do some acetone vapor smoothing on the plug? Given it is ABS it will actually melt the material and create a glossy, smooth, and solid outside layer to help with making it air tight and increase longevity. We used fully 3D printed intakes when I was on a Formula SAE team and this method took seconds (just heated a *** of acetone w/lid, suspended the part in the vapor for up to 10 seconds and removed immediately to let dry and solidify) and it would stand up to the abuse of racing for years (including the rare backfire through the intake). I only mention because I would be a bit worried with long term use without at least some treatment to prevent delamination of the layers.

I have "accidentally" experimented with acetone smoothing in the form of brake cleaner. I have not done it intentionally yet, BUT I have found that sanding it with 5 layers provides enough to run it up to 3000 grit and it comes out completely smooth. The pictured plug in the previous post while still in use on my personal car is not the finished part. Now that I have the sanding down they will come in bare form like this:


Almost all of the lines are gone. That said I have been curious and always willing to try new methods so I will definitely give the acetone a try. You mentioned vapor but every thing I read on has people smoothing with a rag

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

I truly enjoy learning so much from such a talented group with diverse backgrounds.

Same here, I have applied so much I've learned from this forum into the printing alone. Never mind everything I've learned for my car. Constructive social media

 

[BlindAssassin111]

You mentioned vapor but every thing I read on has people smoothing with a rag

The vapor method is nice because it gets in areas you aren't likely to reach with a rag. Most of our intake parts had internal surfaces that weren't possible to wipe by hand and the vapor method smooths it all at once, no problem. We just used a simple hot plate and p o t (why is that a censored word? lol) with a glass lid, no crazy setup (just don't breath the vapor in lol). Let the vapor fill the air space and quickly place suspended part in there and be ready to remove fast as the smaller the part, the faster it will be ready. Sadly don't have a picture of just the intake from one of the cars, but they were nice in person I can say that much.

 

[kryptto]

What are the chances you'll post the STL files to the public?

Love first time posters looking to take advantage of the hard work or others. I am not the OP, however the answer is no. @Junkyard_Mad-Scientist

 

[ForcedAccountsBad]

Love first time posters looking to take advantage of the hard work or others. I am not the OP, however the answer is no. @Junkyard_Mad-Scientist

Sorry, it wasn't my intent to try and take advantage of anyone I was just curious.

If files won't be made available will it be available for purchase somewhere? I know it was mentioned and saw someone had bought it, I was just interested in getting my hands on one

 

[kryptto]

Sorry, it wasn't my intent to try and take advantage of anyone I was just curious.

If files won't be made available will it be available for purchase somewhere? I know it was mentioned and saw someone had bought it, I was just interested in getting my hands on one

Contact @Junkyard_Mad-Scientist - it is the holiday weekend and he will respond ASAP. All good but we have seen our share of new accounts try and sell people items or buy items etc without paying. All good, but based on the new creation of your account was my judgement made.

JMS, is selling all his ideations for IMHO fair pricing.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

I currently have 3 styles of gauge pods available for ordering and another one in the works. I also have the noise maker delete plug, center console tray insert, cup holder insert, washer resivoir cap, and grille badge reproduction. Any and all can be customized in any way as well as one off pieces I am willing to collaborate on. I won't sell the files because these will be available on a couple sites in the next few months however I will knock a percentage off for forum members that contact me directly.

For forum members base prices are as follows
Gauge Pod $100
Noise maker delete plug $30
Console tray $30
Cup holder insert $15
Washer reservoir cap $20
Badge reproduction $30

This does not include any primer or other finishing coats and customization may add a little to the final cost. Shipping to the lower 48 is a flat $15. Feel free to message me or email me at [email protected]

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Still making parts and coming out with new stuff, reluctantly put it out on Facebook but I wanted to get the word out there. Here's a couple one offs I did with some help from the wife. Epoxy really sets everything to the next level. She got into it and has been having fun elevating my prints. I printed the fob cover and grille plaque, did 2 styles for the plaque and left pass-through holes on the back for zip ties. Fob cover i got a little loose with the paint marker but it was trash otherwise so i experimented

 

[kryptto]

What are you using for the fob cover?

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

What are you using for the fob cover?

ABS and then painted it with metallic paint marker, then the epoxy was mixed with green dye and silver flake. Hard to see but it has a green tint to it with a metallic like finish (glittery). I just drizzled it over the cover and dremeled away the excess.

 

[kryptto]

ABS and then painted it with metallic paint marker, then the epoxy was mixed with green dye and silver flake. Hard to see but it has a green tint to it with a metallic like finish (glittery). I just drizzled it over the cover and dremeled away the excess.

Interesting process

 

[SnuffyTheSeal]

@Junkyard_Mad-Scientist in this picture you can see the pass through holes for the center speaker View attachment 90190

That looks fantastic. I know a company was making them for a time but never had a chance to get my hands on one. I've got quite a few plans once winter breaks and I'd like to add those to the list. Will definitely be keeping an eye on this thread if these become something available again. How did you run the wiring for the pods? I've never wired one up.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

@SnuffyTheSeal not a fun process, theres a small area on the drivers side firewall above the brake booster i drilled through, pulled the ignition button trim and drilled a hole under the speaker grille, carefully rooted the wire around until I could see it where the ignition button goes, pulled it over to the left kick panel where I tapped for keyed power, added a relay and ran the rest out the fire wall. Under the hood I had a power line from the battery to the relay under the dash, and signal wires to the boost gauge and future oil pressure gauge. The boost sensor died (cheap gauge) so I ended up pulling the pod back out, but the relay is still there and runs my dash cam so I'm pre-wired for when I get a decent set of gauges.

All of that said. Everything you see here is available and more in development, the only thing I discontinued was the original gauge pod, it's profile was very tall in the car so I cut about an inch and a half off the overall height. I currently have 2 styles available and a 3rd more familiar style in the works. Message me or email me when you're ready, if you email me just make sure you mention you're a forum member to get the discount.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Thought I'd throw out the latest design I made for me. I kept misplacing my obd reader, always fell to the bottom of the console or ended up in the door (these cars have enough battery problems without me trusting it'll shut off leaving it plugged in) so I made a solution. Holds it nice n snug and keeps it protected, still room for pens and whatnot, says SHO on the bottom, came out nice.