3.3 build help

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hawxby06

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I am currently planning to build a 3.3 and im wondering what I will need for a head gasket? Can I use a 3.2 gasket or do I need a custom one??
 

Irish Pride

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3.3 will require 3.2 head gaskets but good luck trying to find some. I bought the last two Felpro 3.2 gaskets back in 2012 and was lucky enough to find another two this summer from a member here. I'm sure they are out there but you really need to search for them.
 

broke1

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Cometic will make you whatever gasket you want,no minimum order required....
 

jayro

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If you pay for tooling!

We are working on 3.2 head gaskets which will work for the 3.3.

So back when I was looking at a rebuild my research showed that the limiting factor for punching out the 3.2 was the head gasket. The furthest you could go was 3.3 (3.26 actually). If you are working on a custom head gasket, would it open up the possibility of going further with the cylinder bore? Are the cylinder walls thick enough on a 3.2 block to allow you to go past the 3.26 mark? Just curious really.
 

luigisho

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The old sho shop test mules info has probably been lost in the server crash. I think they pushed to 3.4 or even 3.6 but I think there were wall thickness issues and maybe custom ground crank failures. I bet Josh at sho nut remembers. Probably Hrisnson too as he researched enough before doing his 3.3. He's moved on from here, but he would reply to questions if you reach him. His info should be in his profile here somewhere. I would also look for Nick Chrimes on the v6 sho yahoo group as he was heavy into SHO's that far back.
 

AREA 91

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The old SHO SHOP builds required wet sleeving the block and offset grinding the crankshaft.
Both of these are expensive options.
 

broke1

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Sleeving the block=expensive

Offset grinding a crank=cheap

You could always have the machine shop doing the work SONIC check the wall thickness.

If the Yamaha v6 is like other engines,some blocks will go further than others.
 

luigisho

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Not sure but I think webbing and thickness differed in the later blocks after the 3.2 was produced IIRC.

Like I said, Josh or John might have more specifics about cylinder wall thickness and such. Maybe kirk or Doug has more info too. Only a handful were experimenting or looking into that much work.
 

LOUDSHO92

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From what I understand the most you can safely get out of the engine if a 3.3. Anything beyond that and the walls are too thin.

The 3.2 was a sleeved engine and didn't last long.

The 3.6 was an offset grind but the revs were turned down to hold up. I do have the information on custom 3.6 cranks.
 

broke1

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That's why you would want to sonic check....

A 3.0 might just have thicker walls than a 3.2....I'll bet they have the same wall thickness but u never know.

What rods/pistons do you run with the 3.6? How much is the stock crank offset ground and what is the final stroke?

Installing sleeves has come a long way since Vadim.

Everything I've heard about ShoShop and Vadim says he was a HACK so I'm not surprised the engines had trouble. He probably used the cheapest machinist he could find....

Anyone know that Vadim was into Mercedes after being run off from SHO's? He had a shop called VRP.....

His "shop" ended up having a fire and destroying several Benz's when unhappy customers started with the complaints/law suits. Vadim blamed it on unhappy customers but many said it was INS fraud.....

Now he works at a BMW dealer(or some euro car dealership) as a service writer.
 

LOUDSHO92

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The 3.0 can just barely handle a 3.2 bore.

The 3.6 runs 3.2 pistons and stock rods, not sure on offset.

I am sure someone can do it for the right price.

Yeah he was into the Euro cars.
 

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