3.2 swap check

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Sho_Freak

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well today i went to do a front 60k on my newly boughten 93mtx(bought it not running, thought it was CID from what he described), and finding that crank cancer unchecked=no good crank, ive decided on a 3.2 swap. and from my searching i have come up with parts and things i need to do....
3.0 parts to 3.2:
oil pan (gonna use the 3.2 pump, but oil pan swap isnt needed)
timing belt tensioner pulley, stud, and pin
waterpump/pulley
crank pulley
timing cover set
idler pulleys and brackets
ps pump/rear motor mount bracket
alternator/ac compressor/front motor mount bracket
alternator
exhaust manifolds
intake manifold
wiring harness

work to 3.2
front head cutting for alternator to fit

maintenence:
already got all front 60k stuff
top 60k(prob do after motor is in the car)
rod bearings
rear main seal
gaskets/other random small stuff like that

other stuff to get:
flywheel (prob get a fidanza)
clutch/pp/tob (guessing this all needs to be new?)
AL SFB's
new motor mounts.
this look good or is there anything im missing?

thanks guys
Adam M
 
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jayro

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Sounds like you have it planned out pretty well. One thought is to swap over the heads from the 3.0 to the 3.2 block. That way you dont have to modify the head and you get the 3.0 cams. You could just swap over the cams if you dont want to mess with the head swap.

Jeremy
 

lowc

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you dont need to swap oil pans the 32 works fine no fitment issues other than that looks like youve got it all covered

i would just swap the cams the head isnt a big deal to cut just make sure you do it on the stand i ended up trimming off some or the alt. bolt as well so i didnt cut to far into the head
 
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rubydist

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the only other thing you need is to move the engine wiring harness from the 3.0 to the 'new' 3.2.
 

Sho_Freak

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so no need for the oil pan change....sweet since the 3.0 is still in the car, and i forgot to put the wiring harness in the list....added! and im not gonna do the cams quite yet.....not even sure if the heads on the 3.0 are good..... prob do cam swap when i do top 60k

and when i do rod bearings on the 3.2, if i drain the oil its ok to spin it upside down on the engine stand right?

found an 80k 3.2 for $450 thanks to a buddy! pretty stoked!
 
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lowc

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yea you will be fine spining the motor the bearings will still have an oil glaze the only thing about the 3.2 pan is it doesnt have the exhaust hanger on it but you should be fine
 

Sho_Freak

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ok awesome, and one more little thing..... when doing the timing belt, for the crank pulley do i use the 3.0 or 3.2 marks on the belt? guessing 3.2?
 

rubydist

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and when i do rod bearings on the 3.2, if i drain the oil its ok to spin it upside down on the engine stand right?

when doing the timing belt, for the crank pulley do i use the 3.0 or 3.2 marks on the belt? guessing 3.2?

you will want to put assembly **** on the bearings when you put them in - I use STP for that. it will be fine to rotate it by hand.

which timing mark you use depends on which accessories you have on the engine - if you use the 3.2 timing belt setup w/ the second idler and use the single belt accessory drive, then you need to use 3.2 timing marks. otherwise, you need to use the 3.0 timing marks.
 

Sho_Freak

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i might not have asked my question clearly enough.. im talkin about rotating the block upside down on the engine stand, so the oil pan is on the top, valve covers pointing down, making it a ton easier to do rod bearings.
 

rubydist

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oh, yes you can do that, but pull the pan off first, so all the crud that has collected there is not dumped all over the crank right when you want to start working on it....
 

Sho_Freak

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oh, yes you can do that, but pull the pan off first, so all the crud that has collected there is not dumped all over the crank right when you want to start working on it....

ok good, i was plannin on droppin the pan first as well. that should be about it...
thanks
Adam M
 

jon93

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you will want to put assembly **** on the bearings when you put them in - I use STP for that. it will be fine to rotate it by hand.

which timing mark you use depends on which accessories you have on the engine - if you use the 3.2 timing belt setup w/ the second idler and use the single belt accessory drive, then you need to use 3.2 timing marks. otherwise, you need to use the 3.0 timing marks.

Don't over complicate it for the guy. Rarely do people go the hard route of using the 3.2 timing and accessories on an mtx and fabricating custom motor mounts. I have only heard of keeping the 3.2 accessories in ATX-> MTX swaps and even then it's a lot easier to swap the correct mtx sub frame in.
 

Sho_Freak

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well got the new 3.2 on the stand in the garage today, first thing i checked, no crank cancer! this thing is in great shape too! ill be getting to work on her this week!
front 60k first, rod bearing when i get the stuff,
then the rest when i get the stuff!

also, when i put the crank key back in, should i use loctite or anything on it? if so which loctite?
 
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zak

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Valve seals - particularly if you are already removing the cams.
 

Sho_Freak

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I decided I might as well do the 3.0 intake cams and top 60k while the motor is on stand... Hopefully the cam swap isn't too hard!

edit, 3.0 cams in, it actually was pretty easy....
 
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Sho_Freak

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ok, one question i couldnt find in my searches.... can i have the timing covers, timing belt cam sprocket stuff on before i put the front/rear motor mount brackets on? or do those have to go on after the mount stuff? if they can be on it will help me out a little bit...
 

jonheese

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I'm pretty sure the timing covers don't interfere with the installation of the motor mount brackets, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

I know for sure that the cam sprockets can be installed before the motor mount brackets, because I did them in that order on my 3.2 swap engine.
 

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